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Art & Soul…

by LOUISE HARRISON

Monaco may be small in size, but one could never say that it is small in its offering of culture and the arts. Home to the Opera de Monte-Carlo & Ballet companies and with a myriad of galleries featuring everything from old masters to Warhol, there is certainly plenty on offer.

As to the local art scene, the Mediterranean has always been a draw for artists young and old alike, with its brilliant light and landscape offering more inspiration than you can shake a paintbrush at. And of course, apart from the offerings in our immediate vicinity, there are museums not far away in Nice and Antibes celebrating the likes of Picasso and Chagall, not to mention the ‘artist’s village’ of Saint-Paul De Vence, also just a car ride away…

But back to Monaco,…which is home to many an artist itself…

Monaco and surrounding Beausoleil (the quarter of town just over the French border) hosts a healthy community of artists, and as one can imagine with such an invigorating mix of cultures, internationalism and the colours of the surroundings in which we find ourselves, their output is simply stunning. Furthermore, perhaps due in part to our proximity to Italy and Biot (the Provençal town famous for its glass works) a surprising amount of contemporary glass and metal sculptures can be found alongside paintings in the galleries bordering the main port, Boulevard des Moulins, and around the casino area. Although some priceless (almost!) and famous works can be spotted around the principality (hint: take a walk through the Sporting d’Hiver building..!)

Artistically-inclined tourists visiting the principality can also pick up original, vibrant works at prices much the same as those found in the counterpart galleries of other European capitals.

Case in point:  with swirls in her works reminiscent of Van Gogh but with a Monet-like sweetness of colours that are infinitely more easy on the eye, ‘SOUL SHAPES‘ is both the name and a fitting description for the current exhibition by one of our young and vibrant Monaco-based artists: Janne Ricketts.

A product herself of this international and exotic environment, Janne Ricketts’ work was never going to be run of the mill. Scottish-German by decent, Janne’s influences are as far reaching as the places she experienced in her well-travelled youth, and even today she works in Monaco, as well as Berlin & Bavaria.

Well-known in the area not only for her paintings, but also for her frescos and mixed-media work, Janne utilises paints, resin, plexiglass, wood, and photography in her works. Her ‘SOUL SHAPES’ exhibition is an exploration by the artist of the world within, and tries to identify the soul in all things…and via a varied collection of art work (paintings, graphics and mixed media) she asks the eternal question…what does the soul look like?  Perhaps it’s best to go and see for yourself.. :)

Twenty-five pieces of Janne’s work can currently be found gracing the walls of the Société Générale bank in Monte Carlo,…(hurry as you only have until February 10th to see the exhibition!!)

Better yet, if you feel like having one of these gems on your wall, there’s another plus…a portion of all sales are donated to the Haitian relief charity “MONACO COLLECTIF HAITI“  and local charity – “JEUNE J’ÉCOUTE” – (an association that supports young people suffering from hardship, founded by HRH Princess Caroline of Hanover. )

So, culture vultures…go and douse yourselves in some art!

‘SOUL SHAPES’ is on now, and ends: February 10th, 2010

(The artist will generally be around  the exhibition between 13:30 – 14:30 every day.)

Location:

SOCIÉTÉ GÉNÉRALE BANK, PALAIS DE LA SCALA, 16 Ave de la Costa <> 1 ave Henry Dunant, (next to Red Cross & the HERMITAGE), MONTE CARLO, MONACO

VIRTUAL SOUL SHAPES SHOW TILL FEB 10TH >  http://go.meebo.com/jannericketts.com/7

Official website :    http://jannericketts.com

Feb 01, 2010 | Categories: Art, Culture, Events, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

All The Fun Of The Fair!

Monaco's Winter Fair

Monaco's Winter Fun Fair!

By LOUISE HARRISON

The pedestrian area above Port Hercules in Monaco has to be one of the most efficiently used spaces in urban history…apparently in use 160 days a year, Monaco sees every kind of fair, expo, the grand prix, equestrian events and even the yacht show take over this space each year for a calendar of events that always gives residents and visitors alike something to look forward to…

This month is no exception…the Monaco Winter fun fair is in town.

