Inside the Temples of Cambodia
BY HOLLY ONG
You can’t visit Cambodia and not see Angkor Wat – it would be like going to Paris for the first time and not going to the Louvre.
Cambodia was part of the Indochina region and was ruled by a string of Khmer and Cham kings between the 12th and 16th centuries. During that time, the ruling dynasties tried to outdo the last and build even more impressive temples with Hindu or Buddhist influences, depending upon which religion was in favour at the time.
‘Wat’ is actually the local term for temples. You may think Angkor Wat is the only wat but it’s a misnomer as there is more than one temple in the compound to see. Angkor Wat is just the largest and most well-preserved, – which of course means that it is also filled with wandering tourists.
However, if you’re a photo buff or culture vulture, you’re in for a visual treat. Wander around and get lost in a maze of temple ruins. Let your imagination soar and dream of kingdoms that once were. Re-live a time where a mere mortal was accorded demi-god status and marvel at the architectural geniuses who built to honour their gods. Talk to roaming monks in orange robes and watch out for monkeys.
When in the temples: be considerate about noise levels and don’t talk too loudly, – listen to the jungle cicada symphony and drink in the silent beauty of the bas reliefs on the temple walls. You can’t avoid the sheep-herded tour groups in the most visited wats (Angkor Wat and Bayon) but they are in a rush to finish so let them go ahead and take your time.Visit the lesser-known temples like Ta Prohm to see where giant silk cotton trees wrap their roots around temples and rise high into the sky.
Whilst it’s possible to see the main temples in one day, you run the danger of being watted-out. You’ve already come so far – so take the three day pass option at US$50 and build up a slow routine. Have breakfast, hop on the motor-cab, wander through a temple or two, head back to town, lunch, swim, shop and eat dinner before beginning the process all over again.
TRAVEL, MONEY & FOOD
Motor-cabs are the main mode of transport and cost about USD$10-20 a day– depending on your bargaining skills. Agree on a price before getting on and pay at the end of the day.
Siem Reap isn’t the cheapest town in developing South East Asia. But you do not need to change any local currency; carry US Dollars, Euros are not as popular but acceptable. While it’s possible to get USD$1 meals, the arrival of affluent tourists means you can spend USD$6 and up for a meal. Most of the restaurants in the Old Town are owned by enterprising foreigners, so finding a real Cambodian-owned joint may be difficult – but not impossible – look out for signs. Vegetarians will be able to get by; vegans may be a bit tricky. If you have reactions against monosodium glutamate (MSG), be careful as it’s a condiment used very freely.
You can buy souvenirs like the Cambodian checkered scarves at the Old Market. You’ll need to bargain though. Alternatively, you can shop with conscience by checking out places like Artisans d’Angkor where you certainly pay a premium for much finer products, but you’re helping support local artisans.
TEMPLE ETIQUETTE
Wear comfortable shoes as there are considerable grounds to cover and steep steps to climb. For female visitors, don’t be too scantily clad as it’s still a religious compound you’re visiting.
When approached by vendors: be kind and don’t quibble over USD$ 1. Many Cambodians have a hard life and tourism is their main revenue generator. Touts abound and a firm no is acceptable. Little tout kids speaking in German, French, English, Korean and Chinese all imploring you to buy may seem cute but don’t bargain unless you have intent to buy.
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