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I ♥ Langan’s

BY VERITY DOUGLAS

Dining on a budget is miserable at the best of times. In London however, dining on a shoestring is a whole other ball game. My supper invariably comes from either the ‘bargain bin’ at (ahem) Tesco, or the nearest chip shop. Delicious. Yes. Nutritious…I think not. Which is where Langan’s Bistro really comes into its own. A scrumptious main meal and glass of wine for ten Great British pounds! Okay, so you might not get a glass of “the finest wine known to humanity” but you will get a delicious starter and a main meal you may just struggle to finish. (Although I guarantee; you will really, really want to.) Plus, together with great nosh, the staff are nothing short of the most charming you’ll ever come across and the ambiance is restful without that worryingly common “I’m dining in a morgue” sensation. It’s ideal for a relaxed aprés work supper and is the perfect destination for that crucial first “dinner date”. (And you can pay for her without having to take out a loan).

Parasols are suspended from the ceiling and an eclectic assortment of original artworks line the walls, making Langan’s a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach. Plus, with the sort of hearty, home-cooked fare you might expect Chez Mum, this is like a little taste of home away from home. Think a mouthwatering bowlful of Penne Carbonara, or roast pork, complete with crackling, apple sauce and vegetables. Délicieux!

Langan’s Bistro, 26, Devonshire Street, London. W1G 6PH. Tel: 0207 935 4531

Come Sad, Leave Happy

BY VERITY DOUGLAS

Bondage and bagels are not the most likely pairing, but if you’re still doubting their compatibility, then you obviously haven’t paid a visit to the S&M Café. With a gimp as your waiter and a whole lotta leather, they serve bacon and sex and will eat you for breakfast. *Jokes.*

Fear not my bashful buddies, S&M stands for Sausage and Mash, (sadly no sado-masochism this time) and is a modern take on the Greasy Spoon. Melamine furniture: check. Hideously unflattering lighting: check. Sounds like a typical caff I hear you cry. But take into account the fact that you can order a bottle of wine with your butty and you have a whole new genre of cafeteria. Forget a Full English and a cup o’ Char, the S&M Café offers a lot more than just a fry-up. Think bacon and egg sarnies oozing with enough butter to sink a small ship, or a goat’s cheese salad for those feeling bad about Friday nights’ calorie consumption. There’s something for everyone and so the clientele is far from typical.

There’s wasn’t a trucker in sight as I staggered in one Saturday lunchtime for a grease feast and a glass of Pinot Grigio. Instead, I was met with an army of AA ambassadors (that’s American Apparel not Alcoholics Anonymous), together with Patsy and Eddy who made for some ‘absolutely fabulous’ decor.

With good ol’ Babs carrying on in her smalls on the menu cover (naughty!) the premise is totally tongue-in-cheek, bringing a much needed sense of humour to the London restaurant scene.

Come sad. Leave happy. Go back.

SThere are S&M Cafés in Islington, Leadenhall, the O2, Portobello, Smithfield and Spitalfields. I popped into the Islington branch:

S&M Café, 4-6, Essex Road, Islington, London. N1 8LN. Tel: 0207 359 5361

Wilton’s Music Hall: an endangered gem

Wilton's front

BY SHEYMA BUALI

The World Monument Fund has headlined Wilton’s Music Hall as Britain’s oldest music hall.  It is also announced as “one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world”.  The building is comprised of a Victorian theater hall for performance events and a bar on the side.  The history of it is immense, going back well over 200 years.  For this, I had to go visit it.

Getting there, my friends and I were in awe of its raw standing.  The bar, now reinstated as the Mahogany Bar, has been licensed since the 1780’s, but was most likely serving way before then.  By the 1850’s John Wilton built the Victorian style theater right behind it at a time when performance entertainment wasn’t all that popular.  Being so close to St. Katherine’s Docks, the space had a service to the community surrounding it.  For one, it was the spot for dockyard men, bringing steel and iron into the country, to go for after work entertainment and drink.  Mahogany

The name of the bar, the Mahogany, came for the fact that it had a unique build, made with the finest mahogany wood, only afforded by its relationship and proximity to the Docks.  Though the bar has by now sadly been stripped of all evidence of this, a piece of that original, 150-year-old mahogany still hangs as a living reminder above the door into the foyer of the entrance. 