Spanning back years, and coinciding with the national Monaco day, the fair is your usual affair (ouch) of doughnuts stands, rides and rollercoasters, even down to those annoying claw things that never grab the soft toys (how do they work? Answers on a postcard to…) You can try your luck on the shooting range, slides, football challenges or tombola (warning – you may win an enormous soft toy – I’ve seen enough sheepish looking men carrying them home in recent years to know!)

This year, the fairground seems brighter and more brilliant than ever…as usual one can fill up with all kinds of delightful (although admittedly non- lo-cal!) foods. Being a Mediterranean fair, there are fine sandwiches and charcuterie to be found alongside the more hum-drum toffee apples, and if one is still keen to test one’s stomach after overdosing on churros (special crispy doughnut sticks) with chocolate sauce (oh god, the temptation!), the port  is home each year to ever more exciting (nausea-inducing?) rides. This year one can be spun around mid air on something that looks like a crane crossed with a Broadway billboard or even sit in a ball-like cage with bungee ropes attached and be flung hundreds of feet in the air, …yes, you too can learn what it feels like to be a piece of maize in a popcorn machine!

Seriously though, the fair is exceptionally entertaining, and has something for everyone. It looks exceptionally attractive at a time of year when everyone is suffering from the darker nights, plus it is kind of heartening that no matter where you are in the world, there is still very little that makes a small child happier than hooking a duck and winning a goldfish,..it never get’s old..

So make the most of it whilst you can folks! The fair is open every weeknight and at weekends until about a week after the national holiday on November 19th, and of course, once the fun fair packs up, the Christmas market won’t be far behind… and if you happen to be in one of those spinning space cars and see an English-looking brunette passing by, please don’t drop your candyfloss on her. Thank you.

Nov 05, 2009 | Categories: Events, Nightlife, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , | Leave A Comment »

Monaco’s New Legend

Black Legend

Black Legend

By LOUISE HARRISON

You’d be mistaken for thinking that winter is the dead season in Monaco. The harbour isn’t jam-packed with mega yachts as it is in the height of the summer, visitors in huge sunglasses no longer fill the terraces & loungers, and the sun terraces themselves have been packed away for the cold season.

But as I said before, you’d be mistaken…

As all good Monaco residents know, the winter party season can be one of the most stimulating times of the year, with different events, shows, art openings and theme parties filling the calendar. This coming week is no exception, and sees the grand opening of a brand new venue in Monaco. I say ‘venue’, as pigeonholing this particular establishment is no easy task.

Black Legend is a new nightclub, bar, restaurant, lounge & live music venue, and is the latest venture to join the renaissance of Port Hercules in Monaco. Conceived and realised by Antoine Chevanne, the director of Groupe Floirat, Black Legend has an impressive pedigree from the outset, coming from the same stable as St Tropez’s Les Caves du Roy & Byblos. Chevanne’s business vision includes the likes of chic clubs and exclusive luxury hotels, however Black Legend has quite a different theme than the Caves du Roy’s sumptuous Mediterranean after-sun clubbing.

Chevanne is passionate about great music, more specifically the kind of soul, funk, disco and R&B that came out of the likes of Motown in the US of the 1970’s. Keen to capitalise on the universal appeal of this music and to recapture the authenticity of this era, Chevanne has hired live musicians to recreate the atmosphere, and the interiors of the club itself have been meticulously designed to mimic the era, down to adding original 70’s spotlight elements to the modern lighting rigs. And let’s not forget the glowing dance floor – guests will feel like they have arrived in a chic 1970’s disco party (think Saturday Night Fever, Shaft) and can give their platform boots or Jimmy Choo’s a good work out until 5am every morning. The notoriously fickle Monaco crowd won’t have time to get bored with varied musical offerings planned right throughout the season, and DJs will follow the bands with more funky music into the early hours of every morning.

In addition to all of the entertainment being laid on, hungry visitors will not be disappointed either – the brasserie will serve a mixture of healthy Mediterranean and all-American cuisine with a ‘Byblos’ twist, and the daytime clientele will also be welcomed from 12:30 onwards every day to try out the lunchtime menus (one of our favourite pastimes in Monaco) not to mention early evening aperitifs.

