A day in Montevideo
BY JENNA VAN SCHOOR
I hear the ggggr-king ca-chunk of the sliding door as I step out onto the balcony. There is a low hum of waves, voices and cars from La Rambla (promenade) below. The sea is unusually blueish today, and not the usual milky coffee brown. Montevideo, the capital port city of Uruguay, is just across the bay from Buenos Aires, where a hydro-collision of the Rio del Plata and Atlantic Ocean takes place.
I’m enjoying my own milky coffee instead from the vantage point of a white plastic chair and eighth floor view. Buses whirr past and pedestrians stroll across the grassy patches under the palm trees, or ride their bikes along the pavement. From here I can just see the road curving towards Pocitos beach, and to my right the uphill suburban artery of Calle 21 de Septiembre, known colloquially only as viente-uno (twenty-one).
Raven, the afro-haired American friend I am visiting, is inside at her round-tabled desk. At the end of a four-month exchange program at a local university, she is attempting to finish her final essay, but is really watching Obama speeches on YouTube instead. I know it’s only a matter of time before it’s mid-afternoon and she’s tired of procrastinating- the perfect time to take me capital city exploring instead.
Raven’s apartment is conveniently located along several bus routes, so it’s only a few minutes waiting time until the next one bound for Cuidad Vieja (Old Town). She has warned me that speed is key when getting into, and off, Montevideo city buses, and as the doors nearly cut me off I realize why. Sixteen pesos in correct change to the man on my left and we are on our way. Next to a conspicuously blonde English speaker, Raven looks like even more of a tourist.
I know this because she tells me, loudly, feeling all her fluent speaking Spanish skills become void as passengers stare. Many hold on to thermal flasks of hot water, and take sporadic sips of maté through bombillas (filter spoon-like straws). Maté, a bitter green drink that is also consumed in Argentina and Chile, seems to be the ultimate liquid necessity in Montevideo. There are even vending machine hot water dispensers at gas stations.
Several maté drinking passengers get off the bus before our stop. I take Raven’s advice and get off the bus faster this time, my feet barely making contact with the pavement before I feel the vacuum pull of the bus driving off again behind me. Sufficiently recovered, and gaining momentum as we dodge human pedestrian traffic, Raven leads me along Calle 18 de Julio (18 July).
Montevideo, like many other South American cities, names streets after major political events. In this case, Calle 18 de Julio commemorates the date Uruguay received its first constitution in 1830. As we walk along the busy street, we pass stores like Gucci, McDonalds, and the reliably inexpensive Indian Emporium, where Raven bought her current pair of grey plimsolls. She also points out Chivito d’Oro (Golden Chivito), which is rumoured to serve the best chivito in the city.
Chivito, along with faina and pizza with no cheese, are a few examples of lunch in Montevideo. Chivito is essentially a hamburger/sandwich, with a variety of fillings, from regular to canadiense (olives, egg, pickles, onions and bacon). Faina, a type of baked cornmeal, is normally served with a tomato relish, and preferentially with a shared bottle of 750ml Patricia beer or soft drink.
Hungry, we decide to eat in the Cuidad Vieja, but not before I am distracted by the towering art-deco style Salvo Palace at the end of Calle 18 de Julio, on the Plaza Independencia. The equestrian statue of liberation leader José Artigas also has a prominent place on the main square, above his well-guarded mausoleum.
From the Plaza Independencia we head past the trestle tables of antique jewellery, collectables, leather goods and maté paraphernalia in the Cuidad Vieja. We don’t make it past the ice-cream parlour though. I choose a wafer cone with a double scoop of peanut butter and dulce de leche flavour, a caramel spread often eaten on bread for breakfast.
If I’d known, I would have opted for only one scoop, because in Montevideo a “scoop” really means “huge spadeful”. I don’t want to waste, and I can’t stop, the ice cream is just too rich and delicious. I finish the entire milky, biscuity mess, and feel suitably uncomfortable as we walk further into the Cuidad Vieja suburban streets. I notice the juxtaposition of modern square apartment blocks and graffiti scrawls on concrete walls and old-deco style buildings with balconies flying the victorious Frente party flag.
We head towards the pier, and sit for a while on the sun warmed concrete slabs next to the harbour. Our stomachs sick from lactose overload in the late afternoon sunshine. Raven tells me more about life in Montevideo, its idiosyncrasies and tranquilo (relaxed) feel. This is no more apparent when soon after we sat down three teenagers next to us sparked up a joint, tranquilo.
With the sweet smoky still lingering in my nostrils we make our way back up through the dusk-lit streets of the Cuidad Vieja, as people clip-clop past on horse drawn garbage carts and a little kid plays on a colourful plastic laptop in his front door step. A green neon lettered hanging sign advertises carnadas (bait) and reparacion de reels y cañas (repair of reels and reeds, or rather, rods).
A middle-aged man steps out from a corner bakery as we approach, one that probably sells syrupy sweet mini media-lunas (croissants) and neatly sealed empanadas, or savoury pastries. He shouts something vaguely comprehensible to me, but Raven understands.
“He just called you a French fry,” she says.
I laugh, not sure if this is a complement, and ignore any further jibes as we walk on, at a fair pace towards the post-work evening buzz of the main square. We repeat the bus-on, bus-off process until I am sitting in my white plastic chair again, watching the approach of darkness.
A Day in Santiago
BY PAULINA SIERRA
I arrived to Santiago de Chile (www.lan.com) along with my mother and sister one night during the first days of last July, a winter month in the southern hemisphere. We went directly to our hotel, The Grand Hyatt Santiago located at Las Condes district. When planning our trip, we were advised to stay there without considering any other hotel option, and that we must make sure to book a room with a guaranteed view to The Andes. We went to sleep and the morning after, we understood immediately why all that insisting on us to follow the advice… We woke up before sunrise, and as we were getting ready for our day tour around the city, the morning light revealed upon our window one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen: the snowy peaks of The Andes surrounding the city like an old story fortress began to appear as daylight became stronger, offering us an unforgettable picture of a sky painted in pinks, oranges, purples and blues, making a perfect contrast with the whiteness of the mountains. So far I wasn’t even out of my hotel room, and I could already assure that the sight of the city guarded and protected by such a beautiful mountain range, had already made worthy my stay in Santiago.
After this breathtaking wake up, we had a delicious breakfast in the hotel, and then began our city tour. Our first stop was the government palace, known as Palacio de la Moneda, where we went to see the change of guard. Then we headed towards the Civic Centre, where the Main Square and other important historical and cultural buildings are located. Most of them are considered National Monuments, like the Cathedral, La Plaza de Armas, Santo Domingo’s Church, and The National History Museum building. It really called my attention what a clean and tidy city Santiago is. In downtown’s promenade, there are several public washrooms incredibly clean and safe, and the best part is that all of them are environmentally friendly! Even better than the tidiness of the streets and landmarks, what is still more remarkable, is the people of Santiago. Everybody is so polite, gentle and attentive, that the attitude of most of them reminds what many people living in big cities have already forgotten: the importance of being nice and kind even with strangers.
Once we visited all the major landmarks, we were taken to a lapis lazuli workshop. This blue semi-precious rock is very popular in Chile. In fact, this country has one of the most important deposits of lapis lazuli in the world, so it is considered a must to buy something made out of this beautiful rock when visiting Chile. We tasted the Pisco Sour, Chile’s national drink. It is a cocktail made of pisco (a liquor distilled from grapes), lemon juice, syrup and other ingredients. It tastes almost like margaritas…
Next we went to Santiago’s Metropolitan Park, located over a hill called Cerro San Cristóbal. It has a very beautiful panoramic sight of the whole city and it also offers many outdoor attractions. It has a botanical garden which includes a very important exhibit of indigenous flora.
The city tour finished near noon, so we had half day to keep touring around. Our first choice was to stay in Santiago and go to the Central Market, very famous for the quality, freshness and price of the seafood they sell there; it is especially popular for the Centolla King Crab everybody loves. Nevertheless, we decided to make the most out of our only afternoon here by going over to Valparaíso and Viña del Mar.
The first stop was in Valparaíso, one of the biggest seaports and a very relevant cultural centre. At first sight, the truth is that I didn’t understand quite well what my impression of the city was. I couldn’t say that it was very pretty because it looks a little dirty and messy, but at the same time there is something out there that makes it very interesting and somehow picturesque. I read on the Lan Chile’s airplane magazine an article that recommended very much a tour in this port to visit the workshops of many of the great number of artists that live there. It came to my attention because it started saying that if Valparaíso was the place where Ruben Darío dreamed about his poems, Pablo Neruda built his home La Sebastiana, and many famous painters were inspired there thanks to coincidence or because of its views, it didn’t matter at all… the point was that Valparaíso had that special something that could inspire anyone. Indeed, it is a very popular and visited site, so I guess it really has a very unique charm that can’t be found elsewhere. The narrow and curvy streets are full of urban art and plaques with poems fragments in every corner, and a bohemian spirit is sensed almost everywhere around. At the end I could say that I liked the place, but it takes a little time to inspire and sense all that magic artists and visitors talk about.
