Laos, Mekong, ten thousands islands and more
BY NICOLA APORTI
Living in Shanghai is exciting: most, if not all, Shanghai’s expats (as well as, of course, real Shanghainese) will share this view.
Nevertheless, nature and green spaces are indeed something missing in Shanghai. There are a few parks; most streets in the French Concession are sidelined with trees, but still the prevailing feeling is being suffocated by buildings, cement, cars, people…
When, after a long spell on the Yangtze Delta, this feeling of physical oppression becomes too strong … it’s time to head southwards!
Laos is not far away from Shanghai: a little more than one hour to go to Kunming, a little less then two to arrive in Vientiane – and to understand, once you have arrived there, that you must have crossed some invisible borders and have entered a new world.
1. Vientiane , the capital
Vientiane welcomes you with what is supposed to be the quietest and less busy airport of the world, and you might find yourself as the only one wandering in its aisles looking for the info desk where a friendly lady might interrupt her nap to provide you with the list of hotels you were asking for.
Vientiane is the capital of Laos, although it is a little bizarre thinking that this lay-down city, with more trees than buildings where, except for a tall hotel on the Mekong, I would say no building has more than 4 floors, is a Country’s capital.
Walking dows its roads, tuk-tuks queue up to pick up tourists as well as local villagers returning to their homes after a market day; sometimes you might encounter some of those vehicles parked on the side of the street, the driver sleeping and loudly snoring on his seat, and you might feel unconfortable to wake him up asking for a ride.
The whole city is spread on the right bank of Mekong river, this huge snake crawling from the high plateau of Tibet down through the whole Indochina, and marking the border with Thailand, which stands just in front of the drowsy capital of Laos.
The promenade on the Mekong is something unexpected. Nothing monumental or solemn; rather, an “off-the-beaten track” muddy path, not wide enough to allow two people to walk side by side, passing through small stands offering local food to be eaten sitting the Lao way on matterasses on the floor, staring at Mekong’s eternal stream.
The city has indeed some interesting feature: the Pha That Luang, the most important national monumnent, the That Dam (or black stupa) and many other Wat temples, all in the typical Lao style.
A little french taste still remains in a few colonial style houses, in a few boulangeries, and in what is an asian version of the Champs Elysees…
Beside this, maybe one of Vientiane’s the biggest surprises is its nightlife. Which, simply, does not exist.
A law passed by Laos’government imposes a curfew all over the Country: after 11.30 any kind of shop, retaurant, disco, etc shall close.
This causes discos to open at 8.30 pm and close at 11,30 (!), but the main effect is that streets are empy and mostly unlit after 11 pm.
Only a couple of dodgy places make exception, one being situated within the biggest and tallest Hotel of the city, on the Mekong’s bank, gathering basically two kind of people – curious tourists looking for a couple of extra beers and hookers.
This city is living at the same slow pace as the whole Country, and it is interesting to notice that the few evident signals of development all bear the “made in China” label: the biggest shopping mall of the Country has just been inaugurated in August 2007, needless to say with Chinese capital (almost all of the available space has been allocated to Chinese stores). Entrepreneurs from Yunnan, Hunan and elsewhere in China are little by little streming into Laos to set up small factories, or even just to sell their made in China products… just take a look at the Talat Sao market, where most of tpyical Laos handicraft products are made in China!
2. Going North
A couple of days in Vientiane is pretty enough to appreciate this city, and to get more familiar with this Country. After this, moving north is a great way to get really into it!
Vang Viengh well deserves to be the first stop. Situated just 150 km away form Vientiane, this tiny village is nested in between a wonderful limestone area. The landscape is magic and primordial, with bizarrely-shaped hills, jungle and wild rivers offering un unforgettable scenario.
No wonders that Vang Viengh has become one of the most popular tourist destination in Laos; and, being Laos a backpacker’s paridise, no wonders for Vang Vieng being a must for hippies looking for some fun in one of the countless pubs providing happy food, happy drinks and happy shakes!
Something not to be missed in Vang Viengh is tubing: it is possible to rent tubes and to jump in the Nam Song river, being carried for a couple of hours by the stream through wild scenarios; by the way, it is nice to have a (happy) beer-stop in one of the numerous pubs recently opened on the banks, in some of whom you can enjoy the experience of jumping into the river holding to a rope – the Tarzan’s way.
When Vang Viengh has given you the amount of adrenaline you were looking for, and you feel happy enough, next stop shall be Luang Prabang, the old capital, one of the most beautiful cities in Asia.
Perched at the confluence of the Nam Khan river into Mekong, this small city is literally the heart of Laos’ culture.
Dating back as of the 8th century AD, it reached its most glorious epoque until the 16th century, when it used to be called “the city of gold” and was the prosperous capital of Lan Xan kingdom.
The city hosts a surprising number of Wats, most of whom of ancient origin and concealing buddhist art treasures. The Wat Xieng Thong is doubtless the most beautiful temple of the city, and maybe of the whole country, but all over the oldest part of Luang Prabang – a tiny peninsula between its two rivers – art’s masterpieces sprawl, in a relaxed atmosphere where old french-colonial buildings, ancient gilded temples and the typical Lao wooden houses coexist next to eachother.
Buddhism might be the soul of Laos; for sure it is Luang Prabang’s. The streets are teeming with shaven-heads, orange-dressed monks, and one of the strongest experiences to live is to attend the daily morning ryth of the alm.
At 5 am thousands of monks, queuing up on the street side, invade every corner of the city in a silent procession. They stop at every house, gently knock at the door, wait for somebody to open and to offer them some rice, some food, or better some kips or baths, all being stucked in the same jar.
The ryth ends with the monk blessing the believer.
This ryth is central in the Lao people culture, and all the population takes part in it.
In fact bouddhism – after a few years of ban – has now been fully re-acceptedand re-collocated in its original pivot position in Lao culture and society, as fundamental element of social cohesion and identity : for instance, it is the morning ryth of giving the alm to monks that officially provided the reason to the cur-few after 11.30 pm.
Luang Prabang is on the way to reach some of Laos most amazing wild areas, including Luang Nam Tha in the far north, close to the border with China.
From this village it is possible to leave for amazing one, two and even three day trekkings in the jungle, tasting the unique contact with an un-touched nature and with isolated communities living in unaccessible villages.
Most of this minorities have very little contact with foreigners, and tourists should be very discrete when approaching them. These tribes being animist, clap of hands or stamping feet on the ground are believed to perturbate the spirits, therefore this kind of behaviour should be avoided.
If jungle is one of the main feature of Laos, the other one is for sure the Mekong, Indochina’s big river.
Laos is, simply, a gift of Mekong.
This river provides fish, water for the fields and the lush forests but mainly this river is indeed one of the worlds’ longest highways: lacking of main long distance roads, Laos relies on Mekong for transportation between main cities and, most of all, small villages, otherwise impossible to reach.
From the northern border with Thailand, in the remote village of Huay Xay, starts one of the most beautiful navigations on the Mekong. With the slow boat, Luang Prabang, roughy 200 km southwards, will be reached in 2 days and one night.
The route sneaks through inaccessible spots, useless to say covered by the most untouched vegetation.
Except for a few fishermen, precariously perched on their long, thin boats, so motionless to seem completely melted with the surrounding landscape, and some occasional villages showing their roofs through the vegetation, no other sign of human life is perceivable.
The night will be spent in the isolated village of Pak Beng, with nothing else to do but staring at the sun that spreads its last beams on the mountains and on the crispy surface of the river.
3. Ten thousand islands…
A gift of Mekong…
This is particularly the case for the marvellous archipelago of Siphandon, at Laos’s southern border with Cambodia.
The river is here 14 km wide, in his riverbed hosts more than 10.000 islands, in Lao language called si phan don, indeed.
The islands are a peaceful shelter for travellers, tourism appearing to become more and more important as revenue for the local community.
Little running water and electricity may scare those more dependent on comfort, but the prize for the brave ones is great: a real Lao experience in un untouched place, enjoying baths in the Mekong, beautiful walks or even bicycle rides in forest; ever-present rice fields are an ideal mirror for ancient temples and the amazing sunsets, while before sleeping nothing is more relaxing than balancing on a comfortable hammock, staring at the stars while the Mekong flows by…
If, after a few days, you have enough of this complete relax, or when you think to have explored each and every corner of the island you are lodging in, the high lands of Boulaven Plateau are just six hours by boat (heading north to Pakse) plus two more by bus (to Paksong) away.