One has to think that all of this will be a great addition to the selection of bars and restaurants we have here…a few years back, Jimmy’z or Sass café were the only places to go after the bars closed,.. it’s always nice to have an alternative, especially one so central.

So this coming Halloween (31st October 2009) is the night to dust off your flares, and get on down to Monaco’s groovy new nitespot. See you on the flipside folks…

Oct 29, 2009 | Categories: Bars & Restaurants, Clubbing, Events, Nightlife, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

The Kitsch, The Cool & The Laid Back

The Quireboys at 'Moods'

The Quireboys at 'Moods'

By LOUISE HARRISON

It was just one of those nights, as the song says…a typical early winter evening in Monaco.

And what’s a girl to do here on a slightly chilly Saturday night?

Well, fortunately, we don’t tend to be short of things to do in this town, but sometimes the sheer variation of events in a such a small vicinity is one of the things that can surprise even the most party-hardened resident…for example, in how many towns can you have a crazy Bavarian night out, followed by a visit to a wild rock concert and then quaff a mellow after hour’s drink or two in a cosy pub…all on the same night, without walking more than a couple of minutes between venues?

On this particular Saturday just past, I was sitting at the table, damning the fact that I hadn’t donned my dirndl (yes, I have one…don’t ask). Monaco like its big sister Munich (which is incidentally also called ‘Monaco’ by our Italian friends, frequently causing confusion) has an Oktoberfest, hosted each year at the Cafe de Paris. This was my first port of call on Saturday night, having missed the festival the previous year. Running from the 16th – 25th of October this year, (but back on the casino square every year,) the festival is crammed with traditional food, yodelling, beer, dancing and polka music belted out by a lederhosen-clad band. You’d be forgiven for thinking this could be a kitsch alpine-style hell, but whilst the repetitive calls for beer toasts get mildly irritating after you’ve heard them a fifth or sixth time, the food is unarguably tasty, and the entertainment, whilst a trifle cheesy, is terrific fun. (I did chicken out of the spontaneous conga – forgive me, even I have my limits!)

Once the blonde beer had been quaffed and the delicious strudel had been finally packed into an already over-stuffed British stomach, it was bye-bye Bavaria, hello Moods…

Moods has to be one of my favourite venues in Monaco. The live music bar might be overlooked by the uninitiated, nestling as it does at the back of the Cafe de Paris, just off the Casino Square. But, dear visitor, overlook it at your peril. Not only does the cavernous underground venue look terrific, but the musical offerings, which are for the most part free of a cover charge (except during festivals and the like) are absolutely top notch.

This week saw the veteran English rockers ‘The Quireboys‘ take to the stage (although equally it could be a jazz, funk, or pop act gracing the boards, depending on the night you choose to visit). On this particular Saturday night, the place was packed to the gills with eager fans and rock initiates alike, with the normally reticent Monaco crowd on their feet singing along, demanding several encores with stomping feet. And being good hosts, not only did we girls jump up and down a lot and offer lots of encouragement, but we took the band for a bevvy afterwards, once Moods had closed.

The next port of call was, (where else with a rock band in tow?) McCarthy’s Irish pub. We know that every town has an Irish pub (Dublin, apparently has several..) but ours, we feel, is a particularly good one. Homey, warm, and with wee pizzas as addictive as illegal substances, McCarthy’s has a convivial atmosphere, a fine collection of Irish whiskeys, and the best pint of Guinness in town.

So there we have it…the kitsch, the cool and the laid back, from the sublime to the ridiculous (or perhaps that should be in reverse order) in a single evening. (Rock and ) roll on next weekend!

Oct 26, 2009 | Categories: Bars & Restaurants, Concerts, Events, Nightlife, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

Solid as a Rock…

Le Rocher, Monaco

Le Rocher, Monaco

BY LOUISE HARRISON

I feel sorry for so many of the tourists who turn up for an afternoon or day trip to Monaco, thinking that they’ve seen everything once having set foot on the Grand Prix track, or taken a peek at the Casino. (I feel even sorrier for the poor guys I found on a local Monaco bus a few weeks ago, riding around and around looking for the port of Nice, but let’s not go there… yes, I did tell them to get off and go catch the no. 100!) Whilst these landmarks are exciting, so much is being missed…Monaco may be small, but it isn’t short of places to go and things to do..

