Kathmandu
Swayumbunath
BY JOSEPH THOMAS
Kathmandu
As the ruthless tentacles of globalisation continue to find their way in to the nooks and crannies of our diverse world, one of the major problems for travellers is repetition. The search for something new, something different, something that you look at for the first time and your jaw drops in an amazed bewilderment because it is so different to anything that you have ever seen before is a challenging one, but a noble quest nonetheless. If escaping the dreary skyscrapers and rampant commercialism of the Western world is your aim, then Kathmandu is good place to start.
Nestled between the Asian giants of India and China, Nepal is a magical land where the jagged peaks of the Himalayas roll down to the humid south of jungles and Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. Kathmandu is the centrepiece of this intriguing country, and now that the civil unrest of the 1990s is over the Nepali capital is a rough diamond waiting to be explored. Kathmandu is a city that inspires excitement and from the moment you cross the immigration checkpoint of Tribhuvan airport your heartbeat gathers a frenetic pace as you and your bags are ambushed by smiling faces enthusiastically pulling you in all directions-towards taxis, hotels and buses. Entering Kathmandu can be an overwhelming experience – seemingly generous and overzealous helpers are of course looking for tips from the perplexed traveller – but it must not let you colour the city and its people in a negative light.
The airport is a reasonably short taxi ride from Thamel, to which tourists normally head first. Peering through the numerous lanes of traffic following no rules whatsoever the poverty is striking as the taxi heads through the suburbs. Scruffy children, collapsed doorways and rubbish everywhere will be your first images of this sprawling city but if you look closely, everyone is smiling. Kathmandu is not a particularly pretty city, nor is it a rich one, but it is brimming with culture and entertainment and most importantly, friendly people who are generally keen to let you gain an insight into their way of living.
Market stalls in Durbar Square
Thamel is made up of a handful of narrow streets lined with hotels, hostels and restaurants, all vying for foreign custom. The district is geared solely for tourism and it is important that you look outside of this little comfort zone to see the real life of the city, but it is certainly worthwhile basing yourself in this area of clean hotels and reasonably Western amenities. If this inspires fears of expenses then think again; Nepal is one of the cheapest countries in the world. Even in tourist areas expect to find a decent room for under ten pounds a night and, other than in restaurants, every price is there to be haggled with.
Kathmandu is a city overflowing with different cultures and religions and all of them make their impression on the city. Nepal is predominately Hindu and evidence for this can be easily found in the vivid red tikkas that are smeared on the foreheads of locals, and the reverence shown to the cows that wander the streets without obstacle. The focal point of Kathmandu is Durbar Square, which is unlike the main square of any European city. The equestrian statues of ancient monarchs are replaced by towering pagoda palaces and intricately carved impressions of Hindu deities. Nepalis are unafraid to show their religious fervour at times of celebration and one of the best times of the year to go is during Holi, the celebration of oncoming spring, when the city descends into a chaotic water and paint fight that anyone is welcome to enjoy. A more sombre insight into Hindu tradition can be gathered at the temple of Pashupatinath, located just outside Kathmandu but like all of the city sites relatively cheap and easily accessible via taxi. This pilgrimage site is a place of Hindu cremation but whilst fascinating, the sight of burning bodies on the funeral pyres is not for the faint-hearted.
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