Drink with the Locals

BY BENJAMIN NATHAN-SERIO

In Barcelona there is a fairly strict gastronomic code, and some very precise cultural habits when it comes to mixology. Hedonism has its rules in this thriving cultural capital. So, if you want to drink like a Barcelonés you need to be familiar with your options.

In most of the Western world cocktail hour gets going in the evening around 5. Ha! Locals in Barcelona whet their lunchtime pallet from around 1 or 2 in the afternoon. Traditional aperitifs in Barcelona range from vermouth on the rocks with a splash of whisky and a wedge of lemon to Cava, Spain’s answer to France’s Champagne. More humble folk might just get started with a caña (a glass of beer) or a mediana (a bottle). Barcelona’s local beers don’t have a great range in flavour, but they do the job. Try a Moritz or an Estrella. Naturally if you opt to start things off with a copa of vino tinto (red wine), you won’t be seen as uncouth.

The wine here flows as copiously as the waters of the Mediterranean and is just as refreshing.  This is the most popular drink to accompany the Catalan lunch. For a delicious local wine ask for a Priorat. These vineyards are just over an hour inland from Barcelona. The largest nearby city Reus is an ideal spot to try out your new drinking regimen. In many local restaurants (set menus under 10 euros) you will simply get the vino de casa (house wine). Often this will be accompanied by a bottle of cold, sweetened, carbonated water (gaseosa). Pour a little in your wine, to taste. Now you’re drinking like a proper obrero (worker).

The food is in your belly and the plates are removed from the table, but your banquet is only half finished. Two exceptionally delicious desserts that naturally incorporate drink are Musico (nuts and dried fruit) and Tarta de Santiago (almond cake). Both come with a cup of Muscotel, which is a sweet wine comparable to Port or Sherry. Pour your cup over your dessert and discover sweet heaven. Another popular dessert in Barcelona is Crema Catalana. It’s essentially a crème brûlée. But we’re not so interested in the dessert. You want the liquor. It’s as thick as cream and as sweet as your Tarta de Santiago. Drink up.

Next comes your digestif. If you don’t ask for it and a bottle or two comes to your table accompanied by a few shot glasses, the maître d’ likes you and it’s on the house. What’s in the bottles? Chances are an Orujo (known as aguardiente in the Americas), which is a grape-based spirit of 100 proof, (50% ABV). It’s guaranteed to fulfill it’s role as a digestif by burning your meal down.  The other bottle will be Licor de Hierbas. At around 60 proof it’s a bit less powerful than your Orujo and tastes of sweet herbs.

After your three-course lunch you’ll need a coffee.  The most popular request is a carajillo. It’s a shot of espresso, perhaps a bit of milk and a splash  or more of Whisky, Cognac, Rum or Baileys. It originated in Cuba among Spanish troops. The idea was that it would give them coraje (courage), which is where the word carajillo stems from. It’s also just what you’ll need to walk straight out of the restaurant and back to your hotel for a siesta after experiencing a genuinely local Barcelona meal. You’ll need that siesta too – if you’re going to be in Barcelona, even just for one night, it would be a mistake to miss the night scene…

Want to know more? Read these great books.
: Homage to Barcelona by Colm Toibin
: Barcelona Cookbook: A Celebration of Food, Wine, and Life by Andy Pforzheimer
: Barcelona Tile Design by Pepin Press