BY NICOLA APORTI

Living in Shanghai is exciting: most, if not all, Shanghai’s expats (as well as, of course, real Shanghainese) will share this view.

Nevertheless, nature and green spaces are indeed something missing in Shanghai. There are a few parks; most streets in the French Concession are sidelined with trees, but still the prevailing feeling is being suffocated by buildings, cement, cars, people…

When, after a long spell on the Yangtze Delta, this feeling of physical oppression becomes too strong … it’s time to head southwards!

Laos is not far away from Shanghai: a little more than one hour to go to Kunming, a little less then two to arrive in Vientiane – and to understand, once you have arrived there, that you must have crossed some invisible borders and have entered a new world.

1. Vientiane , the capital

Vientiane welcomes you with what is supposed to be the quietest and less busy airport of the world, and you might find yourself as the only one wandering in its aisles looking for the info desk where a friendly lady might interrupt her nap to provide you with the list of hotels you were asking for.

Vientiane is the capital of Laos, although it is a little bizarre thinking that this lay-down city, with more trees than buildings where, except for a tall hotel on the Mekong, I would say no building has more than 4 floors, is a Country’s capital.

Walking dows its roads, tuk-tuks queue up to pick up tourists as well as local villagers returning to their homes after a market day; sometimes you might encounter some of those vehicles parked on the side of the street, the driver sleeping and loudly snoring on his seat, and you might feel unconfortable to wake him up asking for a ride.

The whole city is spread on the right bank of Mekong river, this huge snake crawling from the high plateau of Tibet down through the whole Indochina, and marking the border with Thailand, which stands just in front of the drowsy capital of Laos.

The promenade on the Mekong is something unexpected. Nothing monumental or solemn; rather, an “off-the-beaten track” muddy path, not wide enough to allow two people to walk side by side, passing through small stands offering local food to be eaten sitting the Lao way on matterasses on the floor, staring at Mekong’s eternal stream.

The city has indeed some interesting feature: the Pha That Luang, the most important national monumnent, the That Dam (or black stupa) and many other Wat temples, all in the typical Lao style.

A little french taste still remains in a few colonial style houses, in a few boulangeries, and in what is an asian version of the Champs Elysees…

Beside this, maybe one of Vientiane’s the biggest surprises is its nightlife. Which, simply, does not exist.

A law passed by Laos’government imposes a curfew all over the Country: after 11.30 any kind of shop, retaurant, disco, etc shall close.

This causes discos to open at 8.30 pm and close at 11,30 (!), but the main effect is that streets are empy and mostly unlit after 11 pm.

Only a couple of dodgy places make exception, one being situated within the biggest and tallest Hotel of the city, on the Mekong’s bank, gathering basically two kind of people – curious tourists looking for a couple of extra beers and hookers.

This city is living at the same slow pace as the whole Country, and it is interesting to notice that the few evident signals of development all bear the “made in China” label: the biggest shopping mall of the Country has just been inaugurated in August 2007, needless to say with Chinese capital (almost all of the available space has been allocated to Chinese stores). Entrepreneurs from Yunnan, Hunan and elsewhere in China are little by little streming into Laos to set up small factories, or even just to sell their made in China products… just take a look at the Talat Sao market, where most of tpyical Laos handicraft products are made in China!

2. Going North

A couple of days in Vientiane is pretty enough to appreciate this city, and to get more familiar with this Country. After this, moving north is a great way to get really into it!

Vang Viengh well deserves to be the first stop. Situated just 150 km away form Vientiane, this tiny village is nested in between a wonderful limestone area. The landscape is magic and primordial, with bizarrely-shaped hills, jungle and wild rivers offering un unforgettable scenario.

No wonders that Vang Viengh has become one of the most popular tourist destination in Laos; and, being Laos a backpacker’s paridise, no wonders for Vang Vieng being a must for hippies looking for some fun in one of the countless pubs providing happy food, happy drinks and happy shakes!

Something not to be missed in Vang Viengh is tubing: it is possible to rent tubes and to jump in the Nam Song river, being carried for a couple of hours by the stream through wild scenarios; by the way, it is nice to have a (happy) beer-stop in one of the numerous pubs recently opened on the banks, in some of whom you can enjoy the experience of jumping into the river holding to a rope – the Tarzan’s way.

When Vang Viengh has given you the amount of adrenaline you were looking for, and you feel happy enough, next stop shall be Luang Prabang, the old capital, one of the most beautiful cities in Asia.

Perched at the confluence of the Nam Khan river into Mekong, this small city is literally the heart of Laos’ culture.