The bar’s tradition of serving the community continued till the turn of the century, when it offered free meals to thousands of strikers a day during the first dockers’ strike of late 1800’s.  Subsequently, in the 1930’s, it became the meeting point for the anti-fascist movement.

But by the 1950’s it was sold and used as a warehouse, leading to its semi-derelict status of today.  Now, another 50 years later, the place is being run by a small staff that is sincerely concerned with the fate of the building.  Following in the footsteps of a small group of entertainers and locals who started to campaign against the building’s demolition 1960’s, they are working at keeping the place alive and active. 

corner of theater

In current years, the Hall has experienced somewhat of a revival with more plays being performed there pulling in big crowds.  The bar, still holding that warm, English  public house atmosphere is now functioning after a 50 year shutdown. 

There is no desire to restore the theater to what its ‘original’ state would have been.  That is in fact a threat that is being avoided.  The issues with that vary in that the history goes so far back that a restoration would have to choose a single era in its past to hold onto and recreate.  This would be an unfair and obtrusive move to a structure that has kept its aging walls and been allowed its natural course.  One may ask why it is important to try and keep the original build, plaster and structure, arguing that perhaps the time for a new incarnation is here; but with a city such as London, and in fact this goes with any architectural relics, the value of the space is in the age that it has endured.  There are many spaces we are surrounded by that have come and gone, changed with the times, or even faced the ill fate of being restored to a symbolic reformation of what it once was, only to create a façade of a single era in its history, but when a gem such as this still stands in it ongoing original-ness, it is something to protect in order to keep that value to it as it is, the culture of its history, alive and continuous. 

theater walls

Now, the hope is that it continues to serve the purpose it was built for that it has triumphantly continued to do through all this time, that is: being a performance hall.  The Hall is a beautiful wonder to be in; watching a play there as they did in early Victorian times offers an affect that is its setting within its local historical culture.  But the building itself holds such a raw beauty that it is impossible not to be in awe of. 

Check the program, look deeper into its history, and figure out how you can be involved with the Hall at http://www.wiltons.org.uk/

Free film screenings take place once a month and the theater program is constantly renewing.  One can also take a guided tour and hear particular stories that will bring about more questions about its 200 year past and social importance.  

drawing

Spitalfields Market

 

wide view

BY SHEYMA BUALI

Now that Christmas is coming, everyone is out there searching for special, warm gifts and stocking stuffers.  Spitalfields is, to me, by far the most amazing shopping experience in London.  A sprawling market that starts at the official Spitalfields goes on and on and continues to grow towards the Up Market, and even leads into the Brick Lane market.

The first time I went to Spitalfields was some 8 years ago, which is nothing compared to other veterans of the market.  At that time it was a place where people can find things that are made by fashion students and independent entrepreneurs.   One can find quirky, fashionable, colourful, styling stuff.  Today, you can still find those things, and more; the amazing thing has remained the same though is that every thing is unique. 

positive tees

My favourite thing about going over to Spitalfields and the Up Market is that most of the items one buys, one will buy from the person who made it.  Prices are comparable to those on the high streets, but at the market, you’ll find things that are inspired by new trends and of which there are literally only a few pieces. 

When going there, I have a few favourites that I like to visit.  For example, there is ‘positive tees‘: This couple make designs for t-shirts that have a message of inspiration and hope.  I bought my brother one with Mohammed Ali, the boxer, with a big “believe,” printed on it; in fact, a long the years, I may have bought one of each design he has.  He makes them for women, men and little children as well as bibs with messages like “Future Giant” written on them.  They are special in that they are printed on fair trade, cotton t-shirts and a portion of his profit goes to children’s charities

Another special are the hand made items, like the bags by Moya, with their motto: Make Bags, Not War.  Each bag is hand painted so there are no two alike.  They come in all shapes and sizes, their canvas make are durable for various types of use.  moya bag

But though the shopping keeps people in there mesmerized like robots, hypnotized by the cool stuff, there is more to Spitalfields than that.  Walking around chatting with the vendors about their crafts, about their business, about the situations of the world is a very communal experience.  Most of the vendors are there week to week, Sunday being the most active day.  But others are actually there every day.  Seeing the world go by and interacting with it through their art, after all, most of them either sell collectables or stuff they have designed and made themselves.  Or even just communicating like they are with me, it’s a whole different outlook that is presented through the individuals at the market. 

public opninon

As someone who frequents the market as much as I can, I still say that I love my Sundays at Spitalfields and what a savior that place has been for gift shopping.