What about sipping one of the world’s best coffee (the Plateau produces the famous Lao coffee, exported all over the world, especially in France), and buying plenty of freshly ground powder to bring home in the Lao coffee’s Mecca, i.e. the coffee market of Paksong? A few spoonful of coffee ground are put into a net and then dipped into hot water; after a while the creamy, sweet, strong Lao coffee will delight you, maybe with an extra spoon of condensed milk.
With that exquisite taste still in the mouth, you might then be eager to adventure once more into the jungle looking for Tat Fan water falls, 120 metres high, one of the highest of south-east asia, certainly one of the most spectacular ones. The path will lead you on the very edge of the cliff, get ready for a breath taking view!
Anything better than this? Maybe yes.
Southern Laos can still surprise you with the amazing Champasak temple. A Khmer site buried in the jungle, a kind of little (an much less visisted) Angkor, with surprisingly well preserved statues, temples, stairs. Originally a hindu temple, the Wat Phu in Champasak (whose age is still to be ascertained, though its most ancient parts are generally dated between 6th and 8th centuries) was then converted into a bouddhist site, nevertheless, statues of Hindu gods still was preserved. Climbing the stairs and walking between the remainings of such a glorious site, now invaded by trees, herbs and moss, conceives the feeling of the discovery.
A journey in Laos is a journey in the time, more than in the space.
Despite its wild, untouched nature, its treasures of art, its unforgettable landscapes, the strongest feeling that remains is the magic of the slowliness of its rhythm.
Lao live according to the eternal rhythm of the temple; the whole existence seems to flow away in the same way as the Mekong has been doing from the beginning of the times… and all that remains, is the serenity, the calm, the soothing smile of Lao people.
Nothing Comapers to You Salar de Uyuni
BY LAURA CANEPA
Maybe Phil Collins didn’t sing about the Inca, but in the days that mountains possessed both body and spirit, the immense Tunupa volcano was then a splendid woman who fell in love with Cusco, a strong and beautiful mountain: they decided to marry, and in brevity their first son was born.
However, the joy did not last long as Cusco had fallen into the seductive grasp of Cosuna, the fascinating adjacent mountain. When Tunupa discovered the betrayal, he became enraged and wanted revenge – thus striking out at the most important and beloved thing to Cusco’s heart, their recently born son.
In her despair and with a breast swollen of milk, she dug a basin in the valley and slowly poured the milk in, creating the “Salar de Uyuni”. The world’s largest salt lake.
Salar de Uyuni is a visually captivating place, one of the most stunningly beautiful places you will ever come across in South America.
Covering an area of over 12,000 square km, some 40,000 years ago the region was covered by the giant salt Lake Minchin and nowadays is a reserve of 10 billion tons of salt.
The desert can be crossed by 4×4 and, necessarily, with a guide (my suggestion is Mister Epi employed by Cordillera Traveller, based in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile), where during a trip of 3 days you will pass by surreal visions created by amazing geological formations, geothermal springs and brine coloured lakes. This S. American adventure looks something like this.
1st Day. Departure from San Pedro de Atacama at 08:00 AM – by minibus – to the Bolivian border (at 4.400 m above sea level) where the 18 passengers are shifted to three 4WD jeeps.
During the first day the group is in the Bolivian high plain visiting such wonderful places as Laguna Verde (an incredible green lagoon) and Laguna Blanca (white lagoon), located at the bottom of Licancabur Volcano, continuing to Daly Desert where it’s possible to admire a surrealistic landscape, thermal water pools, Sol de Mañana geysers –intermittent springs coming up at a 90º C– and fumaroles, and cracks with emerging volcanic lava.
The first day’s journey ends up at Laguna Colorada (coloured lagoon), the main nesting centre for more than 30,000 pink flamingos of 3 different species. The night is spent in a “folk” building (rooms for 6 people/each) in the middle of what can best be described as nowhere: a brilliant experience that you share with the other global trekkers.
2nd Day. During the second day the trip includes the Siloli Desert and the Stone forest, high plain coloured lagoons, Chiguana salt flat, ending the day in Chuvica village where you’ll find the De Sal Hotel – a hotel completely built out of salt, furniture included.
3rd Day. Finally the incredible salt desert! After visiting Pescado (fish) Island – located in the middle of the salt flat with a formation of chalky rocks, coral and seashell traces – and Pueblo Chico – located at the limits of the Uyuni desert – the tour then winds up at Uyuni City, a typical Bolivian village famous for its colour filled market.
That’s it, tour of the Salar de Uyuni over? Not really, at this point you have 2 options: a) go to Macchu Picchu, in Peru or b) head back to Chile but with a different itinerary, if b is your choice of choice, try spending the night in a surrealistic village named Villa Mar.
Either way, you’ll be sure to enjoy it.
A-List Adventures – Motorbike Indochina
BY PROJECTRAVEL
Many have been to Thailand, many have spend countless hours on the beaches soaking in sun and eating delicious curries, and all that is the perfect end to a few week trek through South East Asia on a motorbike.
Now before we start – we’d just like to say that while our other Adventures were in conjunction with service providers, you can motorbike around SE Asia by yourself or in a small group and there is no need to hire a tour company, however, considering we’re trying to do good by you, we’ll provide you with a service provider at the end of the article.
Once you’ve decided on going motorbiking Indochina, we’d highly recommend starting and ending your trip in Bangkok. Simply put it’s the major hub in the region, most accustomed to tourism, and by far the easiest location to acquire your vehicle. In the event you want to rent, you can do so as well here, but be sure that you have all the necessary papers to bring the vehicle out of the country, that all taxes are properly paid on the vehicle and that it has a clean bill. Nothing’s worse than getting to the border only to be told you can’t proceed further due to the bike not having all it’s taxes in order.
Next up plan your route. Considering the wealth of cultural, historical, and natural things to do in the region we’re not going to recommend any one specific route for you. The best thing to do would be to buy one of these books, and then plan your own journey.
- Vietnam Cambodia Laos and the Greater Mekong – Lonely Planet (UK
) (US
)
- Southeast Asia on a Shoestring – Lonely Planet (UK
) (US
)
- The Rough Guide to South East Asia – (UK
) (US)
As for some recommendations from our side, we’d say the Ho Chi Minh Trail, Temples and Religious Sites of Cambodia, The Diving Trail are a good place to start, or better yet mix and match. Also remember than when planning your route 150km can take as much as 5 hours to cover as road conditions, are not the best so plan accordingly for time.
Finally, while accommodations are plentiful by the coast, this may not be the case in smaller villages and more rural areas, and while the people are generally nice, and you can often find a place to sleep, a tent and mosquito net are still highly recommended, and if you’re traveling during the rainy season, be sure to book hotels ahead and park your bike away from the river and on hirgher ground as flash floods are known to happen during this season.
TOP TIPS
1. Start in Bangkok – Thailand’s law regarding the purchase and sale of vehicles are most lax due to the country’s large expat population as well as the tourist numbers.
2. When buying your vehicle, see if you can arrange a buyback for a percentage of the price, if not just leave it. Motorbikes in SE Asia are cheap enough.
3. Be sure to purchase a Japanese model as parts are plentiful and cheap, and in the event you break down a village mechanic will probably be able to get you going again.
4. Remember that crossing borders in developing nations is no where near as painless as the channel crossing (or the US/Canadian border for our North American readers), and can often be tedious and time consuming.
5. Prior to setting off, get all your papers, visas, in order to make your journey as smooth as possible.
TOUR OPERATORS
The Twelve Days of Christmas
On the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me…
Here begins my list of twelve things to do in Vancouver to get in the holiday spirit – with your true love, or with anyone really.
The First Day of Christmas
Go ice skating in Robson Square. The newly restored outdoor rink reopened last week $1.6 million and five years after it closed due to maintenance problems. Skating outdoors is synonymous with Christmas cheer, so what better place to do it than amid the hustle and bustle of Robson Street shoppers. The rink is underground, with a big glass dome, and lights shine over the ice generating shapes of snowflakes and stars. The rink is open for free public skates from noon to 9pm daily, and skate rentals are available for $3 if you don’t have your own (children rent for free).