Dating back as of the 8^th century AD, it reached its most glorious epoque until the 16^th century, when it used to be called “the city of gold” and was the prosperous capital of Lan Xan kingdom.

The city hosts a surprising number of Wats, most of whom of ancient origin and concealing buddhist art treasures. The Wat Xieng Thong is doubtless the most beautiful temple of the city, and maybe of the whole country, but all over the oldest part of Luang Prabang – a tiny peninsula between its two rivers – art’s masterpieces sprawl, in a relaxed atmosphere where old french-colonial buildings, ancient gilded temples and the typical Lao wooden houses coexist next to eachother.

Buddhism might be the soul of Laos; for sure it is Luang Prabang’s. The streets are teeming with shaven-heads, orange-dressed monks, and one of the strongest experiences to live is to attend the daily morning ryth of the alm.

At 5 am thousands of monks, queuing up on the street side, invade every corner of the city in a silent procession. They stop at every house, gently knock at the door, wait for somebody to open and to offer them some rice, some food, or better some kips or baths, all being stucked in the same jar.

The ryth ends with the monk blessing the believer.

This ryth is central in the Lao people culture, and all the population takes part in it.

In fact bouddhism – after a few years of ban – has now been fully re-acceptedand re-collocated in its original pivot position in Lao culture and society, as fundamental element of social cohesion and identity : for instance, it is the morning ryth of giving the alm to monks that officially provided the reason to the cur-few after 11.30 pm.

Luang Prabang is on the way to reach some of Laos most amazing wild areas, including Luang Nam Tha in the far north, close to the border with China.

From this village it is possible to leave for amazing one, two and even three day trekkings in the jungle, tasting the unique contact with an un-touched nature and with isolated communities living in unaccessible villages.

Most of this minorities have very little contact with foreigners, and tourists should be very discrete when approaching them. These tribes being animist, clap of hands or stamping feet on the ground are believed to perturbate the spirits, therefore this kind of behaviour should be avoided.

If jungle is one of the main feature of Laos, the other one is for sure the Mekong, Indochina’s big river.

Laos is, simply, a gift of Mekong.

This river provides fish, water for the fields and the lush forests but mainly this river is indeed one of the worlds’ longest highways: lacking of main long distance roads, Laos relies on Mekong for transportation between main cities and, most of all, small villages, otherwise impossible to reach.

From the northern border with Thailand, in the remote village of Huay Xay, starts one of the most beautiful navigations on the Mekong. With the slow boat, Luang Prabang, roughy 200 km southwards, will be reached in 2 days and one night.

The route sneaks through inaccessible spots, useless to say covered by the most untouched vegetation.

Except for a few fishermen, precariously perched on their long, thin boats, so motionless to seem completely melted with the surrounding landscape, and some occasional villages showing their roofs through the vegetation, no other sign of human life is perceivable.

The night will be spent in the isolated village of Pak Beng, with nothing else to do but staring at the sun that spreads its last beams on the mountains and on the crispy surface of the river.

3. Ten thousand islands…

A gift of Mekong…

This is particularly the case for the marvellous archipelago of Siphandon, at Laos’s southern border with Cambodia.

The river is here 14 km wide, in his riverbed hosts more than 10.000 islands, in Lao language called si phan don, indeed.

The islands are a peaceful shelter for travellers, tourism appearing to become more and more important as revenue for the local community.

Little running water and electricity may scare those more dependent on comfort, but the prize for the brave ones is great: a real Lao experience in un untouched place, enjoying baths in the Mekong, beautiful walks or even bicycle rides in forest; ever-present rice fields are an ideal mirror for ancient temples and the amazing sunsets, while before sleeping nothing is more relaxing than balancing on a comfortable hammock, staring at the stars while the Mekong flows by…

If, after a few days, you have enough of this complete relax, or when you think to have explored each and every corner of the island you are lodging in, the high lands of Boulaven Plateau are just six hours by boat (heading north to Pakse) plus two more by bus (to Paksong) away.

What about sipping one of the world’s best coffee (the Plateau produces the famous Lao coffee, exported all over the world, especially in France), and buying plenty of freshly ground powder to bring home in the Lao coffee’s Mecca, i.e. the coffee market of Paksong? A few spoonful of coffee ground are put into a net and then dipped into hot water; after a while the creamy, sweet, strong Lao coffee will delight you, maybe with an extra spoon of condensed milk.

With that exquisite taste still in the mouth, you might then be eager to adventure once more into the jungle looking for Tat Fan water falls, 120 metres high, one of the highest of south-east asia, certainly one of the most spectacular ones. The path will lead you on the very edge of the cliff, get ready for a breath taking view!

Anything better than this? Maybe yes.

Southern Laos can still surprise you with the amazing Champasak temple. A Khmer site buried in the jungle, a kind of little (an much less visisted) Angkor, with surprisingly well preserved statues, temples, stairs. Originally a hindu temple, the Wat Phu in Champasak (whose age is still to be ascertained, though its most ancient parts are generally dated between 6^th and 8^th centuries) was then converted into a bouddhist site, nevertheless, statues of Hindu gods still was preserved. Climbing the stairs and walking between the remainings of such a glorious site, now invaded by trees, herbs and moss, conceives the feeling of the discovery.

A journey in Laos is a journey in the time, more than in the space.

Despite its wild, untouched nature, its treasures of art, its unforgettable landscapes, the strongest feeling that remains is the magic of the slowliness of its rhythm.

Lao live according to the eternal rhythm of the temple; the whole existence seems to flow away in the same way as the Mekong has been doing from the beginning of the times… and all that remains, is the serenity, the calm, the soothing smile of Lao people.

BY JENNA VAN SCHOOR

I hear the ggggr-king ca-chunk of the sliding door as I step out onto the balcony. There is a low hum of waves, voices and cars from La Rambla (promenade) below. The sea is unusually blueish today, and not the usual milky coffee brown. Montevideo, the capital port city of Uruguay, is just across the bay from Buenos Aires, where a hydro-collision of the Rio del Plata and Atlantic Ocean takes place.

I’m enjoying my own milky coffee instead from the vantage point of a white plastic chair and eighth floor view. Buses whirr past and pedestrians stroll across the grassy patches under the palm trees, or ride their bikes along the pavement. From here I can just see the road curving towards Pocitos beach, and to my right the uphill suburban artery of Calle 21 de Septiembre, known colloquially only as viente-uno (twenty-one).

Raven, the afro-haired American friend I am visiting, is inside at her round-tabled desk. At the end of a four-month exchange program at a local university, she is attempting to finish her final essay, but is really watching Obama speeches on YouTube instead. I know it’s only a matter of time before it’s mid-afternoon and she’s tired of procrastinating- the perfect time to take me capital city exploring instead.

Raven’s apartment is conveniently located along several bus routes, so it’s only a few minutes waiting time until the next one bound for Cuidad Vieja (Old Town). She has warned me that speed is key when getting into, and off, Montevideo city buses, and as the doors nearly cut me off I realize why. Sixteen pesos in correct change to the man on my left and we are on our way. Next to a conspicuously blonde English speaker, Raven looks like even more of a tourist.

I know this because she tells me, loudly, feeling all her fluent speaking Spanish skills become void as passengers stare. Many hold on to thermal flasks of hot water, and take sporadic sips of maté through bombillas (filter spoon-like straws). Maté, a bitter green drink that is also consumed in Argentina and Chile, seems to be the ultimate liquid necessity in Montevideo. There are even vending machine hot water dispensers at gas stations.

Several maté drinking passengers get off the bus before our stop. I take Raven’s advice and get off the bus faster this time, my feet barely making contact with the pavement before I feel the vacuum pull of the bus driving off again behind me. Sufficiently recovered, and gaining momentum as we dodge human pedestrian traffic, Raven leads me along Calle 18 de Julio (18 July).

Montevideo, like many other South American cities, names streets after major political events. In this case, Calle 18 de Julio commemorates the date Uruguay received its first constitution in 1830. As we walk along the busy street, we pass stores like Gucci, McDonalds, and the reliably inexpensive Indian Emporium, where Raven bought her current pair of grey plimsolls. She also points out Chivito d’Oro (Golden Chivito), which is rumoured to serve the best chivito in the city.

Chivito, along with faina and pizza with no cheese, are a few examples of lunch in Montevideo. Chivito is essentially a hamburger/sandwich, with a variety of fillings, from regular to canadiense (olives, egg, pickles, onions and bacon). Faina, a type of baked cornmeal, is normally served with a tomato relish, and preferentially with a shared bottle of 750ml Patricia beer or soft drink.

Hungry, we decide to eat in the Cuidad Vieja, but not before I am distracted by the towering art-deco style Salvo Palace at the end of Calle 18 de Julio, on the Plaza Independencia. The equestrian statue of liberation leader José Artigas also has a prominent place on the main square, above his well-guarded mausoleum.

From the Plaza Independencia we head past the trestle tables of antique jewellery, collectables, leather goods and maté paraphernalia in the Cuidad Vieja.  We don’t make it past the ice-cream parlour though. I choose a wafer cone with a double scoop of peanut butter and dulce de leche flavour, a caramel spread often eaten on bread for breakfast.

If I’d known, I would have opted for only one scoop, because in Montevideo a “scoop” really means “huge spadeful”. I don’t want to waste, and I can’t stop, the ice cream is just too rich and delicious. I finish the entire milky, biscuity mess, and feel suitably uncomfortable as we walk further into the Cuidad Vieja suburban streets. I notice the juxtaposition of modern square apartment blocks and graffiti scrawls on concrete walls and old-deco style buildings with balconies flying the victorious Frente party flag.

We head towards the pier, and sit for a while on the sun warmed concrete slabs next to the harbour. Our stomachs sick from lactose overload in the late afternoon sunshine. Raven tells me more about life in Montevideo, its idiosyncrasies and tranquilo (relaxed) feel. This is no more apparent when soon after we sat down three teenagers next to us sparked up a joint, tranquilo.

With the sweet smoky still lingering in my nostrils we make our way back up through the dusk-lit streets of the Cuidad Vieja, as people clip-clop past on horse drawn garbage carts and a little kid plays on a colourful plastic laptop in his front door step. A green neon lettered hanging sign advertises carnadas (bait) and reparacion de reels y cañas (repair of reels and reeds, or rather, rods).

A middle-aged man steps out from a corner bakery as we approach, one that probably sells syrupy sweet mini media-lunas (croissants) and neatly sealed empanadas, or savoury pastries. He shouts something vaguely comprehensible to me, but Raven understands.

“He just called you a French fry,” she says.

I laugh, not sure if this is a complement, and ignore any further jibes as we walk on, at a fair pace towards the post-work evening buzz of the main square. We repeat the bus-on, bus-off process until I am sitting in my white plastic chair again, watching the approach of darkness.

BY PAULINA SIERRA

I arrived to Santiago de Chile (www.lan.com) along with my mother and sister one night during the first days of last July, a winter month in the southern hemisphere. We went directly to our hotel, The Grand Hyatt Santiago located at Las Condes district. When planning our trip, we were advised to stay there without considering any other hotel option, and that we must make sure to book a room with a guaranteed view to The Andes. We went to sleep and the morning after, we understood immediately why all that insisting on us to follow the advice… We woke up before sunrise, and as we were getting ready for our day tour around the city, the morning light revealed upon our window one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen: the snowy peaks of The Andes surrounding the city like an old story fortress began to appear as daylight became stronger, offering us an unforgettable picture of a sky painted in pinks, oranges, purples and blues, making a perfect contrast with the whiteness of the mountains. So far I wasn’t even out of my hotel room, and I could already assure that the sight of the city guarded and protected by such a beautiful mountain range, had already made worthy my stay in Santiago.

After this breathtaking wake up, we had a delicious breakfast in the hotel, and then began our city tour. Our first stop was the government palace, known as Palacio de la Moneda, where we went to see the change of guard. Then we headed towards the Civic Centre, where the Main Square and other important historical and cultural buildings are located. Most of them are considered National Monuments, like the Cathedral, La Plaza de Armas, Santo Domingo’s Church, and The National History Museum building. It really called my attention what a clean and tidy city Santiago is. In downtown’s promenade, there are several public washrooms incredibly clean and safe, and the best part is that all of them are environmentally friendly! Even better than the tidiness of the streets and landmarks, what is still more remarkable, is the people of Santiago. Everybody is so polite, gentle and attentive, that the attitude of most of them reminds what many people living in big cities have already forgotten: the importance of being nice and kind even with strangers.

Once we visited all the major landmarks, we were taken to a lapis lazuli workshop. This blue semi-precious rock is very popular in Chile. In fact, this country has one of the most important deposits of lapis lazuli in the world, so it is considered a must to buy something made out of this beautiful rock when visiting Chile. We tasted the Pisco Sour, Chile’s national drink. It is a cocktail made of pisco (a liquor distilled from grapes), lemon juice, syrup and other ingredients. It tastes almost like margaritas…

Next we went to Santiago’s Metropolitan Park, located over a hill called Cerro San Cristóbal. It has a very beautiful panoramic sight of the whole city and it also offers many outdoor attractions. It has a botanical garden which includes a very important exhibit of indigenous flora.

The city tour finished near noon, so we had half day to keep touring around. Our first choice was to stay in Santiago and go to the Central Market, very famous for the quality, freshness and price of the seafood they sell there; it is especially popular for the Centolla King Crab everybody loves. Nevertheless, we decided to make the most out of our only afternoon here by going over to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar.

The first stop was in Valparaíso, one of the biggest seaports and a very relevant cultural centre. At first sight, the truth is that I didn’t understand quite well what my impression of the city was. I couldn’t say that it was very pretty because it looks a little dirty and messy, but at the same time there is something out there that makes it very interesting and somehow picturesque. I read on the Lan Chile’s airplane magazine an article that recommended very much a tour in this port to visit the workshops of many of the great number of artists that live there. It came to my attention because it started saying that if Valparaíso was the place where Ruben Darío dreamed about his poems, Pablo Neruda built his home La Sebastiana, and many famous painters were inspired there thanks to coincidence or because of its views, it didn’t matter at all… the point was that Valparaíso had that special something that could inspire anyone. Indeed, it is a very popular and visited site, so I guess it really has a very unique charm that can’t be found elsewhere.  The narrow and curvy streets are full of urban art and plaques with poems fragments in every corner, and a bohemian spirit is sensed almost everywhere around. At the end I could say that I liked the place, but it takes a little time to inspire and sense all that magic artists and visitors talk about.

Viña del Mar is cleaner and organized than Valparaíso. It has many modern beachfront buildings and an interesting Rapa-Nui museum. This city hosts the Viña del Mar International Song Festival, considered the most important musical event in Latin America; it takes place every February at the Quinta Vergara Amphitheatre.

When we got back to Santiago, we went to have dinner to one of most unique places ever. Boragó is owned and managed by the chef Rodolfo Guzmán, and it is considered one of the best restaurants in all Latin America. The chef also has biochemistry skills, and his food creations are known as “molecular cuisine”. The restaurant stands out for using only Chilean endemic products, applying the best scientific and cuisine knowledge to create the most unusual, exotic and delicious dishes. The chef’s idea is to evoke with his creations all of the country’s landscapes and regions, helped by the flavours and plate presentations. The restaurant’s concept is by far the most original I’ve known about. The combination of flavours, colours and textures is amazing, it is not only an unbeatable experience for taste, but also for all the other senses. Definitely this place is also a must in Santiago, no one visiting the city can miss the chance of this extraordinary dinner experience.

After dinner, we went to sleep. The next day we were going to begin the Lake Crossing trip from Chile to Argentina.

BY LAURA CANEPA

Maybe Phil Collins didn’t sing about the Inca, but in the days that mountains possessed both body and spirit, the immense Tunupa volcano was then a splendid woman who fell in love with Cusco, a strong and beautiful mountain: they decided to marry, and in brevity their first son was born.

However, the joy did not last long as Cusco had fallen into the seductive grasp of Cosuna, the fascinating adjacent mountain. When Tunupa discovered the betrayal, he became enraged and wanted revenge – thus striking out at the most important and beloved thing to Cusco’s heart, their recently born son.

In her despair and with a breast swollen of milk, she dug a basin in the valley and slowly poured the milk in, creating the “Salar de Uyuni”. The world’s largest salt lake.

Salar de Uyuni is a visually captivating place, one of the most stunningly beautiful places you will ever come across in South America.

Covering an area of over 12,000 square km, some 40,000 years ago the region was covered by the giant salt Lake Minchin and nowadays is a reserve of 10 billion tons of salt.

The desert can be crossed by 4×4 and, necessarily, with a guide (my suggestion is Mister Epi employed by Cordillera Traveller, based in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile), where during a trip of 3 days you will pass by surreal visions created by amazing geological formations, geothermal springs and brine coloured lakes. This S. American adventure looks something like this.

1st Day. Departure from San Pedro de Atacama at 08:00 AM – by minibus – to the Bolivian border (at 4.400 m above sea level) where the 18 passengers are shifted to three 4WD jeeps.

During the first day the group is in the Bolivian high plain visiting such wonderful places as Laguna Verde (an incredible green lagoon) and Laguna Blanca (white lagoon), located at the bottom of Licancabur Volcano, continuing to Daly Desert where it’s possible to admire a surrealistic landscape, thermal water pools, Sol de Mañana geysers –intermittent springs coming up at a 90º C– and fumaroles, and cracks with emerging volcanic lava.

The first day’s journey ends up at Laguna Colorada (coloured lagoon), the main nesting centre for more than 30,000 pink flamingos of 3 different species. The night is spent in a “folk” building (rooms for 6 people/each) in the middle of what can best be described as nowhere: a brilliant experience that you share with the other global trekkers.

2nd Day. During the second day the trip includes the Siloli Desert and the Stone forest, high plain coloured lagoons, Chiguana salt flat, ending the day in Chuvica village where you’ll find the De Sal Hotel – a hotel completely built out of salt, furniture included.

3rd Day. Finally the incredible salt desert! After visiting Pescado (fish) Island – located in the middle of the salt flat with a formation of chalky rocks, coral and seashell traces – and Pueblo Chico – located at the limits of the Uyuni desert – the tour then winds up at Uyuni City, a typical Bolivian village famous for its colour filled market.

That’s it, tour of the Salar de Uyuni over? Not really, at this point you have 2 options: a) go to Macchu Picchu, in Peru or b) head back to Chile but with a different itinerary, if b is your choice of choice, try spending the night in a surrealistic village named Villa Mar.

Either way, you’ll be sure to enjoy it.

Pamplona City Square

BY RICK WOOD

Pamplona or Iruña as it’s known in the local Basque tongue is a city known for the running of the bulls where each year slews of American tourists wind up hospitalized and partially tax the Spanish health care system. Oh wouldn’t San Fermín be proud.

But aside from all the bull(s), Pamplona is a great town to get lost in for a weekend, so before heading out pick up a Hemingway Novel – get drunk on words and then get drunk on cider for which the Basque country is know for.

The old city is magnificent, a mixture of Franco-Iberic Architecture, and being perched atop a hill makes the vistas of the surrounding areas worth taking in. The Casall palace is most amazing, as is the old fort which is worth a visit. As is the Pamplona Cathedral and the San Lorenzo Chuch which are all withing walking distance of the city centre. There is also a monument and if I’m not mistaken, a museum, or centre devoted to the victims of terrorism. You’ll find that many directly oppose ETA, and think it’s harmful to their land, but still, tread lightly.

And although Pamplona has only recently started growing into a larger city, it’s metropolitan area only encompasses 300k residents. Meaning a two day relaxing escape to the city is more than sufficient, if you have three days however, or four, it’s highly recommended to head up to majestic San Sebastian which aside from being a great surfing spot is absolutely and unconditionally breathtaking.

In terms of eats, the  Basques eat a bit different than the Castillians (Madrileños), and the feat to eat is typically Pintxos, little pieces of baguette, with some kind of yummy foodstuff on top skewered with a toothpick (hence the name pintxo), these are typically eaten standing up with a bit of local cider, bitter but yummy. Should be noted, that you pay per skewer.

Aside from that, there is a specific specialty to Pamplona, this is Txilidron, or in Castillian Spanish, Cordero al chilindrón, a lamb type dish which is simply del-icious. And once you’ve eaten to your hears desire, I’d recommend checking out two last things, one being the bull rink (below), and some of the statues, and other material devoted to Hemingway – that is – if you’re a fan.

The Last thing you'll see before you're trampled

BY YETUNDE OSHODI

Coming to Paris often means having to possibly do some serious saving or some serious compromising when it comes to accommodations. Hotel prices can be hefty if you want a little more than a box to sleep in. Even some of the higher priced hotels may still only offer beautiful but tight spaces.

However should you wish to consider an alternative to hotels that will let you have more space, more freedom and truly feel like a local for a brief period of time, why not check out short-term apartment rentals as a great alternative and here’s the rub, you are certainly not spoiled for choice.

In the Parisian market we feel that one small company stands out primarily due to its amazing service. This gem is called “Feels Like Home in Paris”.

Started in 2005, Feels Like Home in Paris has been offering vacation rental apartments ranging from studio to 2 bedrooms located mainly in Montmartre, Paris’ Bohemian northern district as well as properties in the 9th, 10th and 11th district.

Here’s what Feels Like Home has to say about themselves: “The Feels Like Home in Paris method of hospitality comes with a personal touch – From the email correspondences to the meet and greet, you’ll be sure to feel the difference. Our hope is that we somehow manage to transfer our passion for what we do and where we live, to help set you off on the right foot to a wonderful holiday in Paris.

Your stay in Paris starts off with an introduction to your comfortable, relaxing apartment by a local (that’s us), to help you feel like a native. From finding the local boulangerie or utilizing the bus instead of just the metro, you will feel at ease after the brief but thorough orientation.

Our welcome book has all the information you will need about food shopping, local restaurants and more. We provide you with a welcome basket full of special goodies to get you started on an enjoyable Parisian experience – wine, French biscuits, jams, coffee and more.

We hope to be able to provide you with the opportunity to create long-lasting memories here in Paris, as we have.”

Long story short, the guests seem to have a similar take on the service. i.e.

The service is superb, the agency people are very nice, the apartment is well equipped and had a fantastic view. This crew really deliver their promise: we felt home in Paris! - Jeroen

After trolling through the myriad of websites of Parisian accommodation, I came across the Feels Like Home website and knew immediately they had what we were looking for. The French Flair apartment was perfect for our 2 day stay in Paris! – Celia

But don’t take it from us, check out Feels Like Home in Paris for your next trip to the city on the Seine.

BY TANIA HOROUPIAN

During your next stop in Lausanne, Switzerland, take a gastronomic trip around the world with a visit to Kai Zen Restaurant. Open since May of 2007, Kai Zen is located in the heart of the city and offers a menu and wine list with flavours from some of the world’s most exciting destinations.

What can you expect? A laid-back start to your night with a drink in Kai Zen’s “see and be seen” lounge. With a backdrop of music ranging from lounge to nu-jazz, funk to house, it’s the perfect way to start your evening with friends, work colleagues or that “special someone”. Enjoy a beverage from the elaborate drink menu that provides a great choice of traditional classics, signature cocktails, beers and wines (Mission Reserva – Carmenere from Chili is a personal favourite…). For those of you who prefer your drinks non-alcoholic, there is also an extensive range of options for you, such as the Paris (raspberries, strawberries, lemon and cranberry) or New York (white peach, lemon and red bull) Coolers. After your apéro, head into the red-themed dining lounge, where you can watch the talented kitchen staff at work through a floor-to-ceiling glass wall and enjoy a décor of unique artwork hanging on the walls (yes, available for sale). For your meal, pick a selection of entrées, main courses and desserts from one of the five themed menus, where the options are based on traditional flavours and favourites from New York, Paris, Rome, Tokyo or Bangkok. Or – if you’re feeling adventurous – shake things up by mixing and matching from the different menus. How about an appetizer from Bangkok, an entrée from New York and a dessert from Paris? Author recommends the Yam Kung Ya (gambas salad with nuoc mam vinaigrette – hard to pronounce but incredible to eat…), the “Giselle Bundchen” burger (a delicious ratio of beef and bun and also – let’s face it – the closest you’ll ever get to her…) and the Fondant au Chocolate (flowing dark chocolate and a layer of raspberry. Enough said). Top off the night with a digestif and you’re officially set for the rest of your evening in the night scene of Lausanne.

Have two nights in the city? Head over to Le Bedroom, Kai Zen’s brand new sister restaurant, located in Lausanne’s trendy “Flon” district. Opened in late 2009, it features the same sexy décor and atmosphere as Kai Zen, with the added feature of large couch bankettes and oversized pillows, where you can enjoy a cocktail, live music and the company of friends before sitting down to a great meal of international tapas and a range of classic and innovative entrées.

Add some flavour to your next visit in Lausanne with a trip to Kai Zen. Your tastebuds, friends  – and wallet – will thank you!

Contact:

Rue Pépinet 3, 1003 Lausanne
T: +41 21 310 8484
F: +41 21 310 8481

Photo by Tullia Vitturi-Lochra

BY PROJECTRAVEL

As some of you may have seen, we launched two new blogs yesterday, Rio de Janeiro, and San Francisco, and as such we’d like to introduce you to our two new bloggers.

Nara vidal is writing about Rio de Janeiro and the surrounding areas, and you can find her first post here.

Is it late to wish you a happy new year?

After a number of consecutive NYE celebrations in Europe, it came as a refreshingly good idea spending NYE in hot Rio de Janeiro. And so I did. And it was as wonderful as I thought it was going to be.

No, it was not my first Rio NYE. I am Brazilian after all! I lived in Rio for a long time. Not long enough to stop me going back with nostalgia and thirst to be a carioca again. The special element of this NYE was the fact that we were celebrating the arrival of 2010.

Yes, nothing new about that. However, I was in Rio when I was celebrating the arrival of 2000. Then I remember asking my private gods and angels to give me a future somewhere distant, places to travel and a love from far away. Of all new year’s resolutions, I suppose finding a new love is the one everyone secretly hopes for, but they cite shaping up instead, so they do not look like total losers when the year ends and they are still single or with an empty heart – worse than being single. (read more)

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But what about San Francisco? Well what about it? Here’s an excerpt from the San Fran blog’s first post.

Photo courtesy Wikimedia

The City That Knows How

San Francisco has earned itself countless nicknames throughout its 230-year history (“Paris of the West”, “Baghdad by the Bay”, the cringe-inducing “Frisco”), but perhaps none quite so vague as William Taft’s “The city that knows how”.  What Taft meant at the time, I haven’t a clue, but no title more specific would succeed in capturing the broad and elusive nature of the city.

The variety of rich subcultures of food, art, literature, music, and more, that thrive within the city’s 49 square miles, allow for a largely subjective experience.  In search of solace, it is home to the warmth of independent coffee shops and musty second-hand bookstores. (read more)

And with that, happy reading.

BY JACINTO VIDRÓ

Cradled away at the foot of the Pyrenees lies the small village of Rupit, but unlike other Catalan villages in and around the foot of the mountains Rupit is truly a unique piece of rock.

Why rock? Well, because most of the village is carved out of it, simply put the streets are carved out of the side of the mountain and the medieval buildings that compromise the hamlet are picturesque, as is the hanging bridge that gives you access to the town.

Many of the shops in town are filled with varying local delicacies and the mountain cheese and regional sausages are of absolutely the highest quality.

The church of Sant Joan de Fàbregues and its castle are documented from the year 968. The church, which was the main church of the municipality, is located about 3 km from the castle. In the XII century, the town grew around the castle of Rupit. Noble families built a new church, Sant Miquel, where they had built their houses. This church now is the parish church.

In 1959 the municipality was officially named Rupit. In 1977, the hamlet of Pruit was united with Rupit village.

In origin both the hamlet of Pruit and the village of Rupit already shared the same jurisdiction under the viscount of Osona. According to the tradition, he lived in the castle of Rupit before moving to Cardona.

Nowadays Rupit is best known as a tourist town, because of its medieval appearance, stone houses and street made of natural rock. There are also interesting walks and sightseeing around the village and nearby cliffs.

The “Riera de Rupit” is a small river running through Rupit and forms the Sallent waterfall when it meets the cliffs. There is a hanging bridge which provides access the center of the village.

Getting There: The best way to get to Rupit is to drive, don’t take local busses don’t take coaches from Barcelona or Girona, hire a car and drive. The road to the village is beautiful, but windy, so do be caregul.

Staying There: There are a number of local B&B’s in and around the town, but we’d like to recommend Hotel Estrella – a wonderful place, with a friendly staff, and great service.

What to do: Rupit is by no means a large town, and can easily be seen in a few hours, as such we recommend using what the nature around you has to offer. If you go during the summer, you can always go hiking in the mountains o visit the lake at Puigcerda, in the winter, skiing is just and hour away, and the scenery covered in snow is absolutely breathtaking.

After all is said and done, I wouldn’t recommend staying in Rupit any more than a weekend however, while it does have something very special to offer, it is small, and during certain seasons can get packed with tourists which in all can make your stay less than enjoyable. But as a weekend getaway during the right time of year, it just can’t be beat.

BY PROJECTRAVEL

Barcelona Clubs have grouped together to help the people of Haiti. As we are all aware by now the earthquake measuring 7.0 on the Richter Scale struck the Carribean Island Causing devastating damage, and killing thousands of people.

In an effort to help those affected by the quake Barcelona nightclub owners, led by Grupo Foc together commited to donating the 10% of their turnover for January 20th towards Haiti Aid. Grupo Foc, the concept creators have also pledged to donate € 1 for each person who becomes a member of the Barcelona for Haiti Group and comes out on the 20th to support the cause. As such, if you’re in BCNa and have a Facebook account, please join, and please help.

As of Saturday, the 16th of January 2009, the following nightclubs have committed to the aid movement for the 20th.

They Include, Foc, Gran Foc, Shoko, Magnolia, Q-Bar, and Bar 15.

Taking the call of this initiative, Plain White Paper, Limited, our publisher and that of F3Fundit has decided to donate 5% of it’s revenues from the 20th of January to the ICRC.

So if you’re in Barcelona this coming week, we urge you to go out and support this noble cause. All the same, please consider donating to any of the following organizations.

1. UNICEF has opened donations specifically for those affected by the quake. For more information, please click here.

2. The ICRC and the Red Cross were one of the first non governmental organizations to extend aid to the victims of the earthquake in Haiti. The ICRC has also been working in Haiti without interruption since 1994 and their long standing presence in the country makes it one of the top options for donation.

3. Intermon Oxfam has always been at the forefront of Global Aid, and you can donate to their operation for Haitian relief in various international currencies by clicking here.

4. Like most other major aid organizations the Mercy Corps has developed a site specifically for the Earthquake victims, the donation page can be located by clicking here.

5. Wyclef Jean’s Yéle Haiti Organization is another organization that is collecting public money in order to bring aid into the country; for Earthquake Specific Donations – please click here.