Spitalfields and Up Market are most easily reached by Liverpool Street tube station.

Liberty: a place for movement in art and design

Lib hanging sign

Liberty is a department store like any other around London.  It is among the better known of the high-end stores but they seem to maintain an image of being the smaller, but more specialized one.  I had never been in there though, so I never had an opinion either way.  But when my friend was shopping for her wedding dress a few weeks ago, we went in for a bridal fitting. 

I walked around to see their items, I guess what struck me was that there was a certain element in their designs that made their stuff colorful and contemporary but classic at the same time.  When I looked into it one day after really noticing the size of the Tudor building that stands just as iconic-ally a part of the Liberty brand, I realized that it actually was once upon a time actually a meeting place for the pre-Raphaelite art movement and the store had a hand in introducing Art Nouveau to the English. 

Lib artisans door ii

Lib artisans door

The store was first opened by a man actually named Arthur Liberty, a 31-year-old from Buckinghamshire.  Seeking the exotic, he traveled the Asian east to find objets d’art and home items he would carry in a high-end designer store.  After all, in 1875, the “exotic” was all the rage.

Eventually, influenced by his travels, he began to create his own patterns for fabrics for home ware and dresses.  The store carried items such as Oriental rugs and bedding, as well as accessories from the Far East.  Artists at the time were drawn to the shop’s avant-garde approach and eventually made it their local for discussions and get-togethers.  The influence between Liberty and the Brotherhood on each other made them two parts of England’s Aesthetic Movement, bringing in the decadence of France and Italy. 

By the 1890’s, Liberty’s adoption of Art Nouveau pushed it to becoming the style icon it is now.  At that point, Liberty was credited as the support for its designers.

As a department store brand, they are still considered quite daring in their fashion and home ware innovations.  Their recent merge of a clothing line with the art work of Rolling Stone guitarist – turned – painter, Ronnie Wood, drew a lot of attention, both good and bad, from both the fashion and art worlds.  Who would’ve known that a department store could take the role of patron for art movements across 100 years?

Lib full bldg

Liberty is at the corner of the Regent Street and Great Marlborough Street at Oxford Circus.

Hotel Russell: design sibling of the Titanic

BY SHEYMA BUALI

HotRuss exter

Hotel Russell is a huge and obvious hotel situated at the east end of Russell Square.  Located at the heart of the historical Bloomsbury district, it is surrounded by the University of London, just steps from the British Museum, and mere blocks from Tottenham Court Road.  The square and Hotel, get their name from the long lineage of the Dukes and Earls of Bedford, whose last name was Russell.

The Hotel, as mentioned, is not by any means humble; it stands huge and red taking the entire side of the Square.  Its ‘chateau’-esque magnitude, reminiscent of Victorian and German Renaissance architecture, adds to the impossibility of ever walking by this mammoth building without noticing it. What fascinates me about this hotel though, is not that sheer size or grandeur, but the fact that the interior of this grandeur is in fact the same as what was the Titanic.  That is correct, that unsinkable ship that indeed ended up sinking leaving us, almost one-hundred years later, with numerous filmic, literary and other adaptations and an eerie mystery that can only be born of a Victorian era waterway vessel that went tragically wrong.

HotRuss entrance  HotRuss wall HotRuss stairs

I am unsure if others share my enthusiasm in regards to this, but to me, it is a very interesting and well-kept secret.  I actually question why it hasn’t been a publicized point.  Perhaps the answer is unnecessary as what drew me is the fact that that detail isn’t so widely known, bringing the eeriness of the Titanic all the much closer.  

The same designer, Charles Fitzroy Dolls, designed both, having been hired by the White Star Line, the company that owned both.  It is said that both their public areas are nearly the same.  Though the hotel was refurbished a few years ago, the main parts remain as they were: the high arch ceilings, the wood panels, marble columns and the majestic staircase.