The Second Day of Christmas
The best way to kick off the holiday season, in my opinion, is to get together with those friends you’re always too busy to see, and DB Bistro Moderne on West Broadway is the ideal venue for such a gathering. Sister restaurant to the Manhattan eatery of the same name, this beautiful room lives up to the reputation its neighbor Lumiere (also run by Chef Daniel Boulud) upholds. Go there for a weekend brunch and stay all day catching up. The abundant list of Bloody Marys (with names like “Worst Case Scenario”) and Mimosas are offered at $22 all you can drink – perfect for those brunches that last all afternoon. Don’t worry – the Smoked Salmon Club Sandwich or Lobster Eggs Florentine will ensure you’ll be able to tolerate all that alcohol!
The Third Day of Christmas
Bright Nights in Stanley Park. Affectionately known as the Christmas Train, this event continues on a nightly basis from 3pm until 10pm for the entire month of December. Enjoyable for children and adults alike, the train takes you through the forest illuminated with Christmas lights, while listening to holiday music, drinking hot chocolate, and munching on fresh popcorn and chestnuts. What could be more festive than that? The experience costs a mere $8 for adults and $5 for children, granting access to the children’s farmyard as well. Dress warmly because the train is open, but there is nothing better than being snuggled up with someone you love under the stars.
Holidays from around the World at Your Doorstep
By Chrysoula Economopoulos
The holiday season is here… time for some holiday cheer!
Washington can’t typically claim snowy landscapes peppered with sleigh bells ringing, children sledding, and extravagantly decorated storefront windows. But it does offer something that few places around the world can offer: a microcosm of holiday celebrations.
Beginning in late November and throughout December, several foreign embassies and the U.S. government celebrate the holiday season each in their own festive way.
AMERICA, AMERICA!
The U.S. National Christmas Tree on December 4, 2008, during the 2008 Lighting of the National Christmas Tree Ceremony.
Why not kick off the holidays with a good old American tradition – visit the National Christmas Tree on the White House’s Ellipse (aka. the south lawn). The tradition began under President Calvin Coolidge in 1923 and has come a long way, baby: This year’s tree is the most energy efficient and brightest in history, powered by LED technology. If you missed the lighting ceremony on December 3 – fewer than 10,000 tickets were available by lottery – the tree will stay up until January 1, featuring free nightly performances (downloadable program in PDF) and other activities.
The National Christmas Tree will soon be joined on the Ellipse by the National Chanukah Menorah on December 13, with a special lighting ceremony that day at 4:00p.m. A quick drive down the street to the Capitol Building’s West Lawn (Constitution & Independence Avenues), the Capitol Christmas Tree will be lit on December 8 at 5:00p.m., with the ceremony open to the public.
ROYAL NORWEGIAN EMBASSY
For the 13th year in a row, the Royal Norwegian Embassy decks the halls with a Norwegian Christmas at Union Station, featuring a 32-foot Christmas tree and train exhibit, as well as a series of events and concerts in various venues around the city. Visit Union Station (50 Massachusetts Ave NE) between December 3, 2009-January 3, 2010.
EMBASSY OF CANADA
This Saturday, December 5, the Embassy of Canada (501 Pennsylvania Ave NW) hosts its Winter Gala. From 8:00-9:00p.m., guests will sip complimentary champagne then watch the Christmas tree lighting ceremony at 10:00p.m. Tickets go for $75 (includes music, hors d’oevres, cash bar), with proceeds benefitting the Government of Canada’s United Way Campaign. R.S.V.P. is required – email Kandice.Zeman@international.gc.ca. Photo ID required for security entrance.
EMBASSY OF GERMANY
Celebrate the fall of the Berlin Wall and get your holidays in gear with the German Embassy’s Black Tie Holiday this Saturday, December 5 (limited space remains), hosted at the embassy (4645 Reservoir Rd NW). The gala’s theme is “Saluting 20th Anniversary of the Fall of the Berlin Wall”. Festivities kick off at 7:30p.m. and include music from the band Suspicious Package at 9:00p.m., include an open bar, German holiday food and desserts, a Berlin Wall presentation, DJ, and dancing. For additional information and to purchase tickets ($70/ticket), see the ThingsToDoDC.com site.
EMBASSY OF SWEDEN
The Annual Swedish Christmas Bazaar will take place on December 5 at the House of Sweden (2900 K Street NW, Washington), the building that is home to the Swedish Embassy and a number of other organizations. The bazaar begins at 11:00a.m., offering traditional Swedish baked goods, crafts, crystal, textiles, food, books and more. The event culminates with a Lucia procession at 5:30p.m. Suggested donation: $2 at the door.
Santa Lucia After Dark Ball is next up for Sweden on the evening of December 12. Also taking place at the House of Sweden, this “holiday cocktail gala and celebration of lights” will feature the Singco Rhythm Orchestra, an open rooftop winter bar serving glögg, Swedish hors d’oeuvres, desserts, and images of Swedish winter landscapes and the aurora borealis. Tickets start at $40 (general admission).
EMBASSY OF FRANCE
Eiffel Tower, Paris
La Maison Française (4101 Reservoir Rd, NW, Washington), the Embassy of France’s cultural home, will host “Holiday Party in Paris 2009!” on December 11 from 7:00p.m.-11:00p.m. Guests will be transported “passport-free to Paris for an evening of celebration, effervescence, and early holiday shopping” with a silent auction, Parisian-inspired buffet, champagne, live music and DJ beats. Tickets available for $60 ($30 tax deductible) at InstantSeats.com.
RUSSIAN EMBASSY CULTURAL CENTER
On December 19, the Russian Embassy’s Russian Cultural Center (1825 Phelps Place NW) beckons you to “add a unique touch to your Christmas, Chanukah or Kwanzaa celebrations this year… with a unique Russian experience – without ever leaving the District.” Russian food, cocktails, film, a special “Nutcracker” ballet presentation, diplomatic greeting, and late-night DJ are all on the evening’s roster of the center’s Russian Evening and Holiday Nutcracker Celebration. Tickets and additional details are available through ThingsToDoDC.com.
A-List Adventures – Climb Everest
All Images Courtesy Wikimedia
BY PROJECTRAVEL STAFF WRITER
We don’t really beat around the bush here at ProjecTravel, and our next A-List Adventure recommendation is no different. This time, we present you with a climb up Earth’s biggest rock, Mr. Everest.
But you ask yourself I’m not a proper mountaineer, how do I go about preparing for something like this? We’ll that’s why we’re here to advise you on this adventure filled journey to the top, and hopefully a safe descent from the summit.
First things first – fitness. While many adventure companies out there have Everest prep courses, you still have to get buff enough for the trek up with thin air, and everything else in between. As such we recommend weight lifting, running on hilly terrain, climbing, and walking exhausting distances with a heavy rucksack. This isn’t a process that will be easy, nor will it take a short period of time. So if you’re serious, and you want to climb this big boy, set aside a number of months in advance to begin training and do not fault.
Fitness is not only physical – mental preparation is pivotal. This climb will be one of the most difficult things you will probably ever have to do both physically and mentally. Be sure you want to do it, be sure you know what the risks are and most importantly know your motivating factors.
Do you know what you’re doing? If no, then you’ve got a long road ahead of you, five years minimum to be honest. First thing first, learn about mountaineering, second thing – start climbing mountains. At first start small, 1,500m (5,000 ft) and lower, then build up, and keep on climbing bigger and bigger rocks. Once you’re able to scale peaks of 5000m(16,500 ft) and up, you’re pretty much ready for Everest, but remember, at 8,848m (29,029 ft) it’s not going to be easy no matter what you think.
Be sure to select a reputable climbing company, ProjecTravel recommends Alpine Ascents – they are the best, but they are also not cheap. Your ticket up Everest is going to set you back $65.000, but you can get cheaper expeditions as well. However be sure to check if the team is experienced in Himalayan climbing and check the quality of their Sherpa’s as well. Most expedition companies will have a website, and a bit of digging around the net will put you in touch with people who have done the trek before.
After all that is said and done, the next thing is to acclimatize yourself to the thin air – set aside a few weeks just for this, keep on exercising, and kick those RBC’s into overdrive so that bring your cell that needed oxygen.
Aside from that, remember at all times that the most important thing that you can do to get through this in the most efficient way possible is prepare, prepare, prepare – so again don’t falter, and in the event that your loved ones worry about the mortality rate of climbing the biggest the rock on the planet, you can tell them that the mortality rates have dropped to below 2%, worldwide an in terms of percentages that’s less than in motor vehicle collisions.
Barcelona FC – more than a club.
“Mas que un club” (more than a club), Barcelona FC´s motto is not a cliché. Even if you don´t like football, the manifestations of this motto, in the Camp Nou stadium and the team that play there, makes for a spectacle well worth experiencing.