Viña del Mar is cleaner and organized than Valparaíso. It has many modern beachfront buildings and an interesting Rapa-Nui museum. This city hosts the Viña del Mar International Song Festival, considered the most important musical event in Latin America; it takes place every February at the Quinta Vergara Amphitheatre.
When we got back to Santiago, we went to have dinner to one of most unique places ever. Boragó is owned and managed by the chef Rodolfo Guzmán, and it is considered one of the best restaurants in all Latin America. The chef also has biochemistry skills, and his food creations are known as “molecular cuisine”. The restaurant stands out for using only Chilean endemic products, applying the best scientific and cuisine knowledge to create the most unusual, exotic and delicious dishes. The chef’s idea is to evoke with his creations all of the country’s landscapes and regions, helped by the flavours and plate presentations. The restaurant’s concept is by far the most original I’ve known about. The combination of flavours, colours and textures is amazing, it is not only an unbeatable experience for taste, but also for all the other senses. Definitely this place is also a must in Santiago, no one visiting the city can miss the chance of this extraordinary dinner experience.
After dinner, we went to sleep. The next day we were going to begin the Lake Crossing trip from Chile to Argentina.
It feels like home in Paris
BY YETUNDE OSHODI
Coming to Paris often means having to possibly do some serious saving or some serious compromising when it comes to accommodations. Hotel prices can be hefty if you want a little more than a box to sleep in. Even some of the higher priced hotels may still only offer beautiful but tight spaces.
However should you wish to consider an alternative to hotels that will let you have more space, more freedom and truly feel like a local for a brief period of time, why not check out short-term apartment rentals as a great alternative and here’s the rub, you are certainly not spoiled for choice.
In the Parisian market we feel that one small company stands out primarily due to its amazing service. This gem is called “Feels Like Home in Paris”.
Started in 2005, Feels Like Home in Paris has been offering vacation rental apartments ranging from studio to 2 bedrooms located mainly in Montmartre, Paris’ Bohemian northern district as well as properties in the 9th, 10th and 11th district.
Here’s what Feels Like Home has to say about themselves: “The Feels Like Home in Paris method of hospitality comes with a personal touch – From the email correspondences to the meet and greet, you’ll be sure to feel the difference. Our hope is that we somehow manage to transfer our passion for what we do and where we live, to help set you off on the right foot to a wonderful holiday in Paris.
Your stay in Paris starts off with an introduction to your comfortable, relaxing apartment by a local (that’s us), to help you feel like a native. From finding the local boulangerie or utilizing the bus instead of just the metro, you will feel at ease after the brief but thorough orientation.
Our welcome book has all the information you will need about food shopping, local restaurants and more. We provide you with a welcome basket full of special goodies to get you started on an enjoyable Parisian experience – wine, French biscuits, jams, coffee and more.
We hope to be able to provide you with the opportunity to create long-lasting memories here in Paris, as we have.”
Long story short, the guests seem to have a similar take on the service. i.e.
The service is superb, the agency people are very nice, the apartment is well equipped and had a fantastic view. This crew really deliver their promise: we felt home in Paris! - Jeroen
After trolling through the myriad of websites of Parisian accommodation, I came across the Feels Like Home website and knew immediately they had what we were looking for. The French Flair apartment was perfect for our 2 day stay in Paris! – Celia
But don’t take it from us, check out Feels Like Home in Paris for your next trip to the city on the Seine.
AROUND THE WORLD…IN LAUSANNE
BY TANIA HOROUPIAN
During your next stop in Lausanne, Switzerland, take a gastronomic trip around the world with a visit to Kai Zen Restaurant. Open since May of 2007, Kai Zen is located in the heart of the city and offers a menu and wine list with flavours from some of the world’s most exciting destinations.
What can you expect? A laid-back start to your night with a drink in Kai Zen’s “see and be seen” lounge. With a backdrop of music ranging from lounge to nu-jazz, funk to house, it’s the perfect way to start your evening with friends, work colleagues or that “special someone”. Enjoy a beverage from the elaborate drink menu that provides a great choice of traditional classics, signature cocktails, beers and wines (Mission Reserva – Carmenere from Chili is a personal favourite…). For those of you who prefer your drinks non-alcoholic, there is also an extensive range of options for you, such as the Paris (raspberries, strawberries, lemon and cranberry) or New York (white peach, lemon and red bull) Coolers. After your apéro, head into the red-themed dining lounge, where you can watch the talented kitchen staff at work through a floor-to-ceiling glass wall and enjoy a décor of unique artwork hanging on the walls (yes, available for sale). For your meal, pick a selection of entrées, main courses and desserts from one of the five themed menus, where the options are based on traditional flavours and favourites from New York, Paris, Rome, Tokyo or Bangkok. Or – if you’re feeling adventurous – shake things up by mixing and matching from the different menus. How about an appetizer from Bangkok, an entrée from New York and a dessert from Paris? Author recommends the Yam Kung Ya (gambas salad with nuoc mam vinaigrette – hard to pronounce but incredible to eat…), the “Giselle Bundchen” burger (a delicious ratio of beef and bun and also – let’s face it – the closest you’ll ever get to her…) and the Fondant au Chocolate (flowing dark chocolate and a layer of raspberry. Enough said). Top off the night with a digestif and you’re officially set for the rest of your evening in the night scene of Lausanne.
Have two nights in the city? Head over to Le Bedroom, Kai Zen’s brand new sister restaurant, located in Lausanne’s trendy “Flon” district. Opened in late 2009, it features the same sexy décor and atmosphere as Kai Zen, with the added feature of large couch bankettes and oversized pillows, where you can enjoy a cocktail, live music and the company of friends before sitting down to a great meal of international tapas and a range of classic and innovative entrées.
Add some flavour to your next visit in Lausanne with a trip to Kai Zen. Your tastebuds, friends – and wallet – will thank you!
Contact:
Rue Pépinet 3, 1003 Lausanne
T: +41 21 310 8484
F: +41 21 310 8481
Beating the Winter Blues in London
BY NARA VIDAL
A lot has been written and said about how to beat the winter blues with beautiful turquoise water and hot sun over your naked shoulder somewhere tropical. All well and good, but most times this means spending money. What about those poor souls with no cash to spend on a pick me up sunny retreat? Do they suffer from winter blues less than the wealthier people out there in the Caribbean on a break? Chances are, that we all are a bit low and bit sad these days, when the cold and darkness invade not only our towns but also our souls. Well, you sad and cash limited people out there, worry no more. The way out this winter depression is to find somewhere hot in the cold city. We came up with a list of piping hot things to do that will not break the bank and will not require a passport.
Fancy a Brazilian?
Check out Saturday night in Guanabara. No, we are not suggesting you jet off to Rio. Instead head off to Covent Garden and check out this hot venue with some first quality music and dance. The bar is open from Monday to Sunday, but Saturdays are the days you can meet the Brazilians who seem to go there in search of warmth and some good flirt. Try a caipirinha or two, if you can afford it, and get into the samba with friends or with the friendly faces that will probably smile at your lack of rhythm without caring too much. Don’t forget that throughout this month you get 2 drinks for the price of one!
If you fancy a bite to eat, try the tapas style food like coxinhas and pão de queijo. In one of my trips there, I tried the à la carte food and was slightly disappointed. Perhaps I was expecting to be transported into a beach in Copacabana, perhaps it was not a good day for the chef, who knows! Guanabara still is, however, a great option if you want to avoid the same old pub and spice up your Saturday night.
Guanabara is a short walk from Holborn or Covent Garden tube stations at Parker Street WC2B 5PW
If you feel a bit more adventurous and would like to see something more artistic and edgy find your way to Favela Chic Bar in Shoreditch. A slightly pretentious but fun venue, featuring its fair deal of shabby chic, this bar is a melting pot of Brazilian popular culture items and definitely good enough to eat. Described rightly as a menagerie for its fusion, Favela Chic is inspired in Brazilian slums and bohemian Parisian life. The result is a messy and exciting place to hang out that brings alternative films and exhibitions as well as some fantastic cocktails made by the gorgeous Sagatiba cachaça – Brazilian spirit made by sugar cane. Beware of the Lagerinha, a combination of beer and cachaça, and only drink it if you have the whole of the next day off. If you don’t believe me, try.
For a detailed look at what is on – and there is a lot going on there! – visit www.favelachiclondon.com
Chic and Civilized
If you have in mind something a little less exotic and that does not involve dancing in front of strangers, then a great and very civilized option to get entertained is to explore some of the wine tasting places on offer in London. There is little originality about the idea, but depending on how you plan it out or make it an event with friends, this can be a guaranteed winter blues remedy.
Vinopolis www.vinopolis.co.uk is a great place for a fun afternoon or evening out with your mates if you are wine experts or simply curious about the basics. Located a few minutes from London Bridge tube station, Vinopolis offers master class courses or simple wine tours that can be a lot of fun.
If wine is then the way to warm up in the frosty winter, then a more serious but very informative alternative is to visit the wine tasting sessions at the Institute Française at 17 Queensburry Place. An absolute indulgence for the palate, the classes are run by some of the best wine connoisseurs in London who introduce you to the wonders of types of grapes in France and its regions. Attention also to the fantastic wine and cheese tasting, which is a true treat to your senses. The wine sessions cost £29 and are held once or twice a month in the beautiful wood panelled library. Catch a lesson on the 25th of January and learn about southern France wines. More details on www.institut-francais.org.uk
If however, you don’t feel like dancing or drinking, then you can always jet off to a tropical paradise, if money is no objection. If you don’t feel like dancing, drinking or jetting off, you can always sit and wait for the summer.
Have fun this season!
Otto Zutz – One of the Worst Clubs in Barcelona
Here at ProjecTravel we usually don’t slam establishments, instead we try and offer you insight into the places that are exceptional, more fun, and all around set a high standard of quality or offer something special, but when Javier sent us in this review, we just had to publish it as we’re 100% on board when it comes to his take on this Barcelona establishment.
BY JAVIER TORRES
Barcelona is filled with good nightlife, and there’s undeniably a place for everyone in this city, but one place stands out from among the rest, however not in the good way, this place is Otto Zutz, located on C/ Lincoln 15 in the area that borders Gracia & St. Gervasi.
From the outside you’d think it to be like any club out there, except that once inside it’s total utter rubbish. Where shall we start to defame this “legendary” Barcelona institution.
Let’s start with the operations. If you call ahead, you get on the “VIP” list and enter free, if you don’t expect to pay up to €20 a pop for entry depending on how the guy at the door feels about you. Acceptable behaviour for a place such as 1OAK in NYC, or even Sutton on C/ Tusset here in BCN, but to fully understand why this price is ridiculous for Otto’s let’s talk about the music, the clientelle, and service.
The DJ’s at this establishment are reminiscent of Top 40 radio, included in this are poor transitions from song to song, where you the patron are left for sometimes up to half a minute listening to silence, if you’re lucky though, the DJ will make a comment about the next song set and why he thinks it a good idea to switch from house to Green Day, and then Alice in Chains before moving into Wold Come On by Bob Sinclair. Simply put it can be a cacophonous disaster.
Moving on, while on occasion you may stumble into the occasional “pijo” (preppy person), the majority of the crowd is just random, it doesn’t really fit in anywhere, very much like the music that this joint plays.
Then you’ve got the VIP area and service. Like most establishments they have a VIP area, and sure enough you can get a few bottles etc… but what’s funny about this VIP is that like the clientele it’s random, very random, from people in their 40’s and 50’s to your late teens. All those allowed in who are not bottle buyers are seemingly chosen at random. I remember an example when a few years back we wound up in the place, and my friend and I were heading to the VIP area as some friends were there, both of us had on flip flops, the bouncer let me in, but not my friend, why? His flip flops didn’t have the toe divider, they were flat, and the bouncer decided that he had on Shower Shoes, whereas I was ok to continue. Prepostrous to sat the least.
Finally, let’s get to the prices. Mind you, it’s not about paying for service, you do, CLDC, Elephant, Ribelino’s are all pricy, but they have something to offer, a good ambiance, a good DJ, and a relaxed and fun crowd. This place lacks all of those and charges prices on the same level if not in excess of the other clubs, the drinks are weak, and served in plastic cups.
I’m a lifelong Barcelona resident, and I have to say, I’ve never understood the appeal of this place.
We Hop the top 3 Dive Bars of New Orleans
BY JON DELACROIX
You could cut the smoke with a knife. In the corner stood a couch, probably Goodwill or Salvation Army second hand, the barstools were scattered and one of them make a distinctive impression, it was an older looking dentist’s chair, late 60’s maybe early 70’s from the look of it.
The bar’s selection of liquors was meager, and in front of us, on a fold out chair sat an older black gentleman, he took out his guitar, introduced himself as Little Freddie King and his backup band, a group of thirty to forty something white guys, his backup ensemble, and started playing, his fingers darting up and down the neck of his Les Paul.
The place was B.J.’s in Bywater, East New Orleans, past the 9th Ward and the music was like something that you only imagine happening in some novel. The whole experience was surreal; the drive out there saw us pass over tracks and into neighborhood that looked not much different from a shantytown.
This is the real New Orleans, the off the Beaten Path New Orleans that not many tourists get to see. Forget your French Quarters and your St. Charles Avenues, the heart of NOLA lies in the little beat up dives scattered around the black pearl.
With that we can tell you of two more places that are absolute gems that any city explorer would be sad not to have visited, furthermore, they both lye uptown and are, simply put a must on anyone’s list, local or otherwise.
The first, is Snake & Jake’s Christmas Club Lounge, located on 7612 Oak St., in the area surrounding Tulane and Loyola Universities, and while you may run into University students there in the early morning hours, don’t let this put you off.
Snake’s clientele is just as unique as the bar, and within the local faire you’ll undoubtedly see what makes this place a top 10 American Dive Bar as rated by Playboy, and hell, with a hard coded POI on the New Orleans map by Google, it’s got to tell you something!
When heading there, take a cab or just walk from Braodway, note though that you may miss it if you’re not careful as the place can look like an abandoned shack, simply put, look for a small structure that has a Christmas Wreath hanging above the door, and the building is right next to an Oak Tree.
Next up on our list we’ve got Butlers for you, located on 140 Millaudon St., it’s an Auburn Colored house, just on the corner before Leake Ave. The bar is effectively in the basement and the walls are covered with images of Curtis Mayflied, Stevie Wonder, and the like, the lighting is red and an array of couches and comfortable chairs adorn the place. On certain nights you’ll find a DJ spinning any sort of music but the vibe is usually relaxed. Note that, like Snakes things don’t tend to pick up until late, so best time to start would be circa 1am, and as one local put it “Butler’s has all the feeling of hanging out in your best friend’s basement, if your best friend was a laid-back pimp.” Oh year and they also have Atari for you to play.
As such, laissez les bon temps rouler.
New York’s Subway Secrets
BY J.J. FAULK
While the metropolis churns the people of New York often forget about what secrets the city holds underneath its busy streets. And while images of H.G. Well’s Morlocks may instantaneously come to mind, as may Jennifer Toth’s Mole People. The sad truth is that the largest abundance of mammals tunnel mammals are in fact rats. But that is not to say that a journey into the deep is all the less interesting.
The Old City Hall Station
In fact one of the easiest ways to see a beautiful vestige of the NYC Subway system is to stay on the 6 train as it embarks to loop around and start its journey northward on the Lexington Line. If you should decide to play the role of the sleeping vagabond, you’ll see the Old City Hall Station, officially closed in 1945 due to the demand for more cars, and longer trains. Though truth be told with the NYPD standing on the platforms protecting us from potential terrorists we’d advise against this. After all, no one wants to be hauled off for questioning.
In the event that you do want to see the Old City Hall Station, the NY City Transit Museum does on occasion run a train called the “Jewel in the Crown: Old City Hall Station” opening it up to visitors, and if you do have the opportunity to be one of the fortunate passengers we highly recommend you take it. You’ll instantaneously notice the station’s majestic tiling and style. Quite befitting the hall of this majestic city.
Beach’s 1960’s NYC Subway Service
Today London may have the oldest underground network in the world, but if not for a bit of bad financing, and politicking the honor would have gone to New York. In the 1860’s New York had its first subway station fully constructed. This was the idea of Alfred Beach, the then Editor of Scientific American, and what’s truly amazing is that the train was in fact air powered, as in via a fan, it was the clean tech of the time, novel, innovative, and grand, but opposition to the idea made many of New York’s residents uncomfortable as popular thought was that it would destabilize the city’s buildings. Long story short, the train operated for a year until under Broadway until it eventually folded due to financial difficulties. Quite the shame.
Grand Central Station’s Secret Passage
Grand Central Terminal, home to Metro North, and that cool Park Ave. In the building road that takes you over 42nd St, well, and the Stars, and the Whispering Gallery by the OysterBar & Restaurant. Sure enough Grand Central has enough history to fill a book with. But did you know that underneath this spectacular building lies a secret network of underground tracks, tunnels and storage areas? Yup, and you can even find a secret platform that leads directly to the Waldorf-Astoria. President Franklin D. Roosevelt is the seldom line’s most famous passenger who apparently took it in order to evade the swarm of reporters. Unfortunately the entrance to the elevator, that takes you to the tunnel that takes you to the platform is now wielded shut.
The Second Ave. Line
The Second Avenue Subway Line, which got the go ahead from the Metropolitan Transit Authority (MTA) in 2007, was originally proposed 75 years earlier. Add to the cauldron the fact the need for it was realized shortly after the First World War, and you’ve got what people have been calling the “Line That Time Forgot”. Whether it’s for this reason or another, the line will be called the T, and feature a baby bluish circle, and run from Hanover Sq. to 125th St.
At a cost of $17 Billion, and what Mayor Bloomberg called an economic disaster on 2nd Ave, we’re still to see if it will ever be finished, but should it, it will absolutely be a welcome and needed addition to the system.
L’viv the Lion’s Gate to Eastern Europe
BY ANDREI KOLSHENKO
When you arrive, probably the first thing you’ll notice about L’viv is the architecture, and I don’t meant the gray concrete slabs that were erected by the Communists. L’viv as a city is very much facing westward, and it can be seen plain as daylight when walking around the old town.
The city itself was founded in the early 1200’s by Daniel of Galicia. In 1349 the city passed to Poland and King Casimir the III brought in Magdeburg Rights, which dictated an elected city council by the bourgeoisie class. Over the next few centuries the city grew both economically and religiously, and became a major hub of multiculturalism in the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. This was primarily to it being in the centre of many a conflict, invading Hungarians, Ottomans, Swedes, Russians and Cossacks all wound up settling in L’viv and bringing with them a part of their culture to the city.
In the 1600’s – the city established it’s first University, the University of L’viv, which currently is the oldest continuously operating University in Ukraine.
In 1772, with the first partition of Poland, the city passed to the Austria, and the Hapsburg Empire that tried unsuccessfully to Germanize the city, and in 1853, it became the first European city to install Street Lights.
After the fall of the Hapsburg Empire and the end of the First World War, the country once again fell into Polish hands and was a hot pocket of tension between Poles and Nationalist Ukrainians, and at the time was after Warsaw, the country’s second most important Cultural Center.
With 1939 the Second War the city saw itself initially occupied by the Soviets who pursued a policy of repression against the Ukrainians and Poles who had lived in the city for centuries, and with the breaking of the Ribbentrop pact, L’viv was then controlled by the Germans who committed atrocities of their own. In 1944, the city was once again re-occupied by Soviet forces who Arrested all dissidents and quelled any form of Polish or Ukrainian national sentiment. In 1946 the city became part of the Soviet Union, until finally receiving its well overdue independence in 1991.
But enough about history. The city offers many amazing sites to the tourist – its main promenade which starts at the Opera House and passes through the city centre is lined on both sides by restaurants and bars where you can spend a lazy summer afternoon sitting back, relaxing, and exploring the sites. Do note the Italian influenced Polish architecture, as it is truly reminiscent of something totally non Eastern, and poses quite the contrast with cyrillic lettering on the façades.
The castle atop the mound is also a worthy visit, as is the market square “Ploshcha Rynok” from which you can get a grand view of the old town. There are also plenty of Museums, anything from Arts Galleries, to Historic Museums, and some of the rarer kind such as the Museum of Embroidered Icons.
However if you do have the opportunity – definitely try and go to the Bania, a russian style sauna / baths that will definitely leave you relaxed and ready for the evening’s activities.
FOOD – For Westerners, Ukraine can be a very cheap place indeed, often you can have a full meal for no more then €2. The food will be good and hearty, but as with most places in the east, the Nuveau Riche have developed a taste for some truly upmarket foods as well.
€ – The Olga Cafe is some of, if not the best local food for a next to nothing price tag, but like with most things in this city it’s a tad difficult to find. It’s on Kopernika, behind the Trembita music store.
€€ – Kavkaz on Zelena St. will serve you up a dish of exquisite Georgian food that would make even Stalin forget his murderous ways and swoon like a wee babe.
€€€ – Veronica on Prospect Svobody offers a wonderful menu of European and specifically French dishes if your palate has had enough of hearty eastern food.
GOING OUT – The city has changed drastically over the past couple of years, and I’d say the best places to go out at night would be any of the following, Club Metro on Zelena St, No. 14, Milenium on Chornovola Av. No. 2, Picasso on Zelena St. No. 88, and Pozitiff also on Zelena No.14, downstairs by the Internet Cafe. Sounds strange but a great little lounge none the less. And in the case that a pub is your fancy, check out, Robert Doms Beer House, Kryiviyka, and the Blue Bottle.
That said, На здоров’я, and enjoy.
Habibi Lebanese food, Gran de Gracia.
We may have covered two Shawarmarrias previously, and while both good, this place is up there with the others, if not a bit better. In fact I’ll just come out and say it, it’s my favorite Shawarma place in all Barcelona.
It’s called Habibi, and during the lunch peak you’ll find it’s typically packed wall to wall – the food is just that good. Although a bit pricier that some other Shawarma joints in the neighborhood, Habibi offers food that is typically Lebanese. You can get anything from kefte, to lamb, and chicken shawarma, but what really makes this place stand out are the traditional dishes. Grilled meats with rice and a salad that is spiced with just enough cumin and parsley.
Notwithstanding, their Humous, and Tabouleh are killer, and the sauce has just the right amount of Tahini in it. Meaning, none of this Garlic or Spicy sauce rubbish that you’re used to in the UK, this is proper as should be done Lebanese grub.
That said, why not go give it a go. Location and details below.
Address:
Carrer Gran de Gràcia 7
Barcelona, 08012
Nearest Train: Green line L3: Diagonal
Phone: +34 93 217 9545
Dubai: Where the Future is Now
BY SHEYMA BUALI
Sheyma is one of the ProjecTravel City Bloggers you can read her other pieces on the PT London Blog, and can follow her on twitter @sheymab
Dubai is a city still growing. In fact, it seems now it’s going through that age where it’s being picked on in the schoolyard. Recent media frenzy over Dubai’s financial woes seems to have an air of glee from the point of the journalists reporting it. Regardless of financial trouble, as a place to visit it is still mind blowing and surreal.
I have been visiting Dubai quite regularly since 2002. Seeing its continuous development into a futuristic metropolis filling with an international population with the “tallest” this, “biggest” that, and “most talked about” other thing has actually been an endearing process, despite the cold exterior of the highway clad city.
The first time I visited was when the only skyscrapers were the Emirates Towers. I can say that architecturally, they still stand as my favourite. A set of twin buildings designed by Hazel Wong, they are muse to graphic designers creating brand symbols for the city. They include a feng-shui interior-designed hotel and a shopping mall, The Boulevard, in one Tower, and offices in the other. The two-floor mall houses exclusive regional and international brand names. Its also the spot for some of the night life in town hosting various types of places from swanky karaoke rooms to full-on wine bars.
But of course, the Dubai skyline has grown much since that first visit. Many more iconic architectural feats have popped up, such as the Burj Al Arab. The landmark building has been the subject of many documentaries and has in fact found its place on the Dubai license plate. Gold plated walls, rooms that come with a butler and a chauffer driven cars, and a helicopter pad adorns the rooftop of the sail shaped building for whoever is so inclined. It is, in fact, the only seven-star hotel in the world. The welcoming crew at the doors adorns all visitors with sprinkles of traditional rose water and a wrap-around of bukhoor.
Today, the most sought after building would be the yet-to-open Burj Dubai. The tallest building in the world is a slick looking scraper that pokes into the sky, almost visible from any spot. It will be, among other things, the address of the only Aramani Hotel in the world.
But other than futuristic architecture, Dubai also has a sense of what is ‘wanted’ in a holiday. The famous indoor Ski Dubai is located conveniently at the Mall of the Emirates. Equipped with five runs, the longest is 400 meters. If skiing isn’t your thing, then visit the water park: Wild Wadi! Lots of slides at this fun filled pool for kids and adults. Don’t miss the “Jumeirah Scare-ah” for the swoosh of your life! Or otherwise, people can just enjoy the beach. One thing that Dubai has, quite unique for a city, is a nice quiet beach – whether going to the public side or sticking to one of the hotel-serviced ends, the beauty is equal. A truly innovative thing about the beach is that on the far side off, there are two parallel tracks. One made of soft ground for runners, the other of solid ground for roller-bladers.
If none of this is what you went to the Arabian Peninsula for, go for something with a little more local flavour. The Desert Safari takes visitors out to the sand dunes in a four-wheel drive, stopping for photo ops, camel walks, ends with a tent dinner, some belly dancing and Arabian ‘gahwa’ (coffee). Or, through the same outlet, go by waters and enjoy a dhow cruise. Have dinner along the Dubai Creek by night.
Impressively, Dubai has a growing art scene being the base for a number of regional art publications and home to a number of regionally active galleries. The DIFC, Dubai’s financial center, has become home to a small art community where one can visit Cuadro Fine Art Gallery for well-rounded views of regional and international artists of various mediums. There is also The Empty Quarter, a highly sophisticated gallery that focuses particularly on photography. For more art, visit the Al Quoz area and see a number of art spaces and galleries including The Third Line, a gallery immerging on the international art scope that focuses mainly on contemporary Middle Eastern work. (more…)
BPremium: Barcelona’s own Nightlife Ticket and Bottle Service Launches
The day we’ve all been waiting for has arrived. Well ok, so it’s not the end to global hunger, or the eradication of poverty, but it’s pretty damn spiffy none the less. The good people at the Focs have come out with something truly innovative in the landscape of Barcelona nightlife. What is it? Well… let’s just put it this way.
1988 Parisian Clubs started selling reservations due to lack of general space, bottle included.
1993 Legendary NYC establishment the Tunnel starts offering bottles for $90 to its VIP clientele.
1995 Spy Bar in NYC makes bottle service mandatory for VIP room access.
2001 Lotus, Pangea, and Bungalow 8 start pimping bottles for $500 a pop, the concept starts spreading to other cities.
2006 The fiasco era begins with bottle assortments, and all sorts of other “creative” gimmicks to make the club experience unique.
2009 Technology invades and Nightlife service is offered the way it should be. BPremium Launches in Barcelona.
No more phone calls to the clubs, no more calls to your promoter trying to arrange a bottle or bottles or table service and not getting through. Streamlining all the hiccups of a good night out BPremium online Bottle and Ticket service for Barcelona´s Premium Nightife has made your night out the experience it should be. Flawless.
And to be honest, they launched just in time. What I mean by that is that it’s 10 days until New Years, and if you’re anything like me, your plans are probably still up in the air, and with an selection of the hottest venues in BCN at your fingertips and an easy and accessible way to purchase your tix for the occasion why on earth not use it.
Join their facebook group, and follow their twitter account, and you’ve got yourself one central focal point for all your BCN nightlife needs. Needless to say we cover only a few select services on ProjecTravel, and we only cover and talk about what we think is exceptional, BPremium.com is just that and we can’t wait to use it and see how it develops in the future. Well done gents, well done.
Busing from D.C.
A Boltbus turns a corner onto H Street in Northwest Washington.
By Elisabeth Grant
D.C. is a great place to be, but sometimes you’ve just got to get away. And with all those holiday presents sucking wallets dry, traveling cheaply is more important than ever this time of year. What’s a starving college student/young professional/person living in this economy to do? How about take the bus?
While perhaps not the most glamorous way to travel, taking the bus is an easy and affordable option. Let’s look at the perks, shall we?
1. It’s Cheap!
We’re talking prices for one way or round trip tickets that range between less than the cost of a cup of coffee (regular coffee! not even the fancy kind) to about what you’ve pay for a nice dinner out. That’s right, a bus ride out of D.C. will cost you between $1 and $35. Do you even need any other perks?
2. Buy Tickets at a Moment’s Notice
Many of the hassles that come with other types of travel aren’t a worry when you ride the bus. For the spontaneous traveler, its no problem buying tickets the day of (or even a few hours before). Buses come pretty much every hour.
This sign advertises the Far East Bus in Chinatown
3. Quick Departure
There’s also no need to show up hours before departure. Most of the bus lines recommend that you show up at least 15 minutes in advance so your seat isn’t given away to walkup passengers. And while it’s smart to observe this, many a passenger has been seen sprinting down the streets of D.C. to catch their bus with minutes to spare. No backups at security here.
4. Free Wi-Fi
Whether you’re trying to get some work done, or just catching up on CuteOverload, travel with BoltBus or MegaBus to partake in their free Wi-Fi.
5. Non-stop or one stop
One of the downsides of car travel is all the stops. Stopping for gas, stopping for restrooms, stopping to eat. With bus travel there’s a bathroom on board and driver focused on the destination.
Now that you’re totally convinced that bus travel is the way to go, let’s check out your options:
Chinatown Bus
The Chinatown Bus is grandfather of bus travel in the area. For years if you were looking for a cheaper alternative to Greyhound, the Chinatown Bus was the way to go. However, there isn’t exactly one Chinatown Bus. Rather, there are a few bus lines that go from Chinatown D.C. to Chinatowns in Philadelphia, New York, and Boston.
Cost for one-way: $1 to $35
Destinations: Philadelphia, PA; Atlantic City, NJ; , New York, NY; Boston, MA
Departs D.C. From: H St. NW, between 7th and 8th
Nearest Metro Stops: Gallery Place-Chinatown and Metro Center
BoltBus
The BoltBus is actually a collaboration between the Greyhound and Peter Pan bus lines. Along with it’s competitor MegaBus it offers free Wi-Fi to passengers. It also offers power outlets at most seats (a feature MegaBus is still working on on many of its buses).
Cost for one-way: $1 to $25
Destinations: New York
Departs D.C. From: 10th St. & H St. NW (North of 700 10th St. NW at the Old Convention Center parking lot)
North of 700 10th St. NW at the Old Convention Center parking lot Washington, DC 20005
Nearest Metro Stops: Gallery Place-Chinatown and Metro Center
MegaBus
MegaBus is BoltBus’ competition. It too has Wi-Fi. It too has fares that start at $1. It’s slightly set apart in the fact that many of MegaBus buses are double-deckers. This allows for more riders, which can be a good or a bad thing.
Cost for one-way: $1 to $25
Destinations: New York
Departs D.C. From: 9th Street & H Street, NW, parking lot
Nearest Metro Stops: Gallery Place-Chinatown and Metro Center
Vamoose
Vamoose has fewer frills (i.e. no Wi-Fi) than MegaBus or BoltBus. And while it doesn’t offer $1 tickets, its $30 price is comparable to what you’re likely to get on the other buses. Some riders will also prefer Vamoose’s pickup locations, in Arlington at the Rosslyn metro, and in Bethesda, Maryland.
Cost for one-way: $30
Destinations: Bethesda, MD and New York
Departs D.C. From: 1801 N Lynn St., Arlington VA
Nearest Metro Stop: Rosslyn
Now sing it with me! The wheels on the bus go….
Wilton’s Music Hall: an endangered gem
BY SHEYMA BUALI
The World Monument Fund has headlined Wilton’s Music Hall as Britain’s oldest music hall. It is also announced as “one of the 100 most endangered sites in the world”. The building is comprised of a Victorian theater hall for performance events and a bar on the side. The history of it is immense, going back well over 200 years. For this, I had to go visit it.
Getting there, my friends and I were in awe of its raw standing. The bar, now reinstated as the Mahogany Bar, has been licensed since the 1780’s, but was most likely serving way before then. By the 1850’s John Wilton built the Victorian style theater right behind it at a time when performance entertainment wasn’t all that popular. Being so close to St. Katherine’s Docks, the space had a service to the community surrounding it. For one, it was the spot for dockyard men, bringing steel and iron into the country, to go for after work entertainment and drink. 
The name of the bar, the Mahogany, came for the fact that it had a unique build, made with the finest mahogany wood, only afforded by its relationship and proximity to the Docks. Though the bar has by now sadly been stripped of all evidence of this, a piece of that original, 150-year-old mahogany still hangs as a living reminder above the door into the foyer of the entrance.
The bar’s tradition of serving the community continued till the turn of the century, when it offered free meals to thousands of strikers a day during the first dockers’ strike of late 1800’s. Subsequently, in the 1930’s, it became the meeting point for the anti-fascist movement.
But by the 1950’s it was sold and used as a warehouse, leading to its semi-derelict status of today. Now, another 50 years later, the place is being run by a small staff that is sincerely concerned with the fate of the building. Following in the footsteps of a small group of entertainers and locals who started to campaign against the building’s demolition 1960’s, they are working at keeping the place alive and active.
In current years, the Hall has experienced somewhat of a revival with more plays being performed there pulling in big crowds. The bar, still holding that warm, English public house atmosphere is now functioning after a 50 year shutdown.
There is no desire to restore the theater to what its ‘original’ state would have been. That is in fact a threat that is being avoided. The issues with that vary in that the history goes so far back that a restoration would have to choose a single era in its past to hold onto and recreate. This would be an unfair and obtrusive move to a structure that has kept its aging walls and been allowed its natural course. One may ask why it is important to try and keep the original build, plaster and structure, arguing that perhaps the time for a new incarnation is here; but with a city such as London, and in fact this goes with any architectural relics, the value of the space is in the age that it has endured. There are many spaces we are surrounded by that have come and gone, changed with the times, or even faced the ill fate of being restored to a symbolic reformation of what it once was, only to create a façade of a single era in its history, but when a gem such as this still stands in it ongoing original-ness, it is something to protect in order to keep that value to it as it is, the culture of its history, alive and continuous.
Now, the hope is that it continues to serve the purpose it was built for that it has triumphantly continued to do through all this time, that is: being a performance hall. The Hall is a beautiful wonder to be in; watching a play there as they did in early Victorian times offers an affect that is its setting within its local historical culture. But the building itself holds such a raw beauty that it is impossible not to be in awe of.
Check the program, look deeper into its history, and figure out how you can be involved with the Hall at http://www.wiltons.org.uk/
Free film screenings take place once a month and the theater program is constantly renewing. One can also take a guided tour and hear particular stories that will bring about more questions about its 200 year past and social importance.
Spitalfields Market
BY SHEYMA BUALI
Now that Christmas is coming, everyone is out there searching for special, warm gifts and stocking stuffers. Spitalfields is, to me, by far the most amazing shopping experience in London. A sprawling market that starts at the official Spitalfields goes on and on and continues to grow towards the Up Market, and even leads into the Brick Lane market.
The first time I went to Spitalfields was some 8 years ago, which is nothing compared to other veterans of the market. At that time it was a place where people can find things that are made by fashion students and independent entrepreneurs. One can find quirky, fashionable, colourful, styling stuff. Today, you can still find those things, and more; the amazing thing has remained the same though is that every thing is unique.
My favourite thing about going over to Spitalfields and the Up Market is that most of the items one buys, one will buy from the person who made it. Prices are comparable to those on the high streets, but at the market, you’ll find things that are inspired by new trends and of which there are literally only a few pieces.
When going there, I have a few favourites that I like to visit. For example, there is ‘positive tees‘: This couple make designs for t-shirts that have a message of inspiration and hope. I bought my brother one with Mohammed Ali, the boxer, with a big “believe,” printed on it; in fact, a long the years, I may have bought one of each design he has. He makes them for women, men and little children as well as bibs with messages like “Future Giant” written on them. They are special in that they are printed on fair trade, cotton t-shirts and a portion of his profit goes to children’s charities.
Another special are the hand made items, like the bags by Moya, with their motto: Make Bags, Not War. Each bag is hand painted so there are no two alike. They come in all shapes and sizes, their canvas make are durable for various types of use. 
But though the shopping keeps people in there mesmerized like robots, hypnotized by the cool stuff, there is more to Spitalfields than that. Walking around chatting with the vendors about their crafts, about their business, about the situations of the world is a very communal experience. Most of the vendors are there week to week, Sunday being the most active day. But others are actually there every day. Seeing the world go by and interacting with it through their art, after all, most of them either sell collectables or stuff they have designed and made themselves. Or even just communicating like they are with me, it’s a whole different outlook that is presented through the individuals at the market.
As someone who frequents the market as much as I can, I still say that I love my Sundays at Spitalfields and what a savior that place has been for gift shopping.
Spitalfields and Up Market are most easily reached by Liverpool Street tube station.
Liberty: a place for movement in art and design
Liberty is a department store like any other around London. It is among the better known of the high-end stores but they seem to maintain an image of being the smaller, but more specialized one. I had never been in there though, so I never had an opinion either way. But when my friend was shopping for her wedding dress a few weeks ago, we went in for a bridal fitting.
I walked around to see their items, I guess what struck me was that there was a certain element in their designs that made their stuff colorful and contemporary but classic at the same time. When I looked into it one day after really noticing the size of the Tudor building that stands just as iconic-ally a part of the Liberty brand, I realized that it actually was once upon a time actually a meeting place for the pre-Raphaelite art movement and the store had a hand in introducing Art Nouveau to the English.
The store was first opened by a man actually named Arthur Liberty, a 31-year-old from Buckinghamshire. Seeking the exotic, he traveled the Asian east to find objets d’art and home items he would carry in a high-end designer store. After all, in 1875, the “exotic” was all the rage.
Eventually, influenced by his travels, he began to create his own patterns for fabrics for home ware and dresses. The store carried items such as Oriental rugs and bedding, as well as accessories from the Far East. Artists at the time were drawn to the shop’s avant-garde approach and eventually made it their local for discussions and get-togethers. The influence between Liberty and the Brotherhood on each other made them two parts of England’s Aesthetic Movement, bringing in the decadence of France and Italy.
By the 1890’s, Liberty’s adoption of Art Nouveau pushed it to becoming the style icon it is now. At that point, Liberty was credited as the support for its designers.
As a department store brand, they are still considered quite daring in their fashion and home ware innovations. Their recent merge of a clothing line with the art work of Rolling Stone guitarist – turned – painter, Ronnie Wood, drew a lot of attention, both good and bad, from both the fashion and art worlds. Who would’ve known that a department store could take the role of patron for art movements across 100 years?
Liberty is at the corner of the Regent Street and Great Marlborough Street at Oxford Circus.
Hotel Russell: design sibling of the Titanic
BY SHEYMA BUALI
Hotel Russell is a huge and obvious hotel situated at the east end of Russell Square. Located at the heart of the historical Bloomsbury district, it is surrounded by the University of London, just steps from the British Museum, and mere blocks from Tottenham Court Road. The square and Hotel, get their name from the long lineage of the Dukes and Earls of Bedford, whose last name was Russell.
The Hotel, as mentioned, is not by any means humble; it stands huge and red taking the entire side of the Square. Its ‘chateau’-esque magnitude, reminiscent of Victorian and German Renaissance architecture, adds to the impossibility of ever walking by this mammoth building without noticing it. What fascinates me about this hotel though, is not that sheer size or grandeur, but the fact that the interior of this grandeur is in fact the same as what was the Titanic. That is correct, that unsinkable ship that indeed ended up sinking leaving us, almost one-hundred years later, with numerous filmic, literary and other adaptations and an eerie mystery that can only be born of a Victorian era waterway vessel that went tragically wrong.
I am unsure if others share my enthusiasm in regards to this, but to me, it is a very interesting and well-kept secret. I actually question why it hasn’t been a publicized point. Perhaps the answer is unnecessary as what drew me is the fact that that detail isn’t so widely known, bringing the eeriness of the Titanic all the much closer.
The same designer, Charles Fitzroy Dolls, designed both, having been hired by the White Star Line, the company that owned both. It is said that both their public areas are nearly the same. Though the hotel was refurbished a few years ago, the main parts remain as they were: the high arch ceilings, the wood panels, marble columns and the majestic staircase.
The restaurant in the Hotel is said to have the closest proximity in terms of similarities. Perhaps that was why the restaurant, Fitzroy Doll’s, was named after the architect.
Fitzroy Doll's has the closest proximity in design and is named after the designer.
Either way, after knowing this, entering the Hotel Russell has a new layer of intrigue. Unsure about the details makes me want to find out more, all part of the allure and mystery of anything that has to do with what should have been the invincible Titanic.
Hotel Russell: 1-8 Russell Square, Bloomsbury, London, WC1B 5BE, UK
Foc You Twice – Barcelona at Night
While Barcelona is definitely not a city lacking in the area of night time activities, the plethora of locales in town leaves most adventurers with little knowledge as to what in fact is good, what is strictly popular, and what is complete and utter rubbish. Of course different tastes lead to a different choice of activities for anyone, but should you fall into a crowd that likes internationalism, we may just have the place for you.
This place is Gran Foc (Big Fire in Catalan), a place that is truly unique when it comes to Barcelona. Going on any night to Gran Foc you’ll instantaneously notice that as an establishment it is clearly international. However unlike the Brit pubs and certain un-named locales that strictly focus on the expat/tourist market, Gran Foc creates a focal point for the cosmopolitanism of Barcelona to centre itself around. On near any evening you’ll find a fine blend of Catalan’s, and ex-pats intermingling, which many who have lived here will tell you is something unique.
Notwithstanding, the establishment has three other things going for it.
1. If you’re a Barcelona local / expat or a mixture of the two, you’ll find that many of the professional, entrepreneurial, and social networking groups meet here – possibly because of the accommodating nature of the owner, Sander, towards these types of meetings.
2. You’ll also be delighted to know that this place has a social mandate to it, where a portion of all proceeds go towards African Aid, youll not only enjoy your time here but also know that you’re helping the less fortunate.
3. The food is quite good, and with a menu that let’s you chose anything from a “pica pica” to a hearty duck breast, and fillet, you’ll be sure of culinary 
satisfaction. But be sure to make a reservation as oftentimes the place gets quite full for dinner.
We would also recommend heading to Gran Foc on either a Wednesday or Thursday, where the locale holds it’s Brazilian and live Jazz & Blues nights respectively. That said we’re sure you’ll enjoy your time here and if around the Barceloneta area, why not check out Gran Foc’s older sister establishment, Foc, a great place for cocktails of all flavours and desires, and be sure to let Barcelona Foc You Twice.
- Gran Foc – C/ Roger de Lluria 23, Barcelona w/ Gran Via – Eixample
- Foc – Passeig Joan de Borbó 66, Barcelona – Barceloneta
Pocket-sized and Picture Perfect
Savour the delights of Seville
BY CHLOE CORBIN
When my friend suggested I visit Seville – a small city in southern Spain, I thought por qué? A community in the shadows of the large metropolises of Madrid, Barcelona and Granada, it struck me as a tourist’s afterthought. I was soon to discover how wrong I was.
Famous for sun, orange groves and narrow streets – I went in search of the city for its language. I had just left a long-term job in London to pursue my dream of learning Spanish. And so I found myself in the centre of Seville – living for a month, with a sprightly Spanish senora.
Seville is a city overflowing with colour, energy and noise. It is as if Diego Velazquez stretched his paint palette across the bright blue canvas of the sky. It was his birthplace in 1599 and where his talent was first noticed. Narrow cobbled streets break up this chaotic maze of multi-coloured houses. They were built close together to provide shade from the sun which can reach over 40°C in the summer. Large wooden doors guard their entrances, and delicate iron balconies watch over the streets.
Most residences have large roof terraces or azoteas – which run across the top of entire buildings. These are communal spaces and are mainly used for hanging washing. But they also provide a visual feast of urban living – a sight I could never grow tired of. From this vantage point – noises from all corners of the city jostle to be heard. Church bells clash with guitar strings and the yells of builders’ sporadically drown out the laughter of small children.
And squashed between the cafes, tapas bars, buskers and speedy Spanish conversation – are Seville’s cultural wonders. And there are many. The Cathedral, the Giralda, Alcazar, Plaza de Espana, Museo del Bellas Artes, and the area of Santa Cruz. During my time in Seville I wiled away hours exploring these historical gems. Thankfully the size of the city means that even if time is precious – you will still see many of them.
Combining culture with food was a necessity for me in Seville. With every corner yielding a new chunk of history, tapas 
became my fuel. Nearly every bar or café serves these delicious snacks throughout the day. It’s a dish synonymous with Spanish culture. And once surrounded by a variety of foods and sipping on a tinto de verano (“wine of the summer” – red wine with ice and soda water) you start to feel like a true Sevillian.
And like every native, after a couple of weeks I too was keen to leave behind the tourists and experience Seville’s authenticities. And where better than at Charco de la Pava – the city’s largest outdoor flea market.
Overflowing with people, produce and noise – it is a must see. With not a tourist in sight, you can happily chat to locals, bargain with vendors and enjoy typically Sevillian foods – such as churros (similar to a waffle, you dip it in warm chocolate), roasted sweet chestnuts and plump naranjas.
After exploring the city – my favourite place to relax was The Alameda. A collection of bars, tapas joints and restaurants nestle around the plaza. Fountains, dogs, bikes and laughter accompany this scene. There are often impromptu live performances – or groups of skaters racing through its centre. Whether you dive into one of its busy haunts or retreat to a restaurant terrace to quietly observe – it is impossible not to be enticed by this typically Sevillian spectacle.
Camden: History, Markets and Distinct Character
BY: SHEYMA BUALI
Camden Town, to many, alludes to the grittiness of north London punk. When one says Camden, one may think of the village with tattoo parlours lining the streets inhabited by people with pink hair and steel toe boots – but then again, someone else might say that that is so 10 years ago!
The main attraction in Camden, that which attracted all the colourful people in the first place, would be the market. Its history is now more than 35 years old, but the infrastructure had been laid there for well over 200 years. The Town grew directly from the trade history that went with the build of the area, then developed even more by the direct focus on the production and sales of crafts.
The Earl of Camden developed the area starting in the 1790’s. Regents Canal’s run through Camden Town was designed to connect to the Thames River and the Paddington Canal; its purpose was to transport goods into, through, and out of London. With that came the development of the warehouses surrounding it.
About 150 years later, road transport started to develop and the canals’ use started to decline. Having to re-think the use of the spaces surrounding the waters, landowners and leasers started to gear it towards more commercial use. By the 1970’s, three young men rented out some of the old warehouses on the banks and turned them into studios. Camden Lock turned into a Sunday market where artists were encouraged to sell their work. Attracting both artists wanting to produce and visitors eager to see and buy, Camden started to become more and more populated.
Since then, the commerce of craft in the area grew. All the history meshed to make it what it is today: three major markets spread out connecting into each other like a maze along Camden High Street, between the Chalk Farm and Camden Town tube stops.
Other structures lent themselves to other purposes, such as the stables surrounding the water vein of Camden. Among them is the Stables Market, with unique t-shirts, ethnic crafts, vintage clothes, rock and roll memorabilia, food from all corners of the world, and so much more going on going round and around. Two other structures originally serving as horse stables, have also been converted into gallery halls with bars and food service and a space for live entertainment: try the historic Dingwalls’ Gallery and the more recent, Proud Camden.
Another building that retains its magnificent old architecture is the Market Hall. Opened in 1991, it is another structure opened as a modern indoor market arcade. It was celebrated for its Victorian glass roof and fitting respect for the architecture surrounding it. 
Finally, the third major component of the ever-sprawling Camden Market is the Camden Lock Market. Just overlooking the Canal, it is a place to find other crafts made of fabric such as aprons, pillow cases, baby bibs and hammocks, artistic prints, glass crafts, novelty items, handmade and imported jewelry, and so on. It’s like an ongoing gallery of unique objects of all kinds, easy to spend hours just looking at the patterns, shapes and cuts going on.
With all that said, the great thing is that chain stores are not allowed in the vicinity. It’s amazing that the area retains its original infrastructure from 200 years ago. A minor change is that the areas surrounding the waterway have been remolded into seats so people can spend afternoon, evening or days along there. Weekends supposedly host 150,000 people making for an active people-watching session. Camden is great in that it is among the areas of London that diagram the city’s ever-changing urban and commercial construct.
Cinephelia: for the love of movies
BY SHEYMA BUALI
Easing off the London Film Festival, having a light lunch and coffee at Cinephelia, I realized it is not just a place where the audience gaze comes alive; it is in fact where a growing family of movie lovers can be certain they can share their high regard for the art of cinema.
A bookstore with two branches, it’s a difficult one to fully describe because the concept continues to grow. The first one, opened a year ago, is a quaint and small but fully packed bookstore in London’s east end. The second, a mere two months old, is a pristine gallery, eco-friendly café and reading room with free WiFi. They are the official book carriers of Wallflower Press, the cinema art and studies book publisher (which mean their books are sold here at in-house rates.)
books on all genres
Carrying books from other publishers just as well, topics run the gamut through all genres, regions, and levels of study, practice and critique. Their DVD selection is one to really motivate one’s interest in the world of cinema, coming from home-entertainment distributions companies that support the independent and art house and institutions that commission collectables. Being in either bookstore (east or west end), visitors are encouraged to stick around, get comfortable and flip through old movie magazines.
And there is a warm and open invitation to start a friendship, if not with the movie-buff staff running the place, definitely with their topicality. The east-end bookstore allows people to borrow books from the lending pile. While in the west-end, a cinema club is slowly but intensely coming underway. For 10 pounds a month, members have free access, with a friend, to attend weekly screenings, discussions and Q&A’s with filmmakers, theorists, critics and others.
The relationship with the publishing house guarantees that there is always an event that will be of a scholarly standard. In their first month open, they had already had an evening of discussion between film and culture academic Sophie Mayer and film director Sally Potter. The talk coincided with the recent release of Potter’s film Rage starring Judi Dench, Jude Law, and Diane Wiest, and recent release of Mayer’s book on Potter as a feminist filmmaker and performer, an Oscar-nominated director, and her role in digital cinema.
reading room
Meanwhile, the gallery is exhibiting Polish film posters: a rare and beautiful collection of movie relics. The unique art of Polish posters is one that grew into being a very important outlet for artists. They combined influences and techniques from Constructivism, Futurism and Surrealism and the disciplines of architects, painters and printmakers. By the 1960’s, poster artists preferred, rather than placing obvious symbols of the movie they were depicting like stars and such, to create their visual interpretation through the film’s themes. Of the films depicted in posters on display right now are those by directors such as Stanley Kubrick, David Lynch and Akira Kurosawa among many others.
Though the space is open to the public, evening film events are unfortunately open only to members. The reason for this format is to keep the commercial aspect of the cinema experience null. Rather than an event of anonymity where one pays to enter for a single night, one can come in knowing they are part of a movie lover’s network, where people committed to the art take part week after week.
Having gone to enjoy their movie-clad setting for a quick meal, I left having learned quite a few new things from their displays. To me, this place breeds curiosity and the desire to be more involved in the complex and romantic world of movies. They definitely spread the love for cinema and invite you to do the same: cinephile to cinephile. 
Cinephelia East: 97 Sclater Street, off Brick Lane, London E1 6HR
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/east/ go to the site for a virtual tour of bookstore
Cinephelia West: 171 Westbourne Grove, London W11 2RS
http://www.cinephilia.co.uk/west/ go to the site for a tour, info on upcoming events and Cinephelia member benefits
Day of the Dead in Barcelona?
The Day of the Dead is one of the most entrenched and traditional festivities of Mexico. A night where the living and the dead share regrets, memories, hopes, aspirations and ideals. A meeting where they touch the mortality of living with the immortality of the dead. The Day of the Dead celebrations begin on 31 October with the start of an offering in each house and the arrival of the souls of the children – “Muerte Chiquita” -. The next morning, on 1 November, reaching the souls of adults, and on November 2, after the mixing of live and dead, with 12 bells announced that the dead are gone. During that day the family clean the graves of their loved ones in cemeteries, and decorated with white flowers for children and adults yellow flowers, and lit incense and candles to light his way back. The families live together during this celebration, and food served, they exchange gifts and take music. This concludes this holiday, possessing a touch of joy and unity to build a bridge between life and death, between the present and the past.
The celebration has its roots in pre-Columbian world, where the concept of death was not associated with a matter of reward (heaven) or punishment (hell), as in Christianity. The pre-Hispanic man viewed the death as a process rather in a constant cycle of life and not as tragic. Mictlan, was a place reserved for those who died by natural death regardless of their status.
With various indigenous roots and incorporating pre-Hispanic Catholic vision, joined two worlds and two profoundly different concepts, resulting in the way we traditionally celebrated in Mexico on All Souls Day.
WHAT TO DO?
1. CONSULATE GENERAL OF MEXICO IN BARCELONA
Paseo de la Bonanova, 55
From 30 October to 5 November (closed on November 1)
Visiting hours Monday through Friday from 9 to 14.
Opening: Wednesday, October 31 from 19:30 to 21:30
- Traditional Mexican altar and exhibit on the Day of the Dead. The public is welcome to participate, and the altar placed in the name or photograph of their deceased loved ones, as a gift.
- Altar and offering – Altar dedicated to traditional Mexican various public figures.
- Cardboard skeletons – In cardboard skeletons made popular topics staged in honor of Mexican painter Diego Rivera, made by the Day School 295 “Pradillo Guillermo Prieto of Mexico.
- Exhibition of Catrinas – Exposure of catrinas As I see, you see … craft consists of a collection of 23 pieces from the Mexican region of Michoacan.
- Photographic collection of the Delegation Tláhuac and other Mexican
2. BARBIER-MUELLER PRE-COLUMBIAN ART BARCELONA
c / Montcada, 14
Day of the Dead Altar
From October 30 to November 4, 2007
Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday from 11 to 19 hrs. Saturdays from 10 to 19 hrs. Sundays and holidays from 10 to 15 hrs.
Inauguration: 30 October at 19:00 h
- Altar dedicated to Frida Kahlo, by the Botiga of the Barbier-Mueller d’Art Columbian and Drink Pecanins set designer, with the collaboration of the Barbier-Mueller d’Art in Barcelona and Chocolates Precolombí Blasi.
3. ART GALLERY – BEASKOA
c / Montacer, 16
www.gcanog.com
Exhibition altar and offerings
From 27 October to 4 November
Visiting hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 11 to 14 hrs and 16:30 to 20 hrs.
Inauguration: 30 October at 19:30 hrs.
- The contemporary Mexican artists Ximena Pérez Grobet and Gabriela Cano, have two pieces of dead conceptual offerings. Altar dedicated outdoor display of the Mexican intellectual Salvador Moreno.
4. VINÇON
Paseo de Gracia, 96
Main showcase dedicated to the Day of the Dead
From 25 October to 4 November
- Altar done by the artist Gabriela Cano, in the window of the store Prinicpal Vinçon Barcelona.
But most importantly – enjoy! 
A Second Date with New York City
BY MARY POLLOCK
Freeman Alley
On a first trip to New York: the list of places to explore is long and often inspired by the glamour first encountered with the likes of Holly Golightly and Carrie Bradshaw. But when so much of New York demands our attention the best bits are easily missed. One visit to the city is never enough, so if it pulls you back again: here are some places you may have left to conquer…
CULTURE
If you head South down 5th Avenue from the Metropolitan Museum of Art, you will reach The Frick Collection on the corner of East 70th St. This mansion turned museum, houses the collection of Henry Clay Frick (1849-1919) a robber-barron of lesser known stature than Andrew Carnegie but with similar ideals. The collection includes pieces from the Renaissance to the late 19th century as well as works by Johannes Vermeer, Rembrandt van Rijn, El Greco, Thomas Gainsborough and Giovanni Bellini among numerous others. The collection is manageable for those art lovers who feel like museums have one too many floors and the space brings a unique perspective to the works of the Old Masters.
COCKTAILS AND LIQOUR
While The Frick has evolved only ever so slightly over the last 90 years, the Plaza Hotel has seen significant changes in the last two. Although the famous Hotel has been replaced with apartments and shops, thankfully, the Oak Room has survived the transformation. This bar and restaurant always reminds me of my grandmother complaining that men don’t wear their jackets into the city anymore. Although expensive, if you’ve seen any episodes of Mad Men, you will surely pay for a taste of old New York.
Thankfully downtown things get a little trendier (although, no less expensive). Little Branch the lesser-known creation of Sasha Petraske the man behind Milk & Honey, has incredible cocktails served in a relaxed environment. A live jazz band is playing most days, and when ordering from the bar, one only needs to suggest their liqour of choice and let the bartender do the rest. This subterranean West village hangout makes for a wonderful evening, but only if you can find the secretive front door!
HOTELS
Most hotel options will put you in mid-town a short walk from Time Square and Central Park; but I recommend staying downtown so you can wonder home from the village without a cab fare. The Ace Hotel New York, recently opened on the corner of 29th and Broadway. This boutique hotel brand operates under the mantra of everything you need and nothing more. Inexpensive and seeped in a bohemian hipster style, if you don’t call this hotel home, the lobby alone is worth a visit.
RESTAURANTS
Within the Ace Hotel building, the Michelin starred minds behind The Spotted Pig are working on their second restaurant: The Breslin. This restaurant has not opened yet; however if you’re downtown for dinner and cannot wait two hours for a table (the Spotted Pig takes no reservations and has no shortage of diners), the list of restaurants to try is overwhelming to say the least. Tucked away down Freeman’s alley off Rivington Street, you’ll find Freemans Restaurant, which serves rustic American food in the old world tradition. Tourists will be in the minority here. And if it’s late, try the Blue Ribbon Brasserie in SoHo; the restaurant for restaurant people, open until 4:00am.
Another NY dining institution not to be missed is brunch on the weekends. Wake up late on Saturday and Sunday and spend the afternoon having the best meal of the day. Schiller’s and Freemans serve a brunch worthy of the rather long time it takes to get a table. And if you need a little less noise then head to Rue B a ten minute walk uptown. The lower east side is dotted with restaurants that have the newspapers waiting for you and an endless supply of Bloody Mary’s for the afternoon ahead.
BROOKLYN AND FLEA MARKETS
When dinner (or brunch) leaves you strapped for cash, hop on the M or R train to the Brooklyn Flea Market open every weekend. Don’t be intimidated by the prospect of a new borough or the throngs of hipsters: flea markets are always worth a browse. If Brooklyn intrigues you further; go for a stroll down Bedford Avenue in Williamsburg. Although only one stop on the L train from Manhattan, Williamsburg has a very different attitude and there are plenty of boutiques, cafes and vintage shops to fill an afternoon.
The last time I was in New York, the first portion of the High Line had just opened, an abandoned over ground railway that has been turned into a park. However, walking is often the best way to get to know any city and New York is no exception. The walk between the Meatpacking district and Chelsea is particularly enlightening.
Every time I come back to New York, I discover something new (or see a familiar neighbourhood from a new perspective). If you are planning a trip to NY, check out Time Out New York and Urban Daddy NYC to find out what’s hip and happening during your visit. There is never a shortage of galleries, performances and parties. And, soon you may be like me, and never want to leave!
Parisian Markets: A Dying Art?
BY SOFIA NEBIOLO
Once a symbol of Paris, the open air markets, seem to have less and less of a presence. Although they still exist! I SWEAR. I stress to you, lets keep the market alive. Allow your eyes, ears and nose experience the explosion of smells and colors within a four-meter radius, a feeling unlike any other.
The emergence of the ready to eat generation has played a great roll in the style in which we eat and obtain our food. With the expansion of Carrefour and Monoprix throughout Paris the accessibility of produce is much easier. But we are talking about the experience here, aren’t we? From fresh brie to delectable homemade pasta the possibilities are endless. The joys of the markets are the interactions, this is lost among the aisles of the big cold supermarket. There are still famous markets that exsist and can be found throughout Paris.
Just last weekend I found myself amidst the crowds at Marche des Enfants Rouges. Named after the red uniform worn by the children who used to live in the former orphanage located here, it is one of the oldest markets in Paris, and has now become quite the place to grab a delicious yet reasonable brunch. There are about seven different cuisines to dine on each having at least four or more wooden tables and benches. From Lebanese, Italian, Japanese and Cajun, your mouth will be watering. The atmosphere is hectic and alive, bringing you back to the real roots of Paris.
Marché des enfants rouges
Open Tuesday-Saturday 8.30am – 1pm and 4pm-7.30pm; Sunday 8.30am-2pm.
39 rue de Bretagne, 3rd
Metro Arts-et-Métiers or Temple
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