The restaurant in the Hotel is said to have the closest proximity in terms of similarities.  Perhaps that was why the restaurant, Fitzroy Doll’s, was named after the architect. 

HotRss fitzdoll inter

Fitzroy Doll's has the closest proximity in design and is named after the designer.

Either way, after knowing this, entering the Hotel Russell has a new layer of intrigue.  Unsure about the details makes me want to find out more, all part of the allure and mystery of anything that has to do with what should have been the invincible Titanic.  

Hotel Russell: 1-8 Russell Square, Bloomsbury, London, WC1B 5BE, UK

Camden: History, Markets and Distinct Character

BY: SHEYMA BUALI

Camden LockCamden Town, to many, alludes to the grittiness of north London punk.  When one says Camden, one may think of the village with tattoo parlours lining the streets inhabited by people with pink hair and steel toe boots – but then again, someone else might say that that is so 10 years ago! 

Camden street

The main attraction in Camden, that which attracted all the colourful people in the first place, would be the market.  Its history is now more than 35 years old, but the infrastructure had been laid there for well over 200 years.  The Town grew directly from the trade history that went with the build of the area, then developed even more by the direct focus on the production and sales of crafts.

The Earl of Camden developed the area starting in the 1790’s.  Regents Canal’s run through Camden Town was designed to connect to the Thames River and the Paddington Canal; its purpose was to transport goods into, through, and out of London.  With that came the development of the warehouses surrounding it. 

About 150 years later, road transport started to develop and the canals’ use started to decline.  Having to re-think the use of the spaces surrounding the waters, landowners and leasers started to gear it towards more commercial use.  By the 1970’s, three young men rented out some of the old warehouses on the banks and turned them into studios.  Camden Lock turned into a Sunday market where artists were encouraged to sell their work.  Attracting both artists wanting to produce and visitors eager to see and buy, Camden started to become more and more populated.  

Camden mrkt red jacketSince then, the commerce of craft in the area grew.  All the history meshed to make it what it is today: three major markets spread out connecting into each other like a maze along Camden High Street, between the Chalk Farm and Camden Town tube stops.  

Other structures lent themselves to other purposes, such as the stables surrounding the water vein of Camden.  Among them is the Stables Market, with unique t-shirts, ethnic crafts, vintage clothes, rock and roll memorabilia, food from all corners of the world, and so much more going on going round and around.  Two other structures originally serving as horse stables, have also been converted into gallery halls with bars and food service and a space for live entertainment: try the historic Dingwalls’ Gallery and the more recent, Proud Camden

Another building that retains its magnificent old architecture is the Market Hall.  Opened in 1991, it is another structure opened as a modern indoor market arcade.  It was celebrated for its Victorian glass roof and fitting respect for the architecture surrounding it. Camden burrito place

Finally, the third major component of the ever-sprawling Camden Market is the Camden Lock Market.  Just overlooking the Canal, it is a place to find other crafts made of fabric such as aprons, pillow cases, baby bibs and hammocks, artistic prints, glass crafts, novelty items, handmade and imported jewelry, and so on.  It’s like an ongoing gallery of unique objects of all kinds, easy to spend hours just looking at the patterns, shapes and cuts going on. 

With all that said, the great thing is that chain stores are not allowed in the vicinity.  It’s amazing that the area retains its original infrastructure from 200 years ago.  A minor change is that the areas surrounding the waterway have been remolded into seats so people can spend afternoon, evening or days along there.  Weekends supposedly host 150,000 people making for an active people-watching session.  Camden is great in that it is among the areas of London that diagram the city’s ever-changing urban and commercial construct.

i love camden

Go There or Know Nothing

museum-of-everything

BY VERITY DOUGLAS

“Some of these pieces are totally rubbish” was the immortal line my friend Georgie uttered while wandering ’round The Museum of Everything. I have to admit I agreed with her, but it doesn’t end there. Recently opened in über trendy Primrose Hill, The Museum of Everything is a pop up gallery where I would have been totally unsurprised to find Miss Havisham skulking in a corner or Lady Macbeth pacing the corridors. Which is not to imply that the setting is particularly old or magnificent, it’s just plain eerie. The perfect home for these sorts of tragic anti-heroines, and, apparently, a motley assortment of ‘undiscovered’ talent. Georgie was firm in her belief that much of the ‘talent’ should have remained undiscovered, but, amidst the weird drawings of guns and Bolshevist leaders, the exposed wiring and dodgy plywood walls, there hung the occasional stroke of creative genius.

Harald Stoffers was by far my favourite. Born in 1961 in Hamburg, Stoffers started off writing odd words on scraps of paper, which he distributed amongst his friends and colleagues. These gradually blossomed into full length letters and in 1999, he began writing to his mother, who has since received letters from him daily. Written on musical staves (he draws the lines himself – clearly, they have not heard of rulers in Hamburg) there are only three or four letters on display in the museum, but for me, they were the star attraction. Sadly, you will have to go there and see them for yourself, thanks to the re-incarnation of Stalin who took a firm and irrational dislike to me and Canon. “It’s not a camera in my pocket, I’m just pleased to see you” doesn’t work when you’re a girl. Note-to-self.

I was also tickled by the work of Prophet Royal Robertson (1936-1997), a sign painter who used the medium to hurl abuse at his ex-wife without actually having to speak to her. Thus the no-holds-barred: “No divorce whore’s allowed”. I’m assuming she got the message. Either that or she was illiterate…

The experience was rounded off nicely by a complimentary cup of coffee in one of a vast selection of mismatched drinking vessels, while the dulcet tones of Jarvis Cocker speaking pig-french (par-lez vous ang-lais?) echoed around the room. It would appear that Jarvis once ventured into the world of amateur documentary making but his endeavours were relegated to a vault somewhere – until now.

Catch Jarvis and a free cuppa at The Museum of Everything, on the corner of Regent’s Park Road and Sharpleshall Street, London. NW1

Open 11:00am – 6.30pm, Thursday to Sunday. Be there or see nothing…

A. Kapoor Girl’s Treasure

AnishKapoor

BY VERITY DOUGLAS

Balls-Anish-KapoorI’m not an art historian. I have too low a brow and too cynical an outlook to mistake multi-coloured dots for anything other than…well, dots. And much as I’ve tried to appreciate Tracey Emin, for me she will always be dyslexic first, artistic second (her inability to spell appalls me more than her language. And yes, I am a fully paid up member of the Sp-a-G police).

Hence, my pockets weighed down by the £12 admission fee (ouch), a hastily stowed camera and an unhealthy smattering of scepticism, I made my way to the Royal Academy for the Anish Kapoor exhibition.

I will concede that Tall Tree and the Eye is an impressive opener and definitely looked like art (ie: not anything I could have done myself with some scrap paper and a crayon). A stack of massive silver marbles look precarious and weirdly alien against the historic setting of the Annenberg Courtyard, which is multiplied and distorted in the mirrored surface. However, my inner cynic wasn’t pacified just yet. They were obviously going to put the best bit on the outside, so that suckers like me would dig deep only to be hideously disappointed by the crap inside.

I was wrong. There. I said it. And I plan never to say it again until Damien Hirst stops taking himself waaaaaaaaay too seriously. Kapoor’s exhibition is an accomplishment of both scale and illusion and I actually thought it was well worth the twelve hundred pence. Again, something I can’t say of many things I elect to fritter my money on. (I really like Doritos. Like. Really a LOT). We’ll ignore the embarrassingly entitled Greyman Cries, Shaman Dies, Billowing Smoke, Beauty Evoked (not even I could make that kind of sh*t up) and concentrate on the star attractions.

Syvayambh, which is Sanskrit meaning self-generated (allegedly) is almost tragic in its’ pointlessness. Perhaps ‘pointlessness’ is the wrong word. Maybe ‘relentlessness’ is better, for this certainly isn’t without ‘point’. An enormous block of crimson wax moves back and forth through three of the Royal Academy’s galleries, painfully slowly so as to be virtually imperceptible to the human eye (I tried in vain to catch the bugger at it). The effect is eerily funereal, as ‘the corporal mass of this thirty-ton monochrome has its body flayed by the building, in an endless tragedy.’ Or, in real words, as ‘the big red blob goes backwards and forwards losing bits of itself along the way, with no real purpose.’ (Excuse me while I answer the door to The Royal Academy of Arts Literary Representative).

The other piece that really packs a punch (wa-hay!) is Shooting into the Corner, which does pretty much what it says on the tin. A cannon is fired repeatedly into the corner of a mini gallery, where the same red wax gradually accumulates in a disturbingly gruesome looking mound. Every twenty minutes another shell is fired (each one weighing thirty pounds) and the suspense is really the beauty of the installation. I waited for what felt like an age to witness the ‘big bang’ – only to miss capturing it on an illicit video as I jumped three feet in the air. (N.B. Don’t take your Nana).

Anish Kapoor is at The Royal Academy of Arts until 11th December 2009.

The Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, London. W1J 0BD. Tel: 0844 209  1919 for tickets.

Greyman-Cries

Cinephelia: for the love of movies

BY SHEYMA BUALI

coffee cupEasing off the London Film Festival, having a light lunch and coffee at Cinephelia, I realized it is not just a place where the audience gaze comes alive; it is in fact where a growing family of movie lovers can be certain they can share their high regard for the art of cinema. 

A bookstore with two branches, it’s a difficult one to fully describe because the concept continues to grow.  The first one, opened a year ago, is a quaint and small but fully packed bookstore in London’s east end.  The second, a mere two months old, is a pristine gallery, eco-friendly café and reading room with free WiFi.  They are the official book carriers of Wallflower Press, the cinema art and studies book publisher (which mean their books are sold here at in-house rates.)

books on all genres

books on all genres

Carrying books from other publishers just as well, topics run the gamut through all genres, regions, and levels of study, practice and critique.  Their DVD selection is one to really motivate one’s interest in the world of cinema, coming from home-entertainment distributions companies that support the independent and art house and institutions that commission collectables.  Being in either bookstore (east or west end), visitors are encouraged to stick around, get comfortable and flip through old movie magazines. 

And there is a warm and open invitation to start a friendship, if not with the movie-buff staff running the place, definitely with their topicality.  The east-end bookstore allows people to borrow books from the lending pile.  While in the west-end, a cinema club is slowly but intensely coming underway.  For 10 pounds a month, members have free access, with a friend, to attend weekly screenings, discussions and Q&A’s with filmmakers, theorists, critics and others.

The relationship with the publishing house guarantees that there is always an event that will be of a scholarly standard.  In their first month open, they had already had an evening of discussion between film and culture academic Sophie Mayer and film director Sally Potter.  The talk coincided with the recent release of Potter’s film Rage starring Judi Dench, Jude Law, and Diane Wiest, and recent release of Mayer’s book on Potter as a feminist filmmaker and performer, an Oscar-nominated director, and her role in digital cinema. 

DSC_0009

reading room

Meanwhile, the gallery is exhibiting Polish film posters: a rare and beautiful collection of movie relics.  The unique art of Polish posters is one that grew into being a very important outlet for artists. They combined influences and techniques from Constructivism, Futurism and Surrealism and the disciplines of architects, painters and printmakers.  By the 1960’s, poster artists preferred, rather than placing obvious symbols of the movie they were depicting like stars and such, to create their visual interpretation through the film’s themes.  Of the films depicted in posters on display right now are those by directors such as Stanley Kubrick, David Lynch and Akira Kurosawa among many others.

Though the space is open to the public, evening film events are unfortunately open only to members.  The reason for this format is to keep the commercial aspect of the cinema experience null.  Rather than an event of anonymity where one pays to enter for a single night, one can come in knowing they are part of a movie lover’s network, where people committed to the art take part week after week. 

Having gone to enjoy their movie-clad setting for a quick meal, I left having learned quite a few new things from their displays.  To me, this place breeds curiosity and the desire to be more involved in the complex and romantic world of movies.  They definitely spread the love for cinema and invite you to do the same: cinephile to cinephile. basinger

http://www.cinephelia.co.uk

Cinephelia East: 97 Sclater Street, off Brick Lane, London E1 6HR
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/east/  go to the site for a virtual tour of bookstore

Cinephelia West: 171 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RS
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/west/ go to the site for a tour, info on upcoming events and Cinephelia member benefits