Barcelona FC is an important piece of Catalan identity. During Franco´s time, when Catalan was banned, a visit to Camp Nou was one of the few opportunities when Catalan´s could speak their mother tongue outside the home. On the pitch too, beating Madrid or other “Spanish” clubs carried, and still carries, to a lesser extent, a strong political undercurrent.
This complex relationship between Catalan´s and Barcelona FC – which I am only scratching the surface of– goes some way in explaining the attitude the fans take with the club. Unlike other teams, in England say, where the fans, generally, encourage the team when things are against them, the Barcelona fans feint their fury, mercilessly. Failure is not an option and if the team doesn´t perform the whistles in Camp Nou can reach the same pitch as a jumbo-jet (that isn´t a figurative statement, but fact, apparently). More than a club, Camp Nou can come across as a dysfunctional family.
Camp Nou itself is one of the greatest sporting arenas in the world. At one point the capacity was over 120,000, but this has decreased to just under 100,000 (with FIFA´s ruling that all stadia must be seated). Camp Nou is still the largest stadium in Europe, Wembley comes in a distant second, with 90,000 seats. And the club is in the early stages of adding a further 13,500 seats – which will make it the world´s largest stadium.
This unique history and tradition has given the club an unusual fan base; unusual in the sense that at a game you will find an entire cross-section of Catalan society. Men probably just out shadow the women, but not by much, and there are the glamorous and drab in equal measure. Given the arena and the interesting crowd I, a big football fan, found it difficult to keep my attention on the game itself. Being present at such a ground, amongst such a crowd, feels like being given access to an intimate family occasion. Tickets to a home Barca game are probably the hottest tickets in town. And that gives the Camp Nou a charisma which few sporting events can match.
I write this piece on the eve of “El Classico”, Barcelona vs. Real Madrid. Probably the biggest game in club football, little else has been talked about all week. The fact that Barcelona FC are probably the best, and certainly the most attractive (in their style of football, not hair styles), makes a visit doubly appealing (not to mention giving you a certain authority in bar conversations). All in all, and I am trying to be as impartial as possible, there are few thinks as enjoyable and inherently Catalan as a visit to Camp Nou.
The crux to this panegyric is actually getting one´s hands on tickets. For smaller games it is possible to buy tickets at the gate, depending on availability. To be sure, try this website – http://www.barcelona-football-tickets.com/en/gbp/categories/421 – where you can buy tickets in advance.
A-List Adventures: HALO / HAHO Diving
When we talk about A-List Adventure, we’re not talking about the same trite activities that the majority of the population has done – a cruise is not really an adventure, neither is a bike ride around central park, nor for that matter a regular jump out of a plane – well most any plane that is.
Every year you have more skydivers, and while still fun and adventure filled, it’s pretty much the same thing anywhere you go, go up to 13.000 feet (4km) up in the air on a propeller plane and jump with some guy or gal strapped to your back.
Well cool, it’s a good ride for beginners and the elderly but when it comes to something that you’ll tell your friends about over a pint at the pub, a normal skydive will no longer impress. So this is the ProjecTravel alternative. HALO. What’s that you ask?
High Altitude – Low Opening Skydives. What’s that you ask. Developed by the US Air Force in the 1960s – the HALO technique was first studied to see the survivability of high flying pilots. However as you can imagine this type of exercise carries with it some risk.
At high altitudes the earth’s oxygen is too thin for human respiration – which can lead to hypoxia. That said, a rapid ascent in the jump aircraft can lead to Decompression Sickness. In addition, cigarette smoking, alcohol and drug use, including histamines, sedatives, anglesites, anemia, carbon monoxide, fatigue and anxiety can all lead a jumper to lose consciousness and be unable to open their parachute, and the low temperatures, and sometimes sub-zero temps that a jumper can experience may lead to frostbite.
And then there’s the whole issue associated with canopy malfunction leading to one’s forceful impact with the surface.
But if you’re cool with all that – and really looking to a thrilling ride of a lifetime, we highly recommend the experience. HALO jumps typically take place at 30.000 feet (9.1 km) up in the air at temperatures of -30C to -35C.
If falling to your death for two or so minutes and then calmly landing on the surface isn’t your thing, but you’re still intrigued by the high altitude jumps, there’s always the option of HAHO – or High Altitude High Opening, same risks, same dangers, but instead of reaching terminal velocity, you jump and ten to fifteen seconds into the experience open your chute and coast down to mother earth while seeing her pristine beauty.
As for where – well… it’s not as sporadically ingrained in society as normal jumping, but here are a few links to help you on your way. Plus the ever valuable resource of Google Search can only help. Halo Jumper and Incredible Adventures, both in the US, so if anyone knows of any HALO/HAHO dive places outside of North America, do let us know.
A Place to Lay My Head (continued)
Affordable
After having looked at some of the most luxurious hotels Vancouver has to offer, it’s time to turn to more affordable options. These three hotels will not break the budget, yet they are unique and stylish in their own right.
The Century Plaza Hotel and Spa
Where hotel/spa collaborations exist, the spa usually becomes known for the hotel of which it is a part. In this case, however, the Absolute Spa @ The Century put The Century Plaza on the map. Now the largest and self-proclaimed “most luxurious spa chain in Canada,” the Absolute Spa boasts impeccable service and incredible products developed by the spa’s creator, Wendy Lisogar-Cocchia, and her team. Although the spa chain now has various locations around the city, including the Hotel Vancouver, the hotel that houses the original location is worth a visit. Rooms are relatively inexpensive, and recent renovations have produced elegant results. The Burrard Street location makes this spot ideal for business or shopping trips, and after a long day pampering is only an elevator ride away.
The Listel Hotel
This boutique hotel is located at the corner of Robson and Jervis. Perfectly central, one can walk east along Robson for some shopping, north to Coal Harbour, south to English Bay, or west to Stanley Park. On the Museum Floors, each room exhibits contemporary “Northwest Coast Art,” while the Gallery Floors showcase contemporary Canadian and international artists in the form of miniature galleries. The rooms are cozy and stylish, as one would expect in a boutique hotel, and if you have something slightly grander in mind, the “artist series suites” each feature a different artist and movement. Adding to the cultural experience, guests can head downstairs to O’Douls Restaurant and Bar for authentic west coast cuisine and live jazz music every evening.
The Sylvia Hotel
Nestled in English Bay at the entrance to Stanley Park, this charming hotel is almost 100 years old. The ivy-covered exterior is matched by the interior décor that recalls a British bed-and-breakfast. Somewhat outside of the action, The Sylvia is ideal for those wishing to experience Vancouver in a relaxing fashion. Steps from the beach and the park, the views of English Bay are unrivalled. Although this location is ideal in the summer, the cozy interior makes it a great winter getaway as well. While I wouldn’t call it stylish, The Sylvia has a certain style to it; and breakfast downstairs overlooking the bay, or a cocktail at sunrise, make it worth checking out.
Festival de cine Independent de Barcelona
For independent films from all corners of the globe you needn´t look any further than the “Festival de cine Independent de Barcelona”, this week (13th – 21st November). With 1720 films to choose from, the committees selection can´t fail to provoke (either with congratulations or incredulities that such a film got through the net). Either way, this is a great low-key film festival where one has the chance to really engage with the films and the film-loving, and making, community.
In the organizers own words “the result is a stunning panorama of contemporary independent filmmaking that bears witness to a vibrant community off the commercial circuit”. Wow, you can´t get much better than that! And though I haven´t viewed this happy non-commercial world of cinema, yet, my friends are raving about what they have seen. Not only that, but also the wonderful atmosphere of being at a festival which publically pooh-poohs the establishment. Nothing makes an evening, or matinee, for that matter, more enjoyable than a non-conformist festival which attracts audiences who want to experience the new.
I could copy and paste all the information about tickets and venues into this article, but I am too lazy and it won´t be as clear anyhow, so visit the official website instead - and work out which films take your fancy. There are concessions available, which always help. In fact, having looked at the list of concessions, it appears to be more difficult to pay full whack than get a little money off your entrance; rummage around in that purse of yours and you´re bound to find a card which should do it. A good sign, indeed, that the festival lives up to its philosophies.
I am just sorry I have only heard about this festival only now, with 5 days behind us. I promise to keep my ear closer to the ground in future. But no point in crying over spilt milk and get your reading glasses out and head to the “Festival de cine Independent de Barcelona” for an evening designed to engage it´s audience, rather than rob them.