Take ‘ Le Rocher’ (The Rock) home to Monaco-Ville, the principality’s old town which is perched on the top of sheer cliffs next to the Prince’s Palace. I remember all too well on my first trip here many years ago as a tourist, wondering what was up there as I peered up from the port, but never setting foot there at all. When I finally did, I started to realise how I had missed out.

The rock is a world in miniature in an already tiny country. Apart from the attractive ‘gingerbread’ streets in the old town, where (especially at night) one feels like one has slipped onto the set of a medieval film, the rock is home to a school, a crèche, a library (the Princess Grace Irish library to be correct) a post office, shops, cafes & restaurants, a radio station, a jail and even a nunnery! All of this fits into a headland that is only around 600 meters long.

Stunning gardens overlook the both ports, the Prince’s Palace and the Oceanographic museum fascinate (more about those later in another article), and during the summer months, the rock becomes one of my absolute favourite places to visit, as it is home to the Monaco Open Air Cinema. Ah yes… boasting Europe’s largest outdoor screen, all of the latest blockbusters are shown here from June to September, and in what style. Let’s face it, in how many places can you lie back on a sun lounger and watch films in English on a giant screen, under the stars on a warm balmy night, whilst sipping a gin & tonic?

Otherwise, even if you aren’t lucky enough to be there on a summer night, the gardens alone on the rock shouldn’t be missed. Beginning at the top of the long road taken to drive up to the rock (which is a lovely walk, less steep than the stairs direct to the palace, with marvellous views over the port) the gardens stretch all the way around to the seaward end or the rock, then along the Fontvieille side on the cliff tops… there are a wealth of places hidden away to discover, a hidden fort and mini amphitheatre, pools, pathways, sumptuous plants, rare trees, and – no exaggeration here – mind-blowing views across the Mediterranean. Taking a walk from here all through St Martin’s gardens up to the palace is beautiful. If you don’t fancy the walks up and down to the rock, buses No 1 and 2 run up to the top, (just be warned that they don’t run late into the night..) Another great time of year to visit is when the Christmas lights go on in December.. But I won’t ruin the surprise..Needless to say, the gingerbread town becomes something even more magical..

Oct 17, 2009 | Categories: Bars & Restaurants, Cinema, Culture, Nightlife, Uncategorized | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

Indian Summer

BY LOUISE HARRISON

Monaco's Larvotto Beach in October

Monaco's Larvotto Beach in October

The buckets and spades have been packed up, and school holidays have been over for sometime… yet this the time of year that many of the Monaco locals love the best…our yearly ‘Indian Summer’. And how summery is it? Well, swimming is still possible thanks to the warm Mediterranean waters, beaches are no longer overcrowded, and it’s still warm enough to sit out in your swimsuit and quaff an icy-cold glass of rosé in the early days of October… so in Monaco, Larvotto beach is the obvious destination.

Infamous only for some of the rhinestone laden bikinis (or lack thereof) sighted on its shores, Larvotto is often overlooked by tourists, being situated a smidgen further down the coast from the main port (just a few minutes on the other side of the tunnel made famous by the Grand Prix), and it’s a shame so many miss this area, as it is home to some of the best eateries and bars in town.

Catering for all, and under the surveillance of lifeguards, this destination is great for families (sporting several playgrounds) and has a beach volley court, not to mention a ‘handiplage‘ giving easy access to disabled visitors. The sea itself is a part of Monaco’s underwater nature reserve, with all fishing and activities harmful to the environment forbidden, although care is taken with the bipedal visitors too… jellyfish nets protect the swimmers all through the summer months, so no need to fear the stingers terrorising much of the Riviera in recent summers..

But what of the ‘apres-d’eau’? Whether one wishes to be pampered by ones bronzed ‘plagiste’ from a sun lounger all day, or sit on the public sectors of the beach, Larvotto is an excellent place for a spot of lunch in between dips, and is equally a good destination for a summer or autumn evening’s aperitif. Miami Plage is the place to head for the one of the most delicious salads this blogger has come across (tip: it’s called the ‘Cancun‘ and contains basil-marinated chicken breast), and ‘La Rose de Vents‘ has some fabulous seafood. And of course it’s impossible to talk about Larvotto without mentioning ‘La Note Bleue‘, home to some of the best Jazz acts in town, not to mention a chic selection of food and cocktails…a great spot on a summer evening.

But what’s on at Larvotto in the Winter months? Well apart from those hardy few who take the annual New Year’s Day dip in the sea, ‘La Spiaggia‘ the yellow-liveried beach & restaurant at the very end of Larvotto beach, is a great spot to visit. Famous for its terrific pizzas, it’s a popular spot even in Winter, (as can be seen from the amount of visitors every weekend,) there’s nothing quite like sitting on a Sunday afternoon in February or March munching an another delicious slice whilst catching some winter rays…

…so checking out Monaco’s little beach could be a good option next weekend…whatever time of year you’re reading this.

Oct 09, 2009 | Categories: Bars & Restaurants, Beaches, Facilities For The Disabled, Nightlife | Tags: , , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

Old Dog, New Tricks….

Port Hercules, Monaco

Port Hercules, Monaco

BY LOUISE HARRISON

And they say you can’t teach an old dog new tricks…

Monaco has always had a certain cachet for being a glitzy, glamorous destination, but tourists may have been forgiven for thinking that they had got off at the wrong stop in the past if they happened to land in the port looking for food and entertainment. Fortunately for them (and us) things have very much changed.

A few years back, a whole lot of grumbling could be heard on the streets of this little principality as ‘Port Hercules’ (the main harbour of Monaco) started to undergo a major facelift the likes of which even some of our more surgically-enhanced residents had never seen.

Like the majority of people, I assumed this just meant new berths for the plethora of visiting motor yachts & increasingly numerous cruise liners that drop in whilst ploughing up the sparkling Mediterranean en route to Nice, Barcelona and other cities by the sea. The port became a construction zone, and even peering at plans in the local newspapers didn’t seem to make things much clearer. Then suddenly, the ships chandler’s and pokey little supplies shops in need of a coat of paint along the bottom of the port all disappeared…to be replaced with what, we all wondered..?

Just a year ago, the guesswork was over as we began to see the work come to fruition…and what a renaissance…now real nightlife lies beyond the lines of spaceships-turned-super yachts.

Led by the likes of the ‘Brasserie de Monaco‘ the hip micro-brewery already legendary within a year of opening for its happy hour and futuristic decor, the transformation of the bottom of Port Hercules from dowdy port into the place to be for the mandatory after work ‘apero’ was well underway. For both the locals and the massive influx of workers and tourists (Monaco sees its population double during working hours..), the centre of town has finally become central.

Now joined by the sophisticated ‘Zest‘ and the tasty-as-it-sounds ‘PizzArt‘, and with other restaurants & bars popping up in the vicinity by the minute, the port is now a mass of sophisticated summer terraces, water spray fans and glitzy hostesses leading bewildered newbies to their cheap pints and cocktails.

The stalwarts such as the chic beach club ‘Sea Lounge‘ over on the far side of Monaco are no longer the most popular summer hangouts, seemingly far away from the action, and it’s noticeable that the old hands at ‘Stars ‘N’ Bars‘ have also entered the fray with cut price drinks and food. In these financially dubious times, even the most frivolous resident probably enjoys the change racking up in the pocket as price of having fun in Monaco is driven down for the first time in recent memory.

So what does this mean for the punter? Instead of the slightly tatty tourist-trap restaurants and tacky ice cream bars that used to be the only thing open after dark on the port, Monaco has finally got itself a young, fun and easily accessible ’strip’ of bars & eateries to match its young, upwardly-mobile crowd, and finally,..finally it’s possible to have a night out under the sparkling lights and glitz without a gold card or remortgaging the house.

And that’s good news..  :)

Oct 05, 2009 | Categories: Bars & Restaurants, Nightlife | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »