Laos, Mekong, ten thousands islands and more
BY NICOLA APORTI
Living in Shanghai is exciting: most, if not all, Shanghai’s expats (as well as, of course, real Shanghainese) will share this view.
Nevertheless, nature and green spaces are indeed something missing in Shanghai. There are a few parks; most streets in the French Concession are sidelined with trees, but still the prevailing feeling is being suffocated by buildings, cement, cars, people…
When, after a long spell on the Yangtze Delta, this feeling of physical oppression becomes too strong … it’s time to head southwards!
Laos is not far away from Shanghai: a little more than one hour to go to Kunming, a little less then two to arrive in Vientiane – and to understand, once you have arrived there, that you must have crossed some invisible borders and have entered a new world.
1. Vientiane , the capital
Vientiane welcomes you with what is supposed to be the quietest and less busy airport of the world, and you might find yourself as the only one wandering in its aisles looking for the info desk where a friendly lady might interrupt her nap to provide you with the list of hotels you were asking for.
Vientiane is the capital of Laos, although it is a little bizarre thinking that this lay-down city, with more trees than buildings where, except for a tall hotel on the Mekong, I would say no building has more than 4 floors, is a Country’s capital.
Walking dows its roads, tuk-tuks queue up to pick up tourists as well as local villagers returning to their homes after a market day; sometimes you might encounter some of those vehicles parked on the side of the street, the driver sleeping and loudly snoring on his seat, and you might feel unconfortable to wake him up asking for a ride.
The whole city is spread on the right bank of Mekong river, this huge snake crawling from the high plateau of Tibet down through the whole Indochina, and marking the border with Thailand, which stands just in front of the drowsy capital of Laos.
The promenade on the Mekong is something unexpected. Nothing monumental or solemn; rather, an “off-the-beaten track” muddy path, not wide enough to allow two people to walk side by side, passing through small stands offering local food to be eaten sitting the Lao way on matterasses on the floor, staring at Mekong’s eternal stream.
The city has indeed some interesting feature: the Pha That Luang, the most important national monumnent, the That Dam (or black stupa) and many other Wat temples, all in the typical Lao style.
A little french taste still remains in a few colonial style houses, in a few boulangeries, and in what is an asian version of the Champs Elysees…
Beside this, maybe one of Vientiane’s the biggest surprises is its nightlife. Which, simply, does not exist.
A law passed by Laos’government imposes a curfew all over the Country: after 11.30 any kind of shop, retaurant, disco, etc shall close.
This causes discos to open at 8.30 pm and close at 11,30 (!), but the main effect is that streets are empy and mostly unlit after 11 pm.
Only a couple of dodgy places make exception, one being situated within the biggest and tallest Hotel of the city, on the Mekong’s bank, gathering basically two kind of people – curious tourists looking for a couple of extra beers and hookers.
This city is living at the same slow pace as the whole Country, and it is interesting to notice that the few evident signals of development all bear the “made in China” label: the biggest shopping mall of the Country has just been inaugurated in August 2007, needless to say with Chinese capital (almost all of the available space has been allocated to Chinese stores). Entrepreneurs from Yunnan, Hunan and elsewhere in China are little by little streming into Laos to set up small factories, or even just to sell their made in China products… just take a look at the Talat Sao market, where most of tpyical Laos handicraft products are made in China!
2. Going North
A couple of days in Vientiane is pretty enough to appreciate this city, and to get more familiar with this Country. After this, moving north is a great way to get really into it!
Vang Viengh well deserves to be the first stop. Situated just 150 km away form Vientiane, this tiny village is nested in between a wonderful limestone area. The landscape is magic and primordial, with bizarrely-shaped hills, jungle and wild rivers offering un unforgettable scenario.
No wonders that Vang Viengh has become one of the most popular tourist destination in Laos; and, being Laos a backpacker’s paridise, no wonders for Vang Vieng being a must for hippies looking for some fun in one of the countless pubs providing happy food, happy drinks and happy shakes!
Something not to be missed in Vang Viengh is tubing: it is possible to rent tubes and to jump in the Nam Song river, being carried for a couple of hours by the stream through wild scenarios; by the way, it is nice to have a (happy) beer-stop in one of the numerous pubs recently opened on the banks, in some of whom you can enjoy the experience of jumping into the river holding to a rope – the Tarzan’s way.
When Vang Viengh has given you the amount of adrenaline you were looking for, and you feel happy enough, next stop shall be Luang Prabang, the old capital, one of the most beautiful cities in Asia.
Perched at the confluence of the Nam Khan river into Mekong, this small city is literally the heart of Laos’ culture.
Dating back as of the 8th century AD, it reached its most glorious epoque until the 16th century, when it used to be called “the city of gold” and was the prosperous capital of Lan Xan kingdom.
The city hosts a surprising number of Wats, most of whom of ancient origin and concealing buddhist art treasures. The Wat Xieng Thong is doubtless the most beautiful temple of the city, and maybe of the whole country, but all over the oldest part of Luang Prabang – a tiny peninsula between its two rivers – art’s masterpieces sprawl, in a relaxed atmosphere where old french-colonial buildings, ancient gilded temples and the typical Lao wooden houses coexist next to eachother.
Buddhism might be the soul of Laos; for sure it is Luang Prabang’s. The streets are teeming with shaven-heads, orange-dressed monks, and one of the strongest experiences to live is to attend the daily morning ryth of the alm.
At 5 am thousands of monks, queuing up on the street side, invade every corner of the city in a silent procession. They stop at every house, gently knock at the door, wait for somebody to open and to offer them some rice, some food, or better some kips or baths, all being stucked in the same jar.
The ryth ends with the monk blessing the believer.
This ryth is central in the Lao people culture, and all the population takes part in it.
In fact bouddhism – after a few years of ban – has now been fully re-acceptedand re-collocated in its original pivot position in Lao culture and society, as fundamental element of social cohesion and identity : for instance, it is the morning ryth of giving the alm to monks that officially provided the reason to the cur-few after 11.30 pm.
Luang Prabang is on the way to reach some of Laos most amazing wild areas, including Luang Nam Tha in the far north, close to the border with China.
From this village it is possible to leave for amazing one, two and even three day trekkings in the jungle, tasting the unique contact with an un-touched nature and with isolated communities living in unaccessible villages.
Most of this minorities have very little contact with foreigners, and tourists should be very discrete when approaching them. These tribes being animist, clap of hands or stamping feet on the ground are believed to perturbate the spirits, therefore this kind of behaviour should be avoided.
If jungle is one of the main feature of Laos, the other one is for sure the Mekong, Indochina’s big river.
Laos is, simply, a gift of Mekong.
This river provides fish, water for the fields and the lush forests but mainly this river is indeed one of the worlds’ longest highways: lacking of main long distance roads, Laos relies on Mekong for transportation between main cities and, most of all, small villages, otherwise impossible to reach.
From the northern border with Thailand, in the remote village of Huay Xay, starts one of the most beautiful navigations on the Mekong. With the slow boat, Luang Prabang, roughy 200 km southwards, will be reached in 2 days and one night.
The route sneaks through inaccessible spots, useless to say covered by the most untouched vegetation.
Except for a few fishermen, precariously perched on their long, thin boats, so motionless to seem completely melted with the surrounding landscape, and some occasional villages showing their roofs through the vegetation, no other sign of human life is perceivable.
The night will be spent in the isolated village of Pak Beng, with nothing else to do but staring at the sun that spreads its last beams on the mountains and on the crispy surface of the river.
3. Ten thousand islands…
A gift of Mekong…
This is particularly the case for the marvellous archipelago of Siphandon, at Laos’s southern border with Cambodia.
The river is here 14 km wide, in his riverbed hosts more than 10.000 islands, in Lao language called si phan don, indeed.
The islands are a peaceful shelter for travellers, tourism appearing to become more and more important as revenue for the local community.
Little running water and electricity may scare those more dependent on comfort, but the prize for the brave ones is great: a real Lao experience in un untouched place, enjoying baths in the Mekong, beautiful walks or even bicycle rides in forest; ever-present rice fields are an ideal mirror for ancient temples and the amazing sunsets, while before sleeping nothing is more relaxing than balancing on a comfortable hammock, staring at the stars while the Mekong flows by…
If, after a few days, you have enough of this complete relax, or when you think to have explored each and every corner of the island you are lodging in, the high lands of Boulaven Plateau are just six hours by boat (heading north to Pakse) plus two more by bus (to Paksong) away.
What about sipping one of the world’s best coffee (the Plateau produces the famous Lao coffee, exported all over the world, especially in France), and buying plenty of freshly ground powder to bring home in the Lao coffee’s Mecca, i.e. the coffee market of Paksong? A few spoonful of coffee ground are put into a net and then dipped into hot water; after a while the creamy, sweet, strong Lao coffee will delight you, maybe with an extra spoon of condensed milk.
With that exquisite taste still in the mouth, you might then be eager to adventure once more into the jungle looking for Tat Fan water falls, 120 metres high, one of the highest of south-east asia, certainly one of the most spectacular ones. The path will lead you on the very edge of the cliff, get ready for a breath taking view!
Anything better than this? Maybe yes.
Southern Laos can still surprise you with the amazing Champasak temple. A Khmer site buried in the jungle, a kind of little (an much less visisted) Angkor, with surprisingly well preserved statues, temples, stairs. Originally a hindu temple, the Wat Phu in Champasak (whose age is still to be ascertained, though its most ancient parts are generally dated between 6th and 8th centuries) was then converted into a bouddhist site, nevertheless, statues of Hindu gods still was preserved. Climbing the stairs and walking between the remainings of such a glorious site, now invaded by trees, herbs and moss, conceives the feeling of the discovery.
A journey in Laos is a journey in the time, more than in the space.
Despite its wild, untouched nature, its treasures of art, its unforgettable landscapes, the strongest feeling that remains is the magic of the slowliness of its rhythm.
Lao live according to the eternal rhythm of the temple; the whole existence seems to flow away in the same way as the Mekong has been doing from the beginning of the times… and all that remains, is the serenity, the calm, the soothing smile of Lao people.
Kathmandu
Swayumbunath
BY JOSEPH THOMAS
Kathmandu
As the ruthless tentacles of globalisation continue to find their way in to the nooks and crannies of our diverse world, one of the major problems for travellers is repetition. The search for something new, something different, something that you look at for the first time and your jaw drops in an amazed bewilderment because it is so different to anything that you have ever seen before is a challenging one, but a noble quest nonetheless. If escaping the dreary skyscrapers and rampant commercialism of the Western world is your aim, then Kathmandu is good place to start.
Nestled between the Asian giants of India and China, Nepal is a magical land where the jagged peaks of the Himalayas roll down to the humid south of jungles and Lumbini, the birthplace of Buddha. Kathmandu is the centrepiece of this intriguing country, and now that the civil unrest of the 1990s is over the Nepali capital is a rough diamond waiting to be explored. Kathmandu is a city that inspires excitement and from the moment you cross the immigration checkpoint of Tribhuvan airport your heartbeat gathers a frenetic pace as you and your bags are ambushed by smiling faces enthusiastically pulling you in all directions-towards taxis, hotels and buses. Entering Kathmandu can be an overwhelming experience – seemingly generous and overzealous helpers are of course looking for tips from the perplexed traveller – but it must not let you colour the city and its people in a negative light.
The airport is a reasonably short taxi ride from Thamel, to which tourists normally head first. Peering through the numerous lanes of traffic following no rules whatsoever the poverty is striking as the taxi heads through the suburbs. Scruffy children, collapsed doorways and rubbish everywhere will be your first images of this sprawling city but if you look closely, everyone is smiling. Kathmandu is not a particularly pretty city, nor is it a rich one, but it is brimming with culture and entertainment and most importantly, friendly people who are generally keen to let you gain an insight into their way of living.
Market stalls in Durbar Square
Thamel is made up of a handful of narrow streets lined with hotels, hostels and restaurants, all vying for foreign custom. The district is geared solely for tourism and it is important that you look outside of this little comfort zone to see the real life of the city, but it is certainly worthwhile basing yourself in this area of clean hotels and reasonably Western amenities. If this inspires fears of expenses then think again; Nepal is one of the cheapest countries in the world. Even in tourist areas expect to find a decent room for under ten pounds a night and, other than in restaurants, every price is there to be haggled with.
Kathmandu is a city overflowing with different cultures and religions and all of them make their impression on the city. Nepal is predominately Hindu and evidence for this can be easily found in the vivid red tikkas that are smeared on the foreheads of locals, and the reverence shown to the cows that wander the streets without obstacle. The focal point of Kathmandu is Durbar Square, which is unlike the main square of any European city. The equestrian statues of ancient monarchs are replaced by towering pagoda palaces and intricately carved impressions of Hindu deities. Nepalis are unafraid to show their religious fervour at times of celebration and one of the best times of the year to go is during Holi, the celebration of oncoming spring, when the city descends into a chaotic water and paint fight that anyone is welcome to enjoy. A more sombre insight into Hindu tradition can be gathered at the temple of Pashupatinath, located just outside Kathmandu but like all of the city sites relatively cheap and easily accessible via taxi. This pilgrimage site is a place of Hindu cremation but whilst fascinating, the sight of burning bodies on the funeral pyres is not for the faint-hearted.
ProjecTravel’s Guide to Crossing Borders in Developing Nations
Photo by Geoff Shingleton
BY JACINTO VIDRÓ
Without doubt crossing from the DRC into Angola is by no means the same experience as crossing from Austria into Germany. Many travelers tend to find the border experience in many developing nations to be more than a hassle, but a dreaded experience filled with being hassled, scammed, and worst of all thoroughly irritated. Well, we’re here to help.
However before we cross into some best practice areas of how to mitigate the hassle of crossing from one country into another, we should note that the scamming, hassling etc… exists because of poverty, and those people who live in these areas often have little other means of making a living as profitable as getting cash out of tourists, and as such when travelling, remember not to blame them – they’re just trying to make ends meet. But enough of that, and onto the juicy stuff.
LEARN THE BORDER CROSSING PROCEDURE – No other piece of advice will help you more, and the general trend is that bureaucracy is the in thing to do. So typically if you don’t know what you’re up against, the process can be much more frustrating than it needs to be, you may wait on the wrong line, run back and forth between different offices while at the same time trying to figure out what on earth it exactly is that you’re supposed to do. Read up on the practices, if you’re travelling in any given direction ask people who have been there and through the process, and see if they can offer some advice, also make sure that you can get the visa at the border, the worst thing is being turned away when all you needed to do was call the nearest embassy or consulate.
BRING U.S. DOLLARS – While the U.S. Dollar may no longer be the de facto international currency it still hold its mettle and especially so in the developing world. If crossing from point A to B, chances are that your visa, toll, or bribe will most likely have to come in the form of the greenback. As such carry around $200 with you at all times in cash, and be sure to take the necessary precautions to adequately hide the money, thieves may or may not be about. Also, when exchanging or getting USD make sure the notes are not older than 2 years – oftentimes officials will not accept older notes.
Hong Kong’s Hippest Bars: For the Perfect Summer Cocktail
BY MARK LEAN
Like a flaming wok, the air in Hong Kong practically crackles with heat and energy. Experience this in the flesh by brushing pass the throngs of people on streets and snaking alleys. Space is a premium commodity in the former British colony, as are the views from highly prized vantage points on misty hilltops and dramatic sea-facing cliffs. This definitely isn’t middle-of-the-road suburbia.
The island’s vibe is a mix of Manhattan cool and Chinese smarts, the latter of which has created one of the world’s most thriving economies. For new arrivals in town who’d like an idea of top spots to soak up a cocktail or two whilst rubbing shoulders with the Prada-wearing cognoscenti, here are a few suggestions.
Big on space, jaw-dropping wraparound views of Victoria Harbour, and unique interior design, the 10,000sq.ft lifestyle destination SEVVA (pronounced “savour”) also features a much talked about bar. Owner Bonnie Gokson has enlisted the skills of acclaimed mixologist, Joseph Boroski, who featured in the television series Sex and the City, to create east-meets-west cocktails with a stylish twist (prices start from HKD$120) that Hong Kong’s versions of Carrie Bradshaw and friends will love.
Inside the Temples of Cambodia
BY HOLLY ONG
You can’t visit Cambodia and not see Angkor Wat – it would be like going to Paris for the first time and not going to the Louvre.
Cambodia was part of the Indochina region and was ruled by a string of Khmer and Cham kings between the 12th and 16th centuries. During that time, the ruling dynasties tried to outdo the last and build even more impressive temples with Hindu or Buddhist influences, depending upon which religion was in favour at the time.
‘Wat’ is actually the local term for temples. You may think Angkor Wat is the only wat but it’s a misnomer as there is more than one temple in the compound to see. Angkor Wat is just the largest and most well-preserved, – which of course means that it is also filled with wandering tourists.
However, if you’re a photo buff or culture vulture, you’re in for a visual treat. Wander around and get lost in a maze of temple ruins. Let your imagination soar and dream of kingdoms that once were. Re-live a time where a mere mortal was accorded demi-god status and marvel at the architectural geniuses who built to honour their gods. Talk to roaming monks in orange robes and watch out for monkeys.
When in the temples: be considerate about noise levels and don’t talk too loudly, – listen to the jungle cicada symphony and drink in the silent beauty of the bas reliefs on the temple walls. You can’t avoid the sheep-herded tour groups in the most visited wats (Angkor Wat and Bayon) but they are in a rush to finish so let them go ahead and take your time.Visit the lesser-known temples like Ta Prohm to see where giant silk cotton trees wrap their roots around temples and rise high into the sky.
Whilst it’s possible to see the main temples in one day, you run the danger of being watted-out. You’ve already come so far – so take the three day pass option at US$50 and build up a slow routine. Have breakfast, hop on the motor-cab, wander through a temple or two, head back to town, lunch, swim, shop and eat dinner before beginning the process all over again.
TRAVEL, MONEY & FOOD
Motor-cabs are the main mode of transport and cost about USD$10-20 a day– depending on your bargaining skills. Agree on a price before getting on and pay at the end of the day.
Siem Reap isn’t the cheapest town in developing South East Asia. But you do not need to change any local currency; carry US Dollars, Euros are not as popular but acceptable. While it’s possible to get USD$1 meals, the arrival of affluent tourists means you can spend USD$6 and up for a meal. Most of the restaurants in the Old Town are owned by enterprising foreigners, so finding a real Cambodian-owned joint may be difficult – but not impossible – look out for signs. Vegetarians will be able to get by; vegans may be a bit tricky. If you have reactions against monosodium glutamate (MSG), be careful as it’s a condiment used very freely.
You can buy souvenirs like the Cambodian checkered scarves at the Old Market. You’ll need to bargain though. Alternatively, you can shop with conscience by checking out places like Artisans d’Angkor where you certainly pay a premium for much finer products, but you’re helping support local artisans.
TEMPLE ETIQUETTE
Wear comfortable shoes as there are considerable grounds to cover and steep steps to climb. For female visitors, don’t be too scantily clad as it’s still a religious compound you’re visiting.
When approached by vendors: be kind and don’t quibble over USD$ 1. Many Cambodians have a hard life and tourism is their main revenue generator. Touts abound and a firm no is acceptable. Little tout kids speaking in German, French, English, Korean and Chinese all imploring you to buy may seem cute but don’t bargain unless you have intent to buy.
The Datai, Langkawi
BY ANTONIA PEARCE
Eco-luxury at its most divine and a percentage of your room fee goes towards saving the rain forest…
The Datai hotel, on the island of Langkawi, has all the marks of an imperial residence. Baroness Thatcher is a fan and the hotel has since remained a beacon of luxury for over fifteen years. Away from the dynamic, yet increasingly western, magnetism of Kuala Lumpur; Langkawi is an island with a gentle almost mythical appeal. Few locations in the world can boast such an exotic mix of virgin rain forest and tranquil beach. However, this is exactly the juxtaposition that has made the Datai; the place to vacation. The hotel’s grand interiors are off-set by two Trojan style horse statuettes and a lily-pad pool in the open-plan lobby. Upon which, the architecture opens up to reveal the pool, a variety of tree tops and the misty Andaman Sea.
The private beach at The Datai
It is quite extraordinary that a place as beautiful as Langkawi is not completely overcrowded with tourists. Instead there is a quiet, loyal (albeit, rather glamorous) visitor who returns year after year. Romantics and nature lovers should stay in the villas nestled deep within the rain forest. Standing high upon wooden stilts, with cozy interiors and dark wooden shutters; they act as cosy, private retreats. That said, the sound of the rain forest takes a little getting used to. I was reduced to calling the reception and asking nervously for someone to check for creepy crawlies under my bed!
However, I awoke to the sound of the stream and careful beams of sunlight shining through my window and soon felt ready to explore the island. To get a feel for the landscape and culture of Langkawi, guests are encouraged to immerse themselves in the islands two great passions; nature and gourmet cuisine.
For the natural world, I turned to the Datai’s resident naturist: Irshad. He is a man adept at inspiring wonder in even the most cultivated of urban dwellers. With a hypnotic tone he makes the rain forest come alive with colourful birds, numerous creatures and tales of miracle plants.
Irshad’s nature walks can be completed early in the morning or at dusk and should be followed by a meal in one the hotels excellent restaurants. For an unforgettable taste-bud experience try the cooking lesson (held every Friday) in the Pavilion restaurant. Here guests can learn the art of Thai cooking. Finally, one of the hotel’s greatest joys is the spa. Located deep within the rain forest and by a freshwater stream. Loose yourself in tranquility baths filled with rose petals and enjoy expert Abhyanga massages.
As a result of good food, sunshine, Irshad’s education and lots of walking: I felt full of energy and happiness. Bliss achieved, I set off for a walk on The Datai’s private beach and moved into the crystal clear ocean delighted in a paradise found.
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