A-List Adventures: Clipper Round the World
Images by Clipper Ventures and Wikipedia
Flying may be the quickest means of getting from one continent to another, but it is not necessarily the most exciting. On this week’s installment of A-List Adventures, we present you with the Clipper Round the World Yacht Race.
Conceived in 1995 by Sir Robin Knox-Johnston, the event is targeted towards amateurs who for lack of better things to do, want to sail around the world. The race now runs once a year, however spanning two years total since it starts in September and finishes in July the following year. Participants can either sign up to crew the clippers for either a leg of the journey, or as we at ProjecTravel would do it, for the whole global regatta.
Crew members do not need to be professional sailors as the organising company provides qualified skippers with each vessel – and in turn each vessel is owned by the organising company as well. If you don’t know the port side from a bow, don’t worry as you will receive a four part training course, after which you’ll have the know-how to meet the demands of an open ocean race crew.
The boats are basically stripped down racing yachts, boasting only the bare necessities, no fridge or microwave as the organiser’s website states, and two toilet cubicles, one with a shower, however, chances are that you probably won’t get to use it, or for that matter want to. Long story short, these are not your chartered cruiser yachts, they’re definitely made for racing.
As for the race itself, it’s not a full on breakneck speed dash for the finish line. There are seven legs, and each team is given points depending on their finishing position at the end of each leg. The team with the most points at the end of the race is then declared the winner. In between each leg there is usually a break of about a month or so, where you can go and explore the interior of the country that the clippers port at.
As for the locations, they tend to change annually, or so we’ve been informed. This year the race covers Europe, South America, Africa, Australasia, China, across the Pacific to the US, then through the Panama Canal into the Caribbean up the coast of North America, and finally finishes back in Europe.
The absolute best way to learn more about the race is to head over to the Clipper Round the World Website, they have information, news on the race which is currently underway, sponsor / partnership deals, and best of all you can follow each leg live via Sat-Nav and Google Maps.
In any case, Round the World is definitely something unique when it comes to adventuring on this blue rock of ours, so be sure to check them out, and more importantly if you’d like to sign up, registration is currently open.
Touring the U.S. Capitol
Free ticket to tour the Capitol
By Elisabeth Grant
With so many museums, monuments, and historic points of interest, it’s hard to decide where to start when touring the nation’s capital. The Washington Monument’s sheer height might beckon you first, or the White House’s grand facade, but no trip to DC is complete without making a stop at the Capitol and the still rather new Capitol Visitor Center.
In the Capitol Visitor Center you can peruse educational and interactive exhibitions in Exhibition Hall: touch a scale model of the Capitol dome, see the Lincoln Catafalque (the support of Lincoln’s casket from 1865), and check out various documents, images, and videos. Then, book a free tour of the Capitol through the Visitor Center ticket kiosks (if you haven’t already booked a tour through your Representative or online).
Highlights from the Tour:
Tours at the Capitol run like a well-oiled machine. They start off with a brief 13 minute video titled, “Out of Many, One,” which is the translation of “E pluribus unum,” the motto of the the U.S. that appears on the Great Seal of the United States. The video sets the tone for the tour and gives a quick history of how the U.S. government was created and how laws and amendments have been added over the years. Then, visitors are put into groups and paired with tour guides who deftly lead the way to a fast-paced but well-rounded tour of the Capitol. Here are some highlights you can expect when you make your way through the U.S. Capitol.
1. Statue of Freedom – Capitol Visitor Center
As you enter the Capitol Visitor Center, before you make your way to the tour kiosks or Exhibition hall, you’ll be struck by the grand, nearly 20 foot tall, original plaster model of the Statue of Freedom, the bronze figure that sits atop the Capitol dome. While this is technically a pre-tour feature, the Statue of Freedom is impressive and important enough to highlight.
Original plaster model of the Statue of Freedom
2. The Rotunda
The tour begins with a big wow–entrance into the United States Capitol Rotunda. This ornate and cavernous space leaves visitors wide-eyed, and looking upward to the elaborate fresco painted within the dome, Constantino Brumidi’s “The Apotheosis of Washington.”
The impressive Rotunda of the Capitol.
3. National Statuary Hall
The National Statuary Hall features a few of the 100 statues donated by the 50 states. The rest of these statues have been dispersed throughout the Capitol and Visitor Center.
National Statuary Hall
4. Old Supreme Court Chambers
The Old Supreme Court Chambers are an intimate and dimly lit space. But there’s something quiet and powerful about them, leaving one to imagine how intimidating they may have been back during their use.
Old Supreme Court Chambers
5. Center of DC
The star in the center of the floor marks the center of D.C. Technically this is not the geographic center of the city, but it is where D.C.’s four quadrants begin.
The center of D.C.'s four quadrants.
A trip to the Capitol Visitor Center and a tour of the U.S. Capitol is worth it for out-of-towners and locals alike. The breathtaking architecture coupled with a history lesson on our government makes for an educational and entertaining afternoon. It also doesn’t hurt that its all contained inside, and the Capitol Visitor Center even links to the Library of Congress by way of a tunnel. Good things to know if you hit Washington on a cold or rainy day.
A-List Adventures – Arctic Marathons
- Images by Polar Running Adventures
In this week’s A-List Adventure, we take you from the blistering sun of the Sahara to the Earth’s Polar Regions for a bit of a run, and by run we mean a marathon.
Founded in 2002 by Richard Donovan, Polar Running Adventures gives runners the possibility of partaking in two distinct Arctic marathons, the Annual North Pole Marathon running since 2003 and the Antarctic Ice Marathon following suit a few years later.
For obvious reasons each marathon takes place during the hemisphere’s summer months – but that is not to say that the marathon runner can expect warm temperatures. Weather conditions are often windy and the air temperate fluctuates between -10 F (14 F) to -20 C (-4 F), and a marathon low of -37 C (-34.6 F) runners can expect a bone chilling experience.
If you do decide to embark on this type of adventure, there are a couple of things that you must take into consideration, the underfoot conditions are not those of say the New York Marathon, and while the arctic regions are still thankfully free from potholes, other risks are most definitely there. These include soft and loose snow, ice, deep snow, as well as uneven and unpredictable surfaces. For those who have ran marathons you’ll know that setting a rhythm is key, this is difficult to accomplish in arctic terrain.
Notwithstanding, should you opt out for the Antarctic race, which is also the only footrace within the Antarctic Circle, you’ll also have the chance to participate in the 100K instead of the marathon.
That said, to participate in this competition – like near anything that has to do with arctic tourism, it’s not cheap.
The Antarctic race will set you back a whopping 11,000 € (£9,800 / $16,500 US) and the North Pole Race is even more expensive at 11,900 € (£10,600 / $17,800 US). Now mind you, if you just want an arctic expedition there are much cheaper options out there, but if you want to push yourself, and tell your friends and family that you’ve ran a marathon in the polar regions, this is the way to do it.
Either way, twenty-four hour daylight, cold, and the adrenalin rush of pitting yourself against other die hard runners and nature will inevitably be worth it.
For more information on the runs – click the appropriate links – Arctic Run – Antarctic Run
Additionally, we would like to add that Polar Running Adventures is an environmentally conscious operator, making sure that each get away is effectively carbon neutral, well done.
All The Fun Of The Fair!
Monaco's Winter Fun Fair!
By LOUISE HARRISON
The pedestrian area above Port Hercules in Monaco has to be one of the most efficiently used spaces in urban history…apparently in use 160 days a year, Monaco sees every kind of fair, expo, the grand prix, equestrian events and even the yacht show take over this space each year for a calendar of events that always gives residents and visitors alike something to look forward to…
This month is no exception…the Monaco Winter fun fair is in town.
Spanning back years, and coinciding with the national Monaco day, the fair is your usual affair (ouch) of doughnuts stands, rides and rollercoasters, even down to those annoying claw things that never grab the soft toys (how do they work? Answers on a postcard to…) You can try your luck on the shooting range, slides, football challenges or tombola (warning – you may win an enormous soft toy – I’ve seen enough sheepish looking men carrying them home in recent years to know!)
This year, the fairground seems brighter and more brilliant than ever…as usual one can fill up with all kinds of delightful (although admittedly non- lo-cal!) foods. Being a Mediterranean fair, there are fine sandwiches and charcuterie to be found alongside the more hum-drum toffee apples, and if one is still keen to test one’s stomach after overdosing on churros (special crispy doughnut sticks) with chocolate sauce (oh god, the temptation!), the port is home each year to ever more exciting (nausea-inducing?) rides. This year one can be spun around mid air on something that looks like a crane crossed with a Broadway billboard or even sit in a ball-like cage with bungee ropes attached and be flung hundreds of feet in the air, …yes, you too can learn what it feels like to be a piece of maize in a popcorn machine!
Seriously though, the fair is exceptionally entertaining, and has something for everyone. It looks exceptionally attractive at a time of year when everyone is suffering from the darker nights, plus it is kind of heartening that no matter where you are in the world, there is still very little that makes a small child happier than hooking a duck and winning a goldfish,..it never get’s old..
So make the most of it whilst you can folks! The fair is open every weeknight and at weekends until about a week after the national holiday on November 19th, and of course, once the fun fair packs up, the Christmas market won’t be far behind… and if you happen to be in one of those spinning space cars and see an English-looking brunette passing by, please don’t drop your candyfloss on her. Thank you.
A-List Adventures – The Great African Run
Starting this week – we will be bringing you an all new ten week Adventure Series called A-List Adventures. We’ll be picking ten trips that will be sure to get you telling stories of what transpired until your golden years, and if you’re one of the lucky few to go on any of these trips – well… we assume your grandkids will thank you one day.
That being said, we start of this week’s A-List Adventure with the Budapest-Bamako Rally. Up to 100 teams compete in the rally whose guiding principle is simply: Anyone, By Anything, In Any Way. To add to the whole trip, the rally is not only a touring competition but also a charitable event, where each team is encouraged to bring direct aid, or volunteer in a local development project – meaning your adventure doesn’t necessarily has to stop after you’ve completed the run.
Originally styled on the concept of the Paris-Dakar, which offered its early participants a sense of adventure, and a certain romance of Africa, the Budapest-Bamako is sure to satisfy the most jaded of adventurers, and with Dakar’s departure from Africa in 2008 it’s the only thing of this sort you can get involved in.
The rally offers two types of driving categories, the Racing category for those looking to test their wits against the desert, and an Adventure category for those adventurers who are more interested in the cultural aspects of the regions that the run passes through. It should also be noted that the race version of the run is also more expensive.
Don’t worry though, the run won’t clean you out, Budapest-Bamako is cheap in comparison to say the Dakar, at most it will set you back €1600 + 550 for each person, compare that to the minimum €12800 for its north African predecessor, it’s a bargain.
TOP TIPS
- Typically the run takes place in from the 2nd week of January and runs on average 14 days.
- Contestants pass through the following countries – Hungary, Slovenia or Austria, Italy, France, Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, Mauritania, Mali
- Aside from the track being safe, there is still a fair level of risk and danger. Prior participants have been incarcerated in Africa, and while well organized the event cannot be held responsible for corrupt border officials and other irritants that happen with general bush driving and crossing borders.
- Natural dangers are also quite prevalent, these include sandstorms, landslides, floods, and to a lesser degree quicksand.
- Registration for the 2011 rally should begin towards the end of February of 2010.
Cinephelia: for the love of movies
BY SHEYMA BUALI
Easing off the London Film Festival, having a light lunch and coffee at Cinephelia, I realized it is not just a place where the audience gaze comes alive; it is in fact where a growing family of movie lovers can be certain they can share their high regard for the art of cinema.
A bookstore with two branches, it’s a difficult one to fully describe because the concept continues to grow. The first one, opened a year ago, is a quaint and small but fully packed bookstore in London’s east end. The second, a mere two months old, is a pristine gallery, eco-friendly café and reading room with free WiFi. They are the official book carriers of Wallflower Press, the cinema art and studies book publisher (which mean their books are sold here at in-house rates.)
books on all genres
Carrying books from other publishers just as well, topics run the gamut through all genres, regions, and levels of study, practice and critique. Their DVD selection is one to really motivate one’s interest in the world of cinema, coming from home-entertainment distributions companies that support the independent and art house and institutions that commission collectables. Being in either bookstore (east or west end), visitors are encouraged to stick around, get comfortable and flip through old movie magazines.
And there is a warm and open invitation to start a friendship, if not with the movie-buff staff running the place, definitely with their topicality. The east-end bookstore allows people to borrow books from the lending pile. While in the west-end, a cinema club is slowly but intensely coming underway. For 10 pounds a month, members have free access, with a friend, to attend weekly screenings, discussions and Q&A’s with filmmakers, theorists, critics and others.
The relationship with the publishing house guarantees that there is always an event that will be of a scholarly standard. In their first month open, they had already had an evening of discussion between film and culture academic Sophie Mayer and film director Sally Potter. The talk coincided with the recent release of Potter’s film Rage starring Judi Dench, Jude Law, and Diane Wiest, and recent release of Mayer’s book on Potter as a feminist filmmaker and performer, an Oscar-nominated director, and her role in digital cinema.
reading room
Meanwhile, the gallery is exhibiting Polish film posters: a rare and beautiful collection of movie relics. The unique art of Polish posters is one that grew into being a very important outlet for artists. They combined influences and techniques from Constructivism, Futurism and Surrealism and the disciplines of architects, painters and printmakers. By the 1960’s, poster artists preferred, rather than placing obvious symbols of the movie they were depicting like stars and such, to create their visual interpretation through the film’s themes. Of the films depicted in posters on display right now are those by directors such as Stanley Kubrick, David Lynch and Akira Kurosawa among many others.
Though the space is open to the public, evening film events are unfortunately open only to members. The reason for this format is to keep the commercial aspect of the cinema experience null. Rather than an event of anonymity where one pays to enter for a single night, one can come in knowing they are part of a movie lover’s network, where people committed to the art take part week after week.
Having gone to enjoy their movie-clad setting for a quick meal, I left having learned quite a few new things from their displays. To me, this place breeds curiosity and the desire to be more involved in the complex and romantic world of movies. They definitely spread the love for cinema and invite you to do the same: cinephile to cinephile. 
Cinephelia East: 97 Sclater Street, off Brick Lane, London E1 6HR
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/east/ go to the site for a virtual tour of bookstore
Cinephelia West: 171 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RS
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/west/ go to the site for a tour, info on upcoming events and Cinephelia member benefits
Monaco’s New Legend
Black Legend
By LOUISE HARRISON
You’d be mistaken for thinking that winter is the dead season in Monaco. The harbour isn’t jam-packed with mega yachts as it is in the height of the summer, visitors in huge sunglasses no longer fill the terraces & loungers, and the sun terraces themselves have been packed away for the cold season.
But as I said before, you’d be mistaken…
As all good Monaco residents know, the winter party season can be one of the most stimulating times of the year, with different events, shows, art openings and theme parties filling the calendar. This coming week is no exception, and sees the grand opening of a brand new venue in Monaco. I say ‘venue’, as pigeonholing this particular establishment is no easy task.
Black Legend is a new nightclub, bar, restaurant, lounge & live music venue, and is the latest venture to join the renaissance of Port Hercules in Monaco. Conceived and realised by Antoine Chevanne, the director of Groupe Floirat, Black Legend has an impressive pedigree from the outset, coming from the same stable as St Tropez’s Les Caves du Roy & Byblos. Chevanne’s business vision includes the likes of chic clubs and exclusive luxury hotels, however Black Legend has quite a different theme than the Caves du Roy’s sumptuous Mediterranean after-sun clubbing.
Chevanne is passionate about great music, more specifically the kind of soul, funk, disco and R&B that came out of the likes of Motown in the US of the 1970’s. Keen to capitalise on the universal appeal of this music and to recapture the authenticity of this era, Chevanne has hired live musicians to recreate the atmosphere, and the interiors of the club itself have been meticulously designed to mimic the era, down to adding original 70’s spotlight elements to the modern lighting rigs. And let’s not forget the glowing dance floor – guests will feel like they have arrived in a chic 1970’s disco party (think Saturday Night Fever, Shaft) and can give their platform boots or Jimmy Choo’s a good work out until 5am every morning. The notoriously fickle Monaco crowd won’t have time to get bored with varied musical offerings planned right throughout the season, and DJs will follow the bands with more funky music into the early hours of every morning.
In addition to all of the entertainment being laid on, hungry visitors will not be disappointed either – the brasserie will serve a mixture of healthy Mediterranean and all-American cuisine with a ‘Byblos’ twist, and the daytime clientele will also be welcomed from 12:30 onwards every day to try out the lunchtime menus (one of our favourite pastimes in Monaco) not to mention early evening aperitifs.
One has to think that all of this will be a great addition to the selection of bars and restaurants we have here…a few years back, Jimmy’z or Sass café were the only places to go after the bars closed,.. it’s always nice to have an alternative, especially one so central.
So this coming Halloween (31st October 2009) is the night to dust off your flares, and get on down to Monaco’s groovy new nitespot. See you on the flipside folks…
La Paz, Bolivia’s Mouintanous Capital
BY JOE THOMAS
I think there is some truth in the idea that when most people think of South America they first think of the sexy samba beat of Brazil, the cultural sophistication of Argentina or perhaps the distinct Incan settlement of Machu Picchu. There is nothing wrong with this, of course all those just mentioned are attractive images worthy of such an exciting continent, but because these destinations are so well known other incredible places are easily overlooked. This article will focus on a less glamorous location that deserves to be positioned well and truly amongst the highlights of South American travel; La Paz.
La Paz is the administrative capital of Bolivia, one of South America’s poorest countries, and entering it is as dangerous as it is exciting. The city lies in the Andes and any flight touching down at La Paz’s El Alto International Airport must navigate the mountains range on approach. The fun doesn’t stop there. Located at over 3,500 metres above sea-level it can be somewhat giddying arriving from lower climes and it is important to allow yourself time to acclimatise to the altitude if this is the case. Whilst those approaching La Paz on land should have become adjusted to the dizzying heights of the Andean Plateau no-one-regardless of the method of entry-is spared the steep treacherous roads that wind down the canyon walls and penetrate the heart of this distinctive metropolis.
The suburbs that cluster around La Paz are far from special and first impressions of the city are obscured by the chaotic street life. Before condemning the city as just another dull, polluted mess, beware of casting your opinion prematurely. Eventually the taxi, bus, or car in which you are travelling will emerge from the vehicular bedlam upon the edge of a terrifyingly steep precipice as the world disappears before your eyes until you look down and out across the awe-inspiring sight of La Paz. Lying in a huge canyon the city appears one crazy mess that stretches as far as the eye can see; buildings everywhere. Latin American cities are traditionally unimaginative in their practical grid street system of right angles and perpendicular lines. La Paz is not like this; one road-which changes its name several times as it delves through the centre of the city-stretches out like a stray vein pulsating with traffic but it represents the only impression of organisation amidst the seemingly unrestrained mass of buildings that emanate from the city centre. The dilapidated buildings of the city’s population climb the canyon walls in all directions and serve as a constant reminder of the poverty that underlies this bubbling city. (more…)
The Canals
I know what you think… “Am I supposed to travel 50 km out of town to feel myself in countryside?”.
The answer is: not really. You have some alternatives here in city center.
Apart from the usual gardens and parks, Milan had water canals coming in from surrounding rivers since 12th century. You should know that in 15th century, Leonardo Da Vinci had great plans about enhancing these and turning Milan into a new Venice, a rival city of canals. His plans remained partially unrealized, but he managed to add some significant enhancements to those waterways obtained from rivers around.
Long story short, Milan was full of water canals until last century, when they covered almost all of them because of mosquito problems. They used to arrive until the Duomo, but now only a few were left open: you can take a look at them and enjoy an especially rich nightlife. Lots of bars, pubs and restaurants of every kind… from the most basic up to the dressy ones, I leave you to enjoy them.
At some point you might spot a public wash house that women from Milan used to use in past times:
Nice to see but I would like to thank here Mr. Jacob Christian Schäffern, the German guy who invented washing-machines back in 18th century. Thanks to him I don’t have to bring my clothes there to get washed.
You will notice the surroundings are quite artistic-hip style. So you might encounter original exhibitions, sometimes even placed insude courtyards. I felt strange getting into the courtyard to take these pictures. I even have been upstairs. I felt like breaking privacy, so I didn’t insist: hard to tell if I was doing something wrong or not.
The remaining, uncovered “Naviglio” s -this is what they are called- are basically two: the Great Naviglio and the “Pavese” Naviglio, the one that goes to Pavia – a city 40 km south of Milan. Want to follow it up until Pavia? I did it once by bike, a nice trip you might to try:
Asked about feeling countryside in the middle of the town, right? What about some wildlife in there:
Don’t you notice those little ducks hanging around in the canal? Come on! Encourage me: I feel like a national geographic reporter, applied to a city blog…
The Kitsch, The Cool & The Laid Back
The Quireboys at 'Moods'
By LOUISE HARRISON
It was just one of those nights, as the song says…a typical early winter evening in Monaco.
And what’s a girl to do here on a slightly chilly Saturday night?
Well, fortunately, we don’t tend to be short of things to do in this town, but sometimes the sheer variation of events in a such a small vicinity is one of the things that can surprise even the most party-hardened resident…for example, in how many towns can you have a crazy Bavarian night out, followed by a visit to a wild rock concert and then quaff a mellow after hour’s drink or two in a cosy pub…all on the same night, without walking more than a couple of minutes between venues?
On this particular Saturday just past, I was sitting at the table, damning the fact that I hadn’t donned my dirndl (yes, I have one…don’t ask). Monaco like its big sister Munich (which is incidentally also called ‘Monaco’ by our Italian friends, frequently causing confusion) has an Oktoberfest, hosted each year at the Cafe de Paris. This was my first port of call on Saturday night, having missed the festival the previous year. Running from the 16th – 25th of October this year, (but back on the casino square every year,) the festival is crammed with traditional food, yodelling, beer, dancing and polka music belted out by a lederhosen-clad band. You’d be forgiven for thinking this could be a kitsch alpine-style hell, but whilst the repetitive calls for beer toasts get mildly irritating after you’ve heard them a fifth or sixth time, the food is unarguably tasty, and the entertainment, whilst a trifle cheesy, is terrific fun. (I did chicken out of the spontaneous conga – forgive me, even I have my limits!)
Once the blonde beer had been quaffed and the delicious strudel had been finally packed into an already over-stuffed British stomach, it was bye-bye Bavaria, hello Moods…
Moods has to be one of my favourite venues in Monaco. The live music bar might be overlooked by the uninitiated, nestling as it does at the back of the Cafe de Paris, just off the Casino Square. But, dear visitor, overlook it at your peril. Not only does the cavernous underground venue look terrific, but the musical offerings, which are for the most part free of a cover charge (except during festivals and the like) are absolutely top notch.
This week saw the veteran English rockers ‘The Quireboys‘ take to the stage (although equally it could be a jazz, funk, or pop act gracing the boards, depending on the night you choose to visit). On this particular Saturday night, the place was packed to the gills with eager fans and rock initiates alike, with the normally reticent Monaco crowd on their feet singing along, demanding several encores with stomping feet. And being good hosts, not only did we girls jump up and down a lot and offer lots of encouragement, but we took the band for a bevvy afterwards, once Moods had closed.
The next port of call was, (where else with a rock band in tow?) McCarthy’s Irish pub. We know that every town has an Irish pub (Dublin, apparently has several..) but ours, we feel, is a particularly good one. Homey, warm, and with wee pizzas as addictive as illegal substances, McCarthy’s has a convivial atmosphere, a fine collection of Irish whiskeys, and the best pint of Guinness in town.
So there we have it…the kitsch, the cool and the laid back, from the sublime to the ridiculous (or perhaps that should be in reverse order) in a single evening. (Rock and ) roll on next weekend!
Ghana – A Land of Two Faces
By SARAH KENDELL
When I first arrived in Ghana for a three-month volunteer program in its capital, Accra: I was surprised. Scanning its paved roads and large buildings, I decided I had been naive in my views of Africa as a wilderness of few modern utilities. Indeed, despite being a destination few people have heard of, the city seemed well equipped to deal with the volunteer tourism trend. It had an international airport serviced by several major European airlines, welcoming locals who spoke English, and its city schools and orphanages were well-staffed with visiting volunteers like myself.
However, when some friends and I decide to strike out on our own for a week, we began to experience an Africa more like the one I’d previously envisioned. Outside of the capital, Ghana becomes a land with few utilities and fewer rules.
Our intention was to take a two-day ferry from the nearby town of Akosombo, heading north up the Volta River, which runs along Ghana’s eastern border. Disembarking in the town of Yeji, we would make our way by bus to the northern city of Tamale and finally to Mole National Park, a safari reservation where elephants and antelope roamed free.
But first, the boat. We unwisely ignored our guidebook’s advice to purchase a first-class cabin, and found our second class carriage basic to say the least . It consisted of a room of about 10 benches on which 100 passengers were meant to find their beds for two nights. This didn’t seem to bother the Ghanaians on board, who were in high spirits, watching loud local movies until about 1am. When I finally settled down on my bench for a couple of hours’ sleep, a woman’s voice boomed out from the other side of the carriage. Having little grasp of the local languages, I struggled to understand what she was desperately trying to convey in the darkness, but when others began echoing “Amen” I understood – she was giving an impromptu sermon!
The idea of enduring another similar night didn’t excite my friends or I, so we disembarked the next morning in the village of Keta Krachi, hoping to make it partway to Tamale by nightfall. However getting a tro-tro (the small vans that serve as national public transport) was not as easy as in Accra. The driver would take us halfway for a hundred and fifty cedis, roughly seventy-five euros. A reasonable price for a five-hour bus journey by normal standards, but for us locals, so used to taking Accra’s tro-tros for around fifty euro cents each, it was laughable. After haggling for an hour, we gave up. We were stranded until tomorrow, when the regular service going north would depart.
The next day, experiencing the almost intraversible dirt road, I understood the driver’s reluctance. With every pothole, I thought the old VW’s tyres were going to fall off. We picked up more and more people along the road, until they were sitting on the roof and hanging off the sides, balancing sacks of clothing and even goats. But if they wanted to get to Tamale, this was their only way. It also involved stopping continually at phoney police checkpoints, where opportunistic local officers charged a ‘road tax’ per vehicle, knowing there was no other way for drivers going north.
The Lake
I like going out of Milan, once in a while. So speaking of Italian snow and mountains in the previous post, how not to mention a lake standing in pre-alpine territory….
45 km North of Milan you have a town called Como. 30 minute ride if you take the highway, even though the simplest way is to go by train: “Cadorna” train station, catch the first train to Como and you’re on the lake.
I recommend enjoying the Duomo: take a seat in one of the restobars facing the church and admire:
You will surely take a walk on the lakeside, watching the surrounding hills. There is a funicular climbing up on the left side hill facing the lake. It goes up to Brunate, the village in top of that hill. It’s not obvious to spot it from the land… …but it will be more clear from the boat.
Yep, boat. One of the main reasons reason why you would like to go there….. is taking a trip on the Como lake itself. So what about checking that little ticket office on the lakeside, right in front of the main square? Two courses for tourist trips: long version and short version. Approximately a boat each half hour, reasonable price… Take your sweater, k-way and jump on board.
You will be delightfully carried through villas between steep shorelines and hills gazing from the top. You will certainly notice small details such as semi-visible pathways all along the coast, between one villa and the other:
Wonder about George Clooney’s villa? Hah…. I leave you with the challenge of spotting it. It’s in Brienno, one of the tiny villages on the shore.
Don’t miss the chance to stopover at one of these towns. Take a tour, eat ice-cream or have your aperitivo – and then take one of the next boats.. You will have the chance to relax, gazing around and wandering through small docks:
As a last step, if you came here by car, take the road to Bellagio. No, not the Casino. That is in Las Vegas….. Bellagio is actually a town on Como lake. You will enjoy both the road and, once you are there, a nice view on the lake with Alp mountains in the background.
Are you too lazy to drive or just want some particular experience? Want to “hitchhike” an airplane? ….Yes, we have that on the lake. You might want to check if George is in there too..
Air Taxi
I never tried to make a thumb up sign to one of those…. I should, one day.
The British Film Institute’s London Film Festival
BY SHEYMA BUALI
crowds, lights and movie madness
Some may say its half over, but I say there’s another half yet to come. This year’s BFI London Film Festival has movies brought to us here from all corners of the world, you name it: Senegal, Egypt, Austria, Brazil, Korea, Australia, Palestine, Ireland and on and on and on, not to mention more Far Eastern, Near Eastern, Middle Eastern, more African and Eastern European, more Scandinavian, more British and need I mention all the regions of the world? Hybrids or transnational films are also among them, an interesting one would be Jim Jarmusch’s Spanish/American/Japanese production, The Limits of Control. So the international level of this year’s Festival is really far reaching.
And of course, the genres are not at all limited either. Documentary and experimental films are also in the program. Educational nights and matinees, Q & A’s with directors, actors and other players involved, and talks about the future or character of film in different genres or in different countries. It’ll get political, technical, practical and even fantastical.
Prices range depending on the location of the screening. All venues have a standard weekday matinee price of 7pounds. Otherwise they range from free to 12pounds for regular film viewings. Fifteen pounds is the price for special screenings, and Gala party tickets can be purchased for 25pounds (during which there is also a screening). The participating cinemas range across London from Dalston’s historical Rio, Brixton’s famous Ritzy, the cinemas around the grand Leicester Square, of course the British Film Institute itself, and many more around town from Mayfair to Shoreditch.
Having gone to two films already and four more tickets in hand, I have been really excited to have a chance to see films that will probably not be on general release later. In fact, this evening (wild and crazy Thursday night) I plan to attend the annual BFI National Archives and London’s Screen Archive screening. It’s free, it goes on for two hours, and it’s in the open-air in the center of Trafalgar Square. Celebrate London in a monumental spot surrounded by historical moving images.
If one is lucky enough to be here during this jam packed two weeks of movie madness, I definitely recommend a look at the program.
Find reviews of films and events in various websites such as:
BFI
The Times on-line
Pure Movies
Talking Animal
Time Out
and other sites of-course…
go to the BFI site to get a full program of the remaining 8 days.
It is all well recommended!
You can follow Sheyma on Twitter @sheymab
A Jewel of Turquoise Beauty
BY KATIE KENNEDY
There’s a jewel of turquoise beauty that lies South West of Vietnam and Cambodia, and it goes by the name of Phu Quoc Island. It’s one of those places you don’t really want people to find out about and it’s what I had been longing for since I’d left my homely comforts of South Manchester. If beaches and paradise are your thing, then move fast and get over there while it’s still low-key.
Emerald waters, solitude, lush mountains and white, squeaky sand (there, I said it) drape the landscape of Vietnam’s finest scene. The best way to make the most of this paradise is to hire a motorbike and brave the red dirt tracks of the island. Once you see the locals fly past you with the most ridiculously awkward objects hanging off the sides of their bikes, – hello fridges, pineapples, crates upon crates of beer and a family of four, all at once – you won’t worry too much about hitting the deck, so to speak. Learn to use the horn for anything and everything imaginable, and go exploring. Long Beach has the biggest range of budget to high-end accommodation. We stayed at Viet Thanh and as it was off-season we managed to get a double room with a fan and private bathroom for $7/n. However if you can, I would stay on or near Bai Sao. Long Beach itself is beautiful, but believe me when I say that getting on your bike and discovering Bai Sao beach is well worth it. It’s not as easy to find as you’d imagine and we weren’t alone in realising that we’d missed the unsuspecting dirt track several times. We finally managed to narrow it down and find it though after asking the locals when filling up for gas.
On arriving you get hit with an overwhelming sense of self-satisfaction. Why it isn’t over-run with tourists, backpackers and the like, I really don’t know. It holds an essence of mystery and solitude, yet is not so isolated that you feel you might to have to build a raft and row back to Vietnam’s mainland in desperate need of some Uncle Ho pictures of Pho Bo. The main town of Duong Dong holds some of the best Ho Chi Minh memorabilia you can lay your hands on. And as for the food? Walk down to the night market and after haggling for some Uncle Ho tat, delve into some of the finest and freshest seafood that will ever be served to you, and plentiful.
We lay there content in knowing we had made it to arguably one of the world’s finest beaches. My advice to you is to go as soon as you can. Vietnam is expanding; it’s a plethora of old and new, it’s developing fast and you can feel it booming. The Vietnamese know how to make business and they want to make that buck. Off the stretch of Long Beach, early development for lavish golf courses and overpowering hotels is already looming. Often on my jaunts around Southeast Asia I spoke with others about whether these ‘off the beaten track’ beaches and places still exist. Well, they do, you just need to put down your guide, do some talking, and you’ll find that when you stumble across that beach, everyone else there has come across it by word of mouth and is equally as relieved that these places are still out there, right under your nose. Contrary to popular belief, they even still exist in Thailand, but we’ll come to this later. Places which hold the ultimate balance of blissful relaxation and beers until you can’t see straight. Beaches that haven’t been ruined by full-moon revellers, over-development or Alex Garland’s omnipresence. Don’t feel bad if you get that pang of selfishness in not wanting it to get over-commercialised or discovered by too many others, but accept that maybe one day that will be the case, and for now relish in its immense beauty and your luckiness